Mech mod help

[possiblevaper]

Not really a new user but this is deffo a noob question.

Thinking of getting a mech mainly because i am thinking of getting a kayfun lite and it just won't look right on what I have (mvp, itaste vv). I am more comfortable with "non mechanical" mods but they are all too tall (vamo,zmax,provari,etc) so that leaves me with a mech in 18350 mode (really love the size and form factor of these) and with a kayfun on them they aren't too big, really don't want a lightsabre.

So I was wondering if someone could give me a quick run down on batteries with the whole protected/unprotected, imr, effest. I haven't got a clue basically, why are there some 18350 batteries with 700mah then some with 800 and 900mah, what's the flat top and button top all about? I'm completely lost in batteries here. A nemesis and a kayfun 3.1 clones are in my fasttech cart but I'm stuck on how to power the god damn thing.

I know I can quite easily stick a kayfun on my mvp but I can't find any pictures of what it will look like, I've only ever seen a kayfun on provaris or mech mods

 

[Raguri]

Right, I'm no expert. But. This is what I *THINK* is right... If i'm wrong, please tell me.
Mech mods should use protected cells, so the voltage does not go under the 'working' voltage, which means less risk of fire.
The amp limit of a battery is also bloody important. Most vv/vfw mods, have a 2.5amp limit... Therefore, aim to get a battery with AT LEAST a 5 amp limit... I use 10 to be on the safe side.
And most of all, care for them. Check the rubber bit outside, check the connections for damage etc etc.

Button/nipple top = _---_ < Like a normal AA battery
Flat top = _ -------_ << MUCH better personally, as a larger contact area... BUT, some mods hate them

I use Samsung ICR 18650 20B batteries used to power laptops, mainly as I know that the amp limit is stupidly higher than I'll ever need!

 

[KulrMeStoopid]

However DONT use normal AA batteries in these things They arent safest or strong enough!


Yes use protected batteries. Or invest in some safety fuses or a kick module.

 

[ebayhomepc]

Or go imr these are the best to use in my opinion

 

[Phantom Diablo]

essentially either IMR efext, torchy or AW. get 2 at least so ones on charge while ones in use and as for charger get a nitcore charger.
i got my charger and batteries from http://www.thebestshop.eu/shop/ based in ireland took about 4-5 days. good prices and good service cant fault em
dont get batteries and charger from FT. it wont get through singapore post as batteries cant be shipped.
the mah doesnt mean to much other than how long they will pwer for, though the lower mah ones tend to have a better C rating. which means higher amp usage so even more stable for low ohm coils
for instance the 2000 mah efst have a 5amp rating to 1500 from what im aware have a 10 amp rating so though they wont actually run for as many hours are better so im led to believe.

im sure someone more battery tech can confirm this on here though
as for flat top or nipple.. i have the nipple ones though i know there are one or two mods out there becuase of there size will only take the flat top, other than that i see no pro or con with them but prefer to use nipple topped ones.

 

[whit77]

Imr's simple, protective have a amp limit

 

[possiblevaper]

Think I need some physics/electricity lessons lol. So what factors determine the amps drawn? Amps is new to me, all I know is wattage, voltage and ohm/resistance. What amp are mvp's? I feel more lost haha, also what's imr stand for?

I'm also trying to get my head around the fact that these batteries only output 3.7volts but depending on the coil that could be 6,7,8,10 etc watts. I'm not sure I'm going to grasp this.

I just want the safest possible batteries that won't blow up if I put a 0.6ohm coil or 2ohm coil that gives a constant output. The last thing I want is to be worried constantly every time it gets hot that it will blow up.

 

[ebayhomepc]

OK I'm not explaining it all as I'm not 100% with everything but get some IMR chemistry they have higher amp limits but lower battery capacity and as far as I know they don't set on fire only vent.

With protected in my opinion they have a higher battery capacity but lower amp limit now they also have a more volatile chemistry then IMR even though they are protected under certain Circumstance's they can still blow/fire.


Your MVP has 2.3-2.5 amp limit.

.6ohm is 7amp on 4.2v
2.0ohm is2.1amp on 4.2v

When playing with mechs always calculate your ohm amp against your maximum battery charge which is 4.2v

Edit most of these batteries output a maximum of 4.2v but they tend to drop pretty quick depending on the brand etc to 3.7v.

 

[Phantom Diablo]

yes its confusing that batteries are listed as 3.7v but actually have a max charge around 4.2v. amps are calculated by the ohms over voltage

The C-Rating of the battery defines the maximum draw (in amps) that the battery is capable of. To calculate the max amp draw you need the C-Rating and the mAh of the battery. For example a 2000 mAh battery rated at 10C would be:
Max Amp Draw = (mAh / 1000) * C-Rating
(2000 / 1000) * 10 = 20 Amp Max Draw
Note: Running your batteries at their C-Rating will decrease the overall life of the battery.
The C-Rating also indicates the amount of time the battery can support that discharge rate. A 1 C battery can support the calculated draw continuously for 1 hour. 2 C would be 1/2 of an hour. 10C would be 1/10 of an hour.

the problem here lies in that very few manufacturers list the C rating.

full explanation here


http://tasteyourjuice.com/wordpress/battery-information/

wouldnt worry your head to much about it though, as long as you use IMR batteries you should be fine, and if in doubt you can always get a kick ( a small electrical add in that fits between battery and your atty and allows you to set the volatges

 

[ScottChensoda]

I'd best get my arse into gear. There are a lot of misconceptions about batteries and that ain't not safe.

For where you are now PV and until you become more conversant with what is probably the most involved and crucial subject in vaping, i.e. batteries, I think rather than get bogged down in technical details, albeit necessary ones, it might be best if you progress with bite sized pieces for now.

Basically, there are three types of vaping 1800 series batteries. ICR, which stands for Lithium-ion Cobalt Rechargeable. IMR, which stands for Lithium-ion Manganese Rechargeable and a fairly recent innovation from Panasonic, which although technically is of an ICR structure, they are in fact a combination of the two formats making them a hybrid if you like.

Now before Panasonic, you more or less had to choose between a market driven longer amp/hour ICR which is known to be of a volatile composition or a less volatile but safer, IMR battery. Safety was winning the day at long last.

An IMR battery will:

charge faster
discharge at a higher current
be safer
deliver higher amounts of power to the source,
but have lower overall capacity

Than an ICR battery.

However, the new Panasonic hybrids, using a mix of both chemistries (so I understand), will meet just about all vaping needs. As a for instance, take the Panasonic CGR18650CH. That has a Constant Current discharge of 10Amps which equates to nigh on 40 watts and if anyone vapes at anything like approaching that figure, they will be holding their mod between top quality oven mitts and using a welder's mask for face protection. If you are thinking of sub-ohm vaping PV then I would advise giving the CGR's serious consideration. Failing that stick with IMR's.