Help understanding 2 different coils

[Crispycritters]

Oh, yeah, Im aware of different wire properties and such, thats why i was asking.

Thank you tho, now i am even more aware, it was the cotton to wire ratio paragraph that u were referring to

In retrospect I realised I misunderstood your question JD...

I recommended dual 26/36 Ni80 coils with 9 wraps purely because it is a build I use frequently on series mechs. Although Ni80 is lower in resistance than Kanthal, using 9 wraps to raise the resistance to around the 0.60 ohms a pair ballpark means the coils have sufficient mass to cope with 8.4 Volt, won't overstress the batteries and spools of Ni80 26/36 are easy to source.,

Another build I use for 8.4 Volts series is a pair of 8 wrap KA1 24/32 Claptons. Less wraps and higher resistance metal, but with a thicker core wire - but from experience, although I find them large enough to cope with 8.4 Volts they work out at 0.50 Ohms a pair which is a lower resistance starting point for a series mech user than I am comfortable recommending. You could add a few wraps to each coil to raise the resistance of course, but the width of the resulting coils may make them impossible to fit inside most RDAs.

If someone were to use a large 30mm RDA on a mech I'd probably recommend the Kanthal 24/32 as I'm confident the very large multiwrap coils will fit inside, but as I'm not sure of the RDA I'll recommend the smaller gauge Ni80 26/36 build as I know from experience it will fit in most 24mm RDAs and larger.

And I'm biased - I like Ni80 lol.

 

[CloudMasta69]

No - if you remove one battery you will be getting 4.2 volts max, instead of 8.4 volts.

If you try again with your original 0.30 ohms coils, to use ohms law - 4.2V divided by 0.30 ohms = 14. So they will pull a max of 14 Amps which will not overstress your batteries. However 14 x 4.2 = 58.8 so theoretically you will get a 58.8 Watt Vape, however with voltage drop/battery sag you will probably only get 50 Watts tops.

If you look at my earlier post you will see 8.4V and 0.30 ohms give 200 Watts, but 4.2V will only give 50 Watts. Halving the Voltage does NOT halve the resulting Wattage of the vape. You MUST use Ohms Law to check the resulting current draw from the batteries (Amps) and the resulting Wattage and time you use a different option of Voltage or Resistance to stay safe. Guessing leads to accidents,

Those bulky 0.30 ohm coils you have will take forever to heat up with 50 watts and will give a cold and miserable vape, so that's a no go.

Please don't take chances, put it away until you have sussed ohms law - I recommend you watch Battery Mooch's channel on you tube, the mind your mahs series is essential viewing. I watch it periodically just to refresh my memory even though I feel I am knowledgeable enough to use mechs safely.

Don't buy any more coils until you are confident you know what you are doing, don't assume anything - always check, and always glow your coils on a REGULATED device as the resistance is often much lower than stated until the coils are glowed and bedded in.

Don't chance anything or you may set fire to yourself or your house. Sorry bud, mechs are fcn dangerous in inexperienced hands. Take your time and check EVERYTHING first (including your battery wraps are intact and insulators are in place) before you hit that fire button, or very bad things will happen.

Aye! Im still here and have not blown myself to pieces!

I ended up going out and getting some (what i was told was) alien claptons 0.6 but to me they look like regular fused claptons.

Since my last coils were made and sent to me and built on by a ”professional”, i thought i might replicate the looks of his. So I took some thin tool and stuck it in the coil head and spun the ends about 3 times to get me a total of 8 wraps (instead of original 5).

Ended up having less wire to put through the contacts in the rda, but with a little fiddle and twist i got them in and screwed in.

Then proceeded to use 1 battery instead eventhough its slow and doesnt vape good obviously, but safer and takes longer to heat up. Eventually when i get them heated and done i stuff in the other battery as well for usage and vaping!

Against all odds and a bit of vape brain cells, I did it and didnt blow up to the moon!
The question is now… The worse thing that has happened so far is that those small trash MTL coils i got in the beginning obviously just popped right away when firing the mod… so what stupid dumb mistake would it take to pop the batteries and lose half my face?

(fyi im only moving between what i know is safe for my build right now and its 0.22-0.3 builds and im using fairly new Samsung 30t batts)

 

[Crispycritters]

Aye! Im still here and have not blown myself to pieces!

I ended up going out and getting some (what i was told was) alien claptons 0.6 but to me they look like regular fused claptons.

Since my last coils were made and sent to me and built on by a ”professional”, i thought i might replicate the looks of his. So I took some thin tool and stuck it in the coil head and spun the ends about 3 times to get me a total of 8 wraps (instead of original 5).

Ended up having less wire to put through the contacts in the rda, but with a little fiddle and twist i got them in and screwed in.

Then proceeded to use 1 battery instead eventhough its slow and doesnt vape good obviously, but safer and takes longer to heat up. Eventually when i get them heated and done i stuff in the other battery as well for usage and vaping!

Against all odds and a bit of vape brain cells, I did it and didnt blow up to the moon!
The question is now… The worse thing that has happened so far is that those small trash MTL coils i got in the beginning obviously just popped right away when firing the mod… so what stupid dumb mistake would it take to pop the batteries and lose half my face?

(fyi im only moving between what i know is safe for my build right now and its 0.22-0.3 builds and im using fairly new Samsung 30t batts)

What I find disturbing about what you have written is you didn't mention checking the resistance or checking for hotspots, strumming and bedding the coils in on a regulated device before firing them on your mech. Hopefully you did this before you put them on your mech, regardless of if you used it with one battery or two.

Adding extra wraps will raise the resistance - but don't use any 'thin tool', you are better off using a dedicated coil rod of the same thickness as the inner diameter of the coils so the wraps are consistent or you may get hot spots or areas inside the coil that are not in contact with cotton - which will be unpleasant in flavour at best, or may lead to you popping more coils if areas overheat.

Any stupid mistake can cause the batteries to go nuclear, damaged wraps, missing insulators, post screws not tightened properly or simply not checking the resistance and bedding them in before use.

Do yourself a favour, recheck everything on a regulated mod and spend a few hours watching Battery Mooch's Channel 'minding your mahs' - it contains a lot of essential knowledge suitable for all vapers, and essential for mech users. As things are I think you need to spend some time researching before you continue using your mech in either 4.2 or 8.4 mode.

Edit - higher resistances than 0.30 ohms will also be safe (and not as hot) don't assume you must build low - use ohms law to check the resistance and the Amp draw first. You also didn't mention if you did this or just twisted and guessed.

 

[Jd_]

.
Hey mate, just if anything happens make sure to upload us the cool pics of the exploded batteries.

 

[speedfreek67]

Always, ALWAYS, A L W A Y S

Build and bed in your coils on a regulated device. How can you test the resistance otherwise? Start at low wattage and glow the coils, strumming and raking them to get rid of any hotspots. Once you have the coils glowing evenly from the centre outwards, test the build with the top cap on to make sure there isn't a short between the coils and the top cap somewhere (which can causing a going BOOM sitatuion).

Why a regulated to test on? Because it will tell you if you have a short circuit somewhere and refuse to fire. You won't get that information testing your build on a mech - you'll just get a short circuit, possibly (depending on the nature of the short) sending far more amps than your batteries are rated for through the coil, damaging the coil and the batteries. It can cause either an autofire situation, or a situation where when you press the button you are short circuiting the batteries!!!

Bad coil position can cause a short. A roughly cut coil leg can cause a short.

You know that ultra thin wire that wraps around the coil (the clapton wire)? If a tiny off-cut trimming of that gets into your deck and bridges across the insulator YOUR BUILD CAN GO BOOM.

Battery safety. How good are your wraps? Is there any chance of a tiny slit somewhere on your battery wrap? Do you check them? That is another potential situation for a short and BOOM!!

If you don't know all this then you should not be using a mechanical device AND CERTAINLY NOT A SERIES MECH!

 

[CloudMasta69]

What I find disturbing about what you have written is you didn't mention checking the resistance or checking for hotspots, strumming and bedding the coils in on a regulated device before firing them on your mech. Hopefully you did this before you put them on your mech, regardless of if you used it with one battery or two.

Adding extra wraps will raise the resistance - but don't use any 'thin tool', you are better off using a dedicated coil rod of the same thickness as the inner diameter of the coils so the wraps are consistent or you may get hot spots or areas inside the coil that are not in contact with cotton - which will be unpleasant in flavour at best, or may lead to you popping more coils if areas overheat.

Any stupid mistake can cause the batteries to go nuclear, damaged wraps, missing insulators, post screws not tightened properly or simply not checking the resistance and bedding them in before use.

Do yourself a favour, recheck everything on a regulated mod and spend a few hours watching Battery Mooch's Channel 'minding your mahs' - it contains a lot of essential knowledge suitable for all vapers, and essential for mech users. As things are I think you need to spend some time researching before you continue using your mech in either 4.2 or 8.4 mode.

Edit - higher resistances than 0.30 ohms will also be safe (and not as hot) don't assume you must build low - use ohms law to check the resistance and the Amp draw first. You also didn't mention if you did this or just twisted and guessed.

Hey man! Love your dedication to inform me! I will check those things out!
I based my usage on what was written on my coils package which was 0.45 ohms so no testing was done here.

Anything you do in this world could go wrong. I could sit there and cook some up some food and the oven could blow up!

Always, ALWAYS, A L W A Y S

Build and bed in your coils on a regulated device. How can you test the resistance otherwise? Start at low wattage and glow the coils, strumming and raking them to get rid of any hotspots. Once you have the coils glowing evenly from the centre outwards, test the build with the top cap on to make sure there isn't a short between the coils and the top cap somewhere (which can causing a going BOOM sitatuion).

Why a regulated to test on? Because it will tell you if you have a short circuit somewhere and refuse to fire. You won't get that information testing your build on a mech - you'll just get a short circuit, possibly (depending on the nature of the short) sending far more amps than your batteries are rated for through the coil, damaging the coil and the batteries. It can cause either an autofire situation, or a situation where when you press the button you are short circuiting the batteries!!!

Bad coil position can cause a short. A roughly cut coil leg can cause a short.

You know that ultra thin wire that wraps around the coil (the clapton wire)? If a tiny off-cut trimming of that gets into your deck and bridges across the insulator YOUR BUILD CAN GO BOOM.

Battery safety. How good are your wraps? Is there any chance of a tiny slit somewhere on your battery wrap? Do you check them? That is another potential situation for a short and BOOM!!

If you don't know all this then you should not be using a mechanical device AND CERTAINLY NOT A SERIES MECH!

Can i test my coils on an Alien 220w regulated mod? with two 18650 batteries? And if it doesnt go boom im good to go?

Will the regulated device tell me what ohms/resistence i have on the coils?

 

[speedfreek67]

Can i test my coils on an Alien 220w regulated mod? with two 18650 batteries? And if it doesnt go boom im good to go?

Yes, you can.

Will the regulated device tell me what ohms/resistence i have on the coils?

Yes, it has a readout on the screen showing the resistance. Note that there will be a difference between the resistance when you first install the coils, and the resistance after glowing them and getting rid of the hotspots. In order to see it, you will probably have to remove the atty and screw it back on, whereupon the mod should detect the new resistance and give you a "old/new coil" message. Also, remember to test the build with the top cap on (to check for shorts) before wicking it.

 

[Crispycritters]

Hey man! Love your dedication to inform me! I will check those things out!
I based my usage on what was written on my coils package which was 0.45 ohms so no testing was done here.

Anything you do in this world could go wrong. I could sit there and cook some up some food and the oven could blow up!

Can i test my coils on an Alien 220w regulated mod? with two 18650 batteries? And if it doesnt go boom im good to go?

Will the regulated device tell me what ohms/resistence i have on the coils?

Your oven, even if it is old, was built to safety standards. With mech mods you are the safety standard as mechs have zero built in protection.

Yes your cooker may blow up if you are extremely unlucky - but the chance of you having your cooker in your mouth when things go unfortunate are slim. Chemical burns aren't fun.

Yes, your Smok Alien will be ideal for building on, and it will also show you the ohms/resistance , or if you have a short - and as @speedfreek67 clearly said (and I overlooked) check your build AGAIN with the cap fitted after bedding in the coils as the coils may touch the inside of the cap and short. You need to check this before fitting it on your mech. You've got a regulated device - please use it.

 

[MrDJ]

members only have your safety at heart. so just to put all the above warnings into prospective.
https://theecigflavourium.com/en/ecig-hardware/369-smok-e-mountain-vanilla-brass.html#
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/ar...ed-vaping-pen-explodes-penetrating-brain.html

 

[CloudMasta69]

Essentially - because many users who prefer series mech mods like high power levels the professionally made 'series coils' tend to be low enough in ohms so they won't overstress the batteries but still provide a VERY high wattage vape..

If you use ohms law and figure out what 8.4 Volts divided by 0.30 Ohm is you will come up with 28. Which means they will pull 28 Amps of current so you will be safe with a pair of good 21700 Batteries like the 30 Amp Molicel P42s or 35 Amp Samsung 30Ts.

Unfortunately to figure out the watts you will be vaping at you multiply the Amps by the Voltage. In this case 28 x 8.4 = 235.2. In reality there will be some inevitable voltage drop so in reality you will be getting something like a 200 Watt Vape.

The reason you find the vape OK for half a second but then unbearably hot is that the coils will take half a second to heat up - once they do reach temperature they will be HOT.

You are on the right track by assuming you need to go higher in resistance to get a cooler vape that is more manageable, I suggest you start with a 0.60 ohm build as this will be approximately half the wattage of the 0.30 ohm coils you found too hot. The problem you may experience is actually finding coils that are 1.20 ohms that aren't pissy little things designed for MTL. The second pair of coils you bought may be the same resistance as the first pair, but they have insufficient mass to cope with such high power - that is one reason they didn't last, the other is you probably tried to be them in by throwing the full power of your mech at them, which is too much too soon. What I suggest is you buy a spool of premade Ni80 26/36 gauge Clapton Wire and make two nine wrap coils around a 3mm internal diameter coiling rod. This will give you a pair of coils that together will work out in the 0.60 ohms ballpark, but are large enough to cope with 8.4 volts from the batteries. Any pair of 1.2 ohm coils WON'T work and piddly sized MTL coils will just pop instantly.

The only other problem you will have then is you need to glow the coils and strum out hot spots - and you really DON'T want to do this on your mech as you don't need to glow them at full power (if you do any hot spots may cause the coils to melt and pop - as you have already found to your expense) - so you need a dual battery regulated mod to glow them on, normally people use build tabs for this but when it comes to large high ohm coils single 18650 build tabs simply can't provide high enough power so I really think you ought to save your money and spend it on a suitable mod rather than a build tab that will be incapable of giving any more than about 4 Volts max.

If you don't understand what I have written I recommend you put your mech mod away, and buy a regulated mod if you don't already have one (dual battery if possible so it can be used later to bed in coils for your series mech when you decide you have acquired the knowledge to use it safely).

Sorry bud, but mech mods aren't forgiving and accidents can turn nasty fast. Until you are confident you know what you are doing, put it away until you have done some research. Better safe than sorry.

I forgot to ask buddy but where can i find prebuilt 1.2 single coils that aren’t just some pissy mtl coils? Any website? Any seller from EU?

Second question…
I contacted a guy locally that makes series builds (aliens specifically)which equals to 0.3 ohms and he refuses to make me something around 0.5-0.6 (what you suggested for me) ohms since in his opinion, series builds are supposed to be vaped at 0.3 and lower.

I dont agree with his nonsense talk and you seem more relevant. Why is it that he wont make me any coil builds higher than 0.3 for my series? Is there any danger invloved over that range? Or is it just his greed and pride to try to make me look stupid for asking for a build that high?

Thank you