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My nemesis aka the 510 connector

You are a man of many talents sir

... and master of absolutely none mate! You'll see the evidence in the next couple of days when the postman comes a knocking!

They look great Lee

Cheers Rob - because they start out thicker, and the hole is the perfect size for the centre pin, there's quite a lot of room for error when reducing the "flange" diameter (girly snigger!), but the best thing is, the top flange fills the base of the connector, so I think it makes it marginally less likely to short out.
 
And FINALLY - here's the quick and easy solder method for the centre pin (the pin looks a bit tarnished after I've heated it. They don;t normally - I was trying to photograph it as I was doing it and heated it a bit too long!):

View attachment 1532

EDIT: Dammit! I've just noticed the last three photos are not in order! The one in the middle should be first and the first one should be second. Or to put it another way, switch the first to piccies around. Night night. Sleep tight!
 
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Not yet!!!
Normally between 10 and 11 unless I'm waiting for something in which case it's nearer 1pm :D
 
that looks a brilliant Answer to a problem most ppl will have if they make or own any Mods
 
Soooooo..... I finally decided to have a bash at assembling the components into a tin using the ready soldered connections I got from Stealthvape.

Having already tested the board previously I went ahead and began drilling holes. I promptly buggered up my first tin and moved on to my second. This time I made a 'pilot' hole (which helped) and used a smaller drill size than the switch ( I figured it would be better to start smaller and enlarge the hole with a file to get a nice snug fit).

Oh so much filing later, I had the switch in position and fitting snugly. I then moved onto the connector hole and suprised myself by doing a pretty reasonable job of it.

Right then, onwards and upwards ... using a hot glue gun I fixed the battery holder and vv board into the tin using a shedload of glue (I figured if I put plenty of glue between the board and the tin it would stop it shorting out).

Nearly there now .... I soldered all the connections up (and seemed to do a bit better than previously after switching to a larger soldering iron tip).

I can almost taste the green cow now .... Time to throw in a couple of batts (amply nippled varieties this time) and give it a try.

Ok, deep breath, push the button and hey presto :



A bffa (that's a big fat feck all). Display not lighting up and no power to the connector (sigh).

So, out came the multimeter again. Was getting power to the switch but it was here I suddenly wondered if I had more than half brain cell. I was getting an 8+ volt reading by touching both pins on the switch, but apparently nothing when the switch was depressed. At this point it dawned on me that I didn't have a clue what I was doing.

By touching both pins, was I completing a circuit? Why did the circuit appear to break when I pushed the button? After a little head scratching I convinced myself that something must be creating a short. I popped the batteries out, half expecting to find one of them half flat but they both read out at 4.14V. I checked the solder connections again and although desperately amatuerish, they seemed solid. There didn't seem to be any obvious contact point between the tin and the vv board so my mind turned to where the tin was making contact... namely the connector and the switch.

I tried insulating the switch threads and locking nut with some ptfe tape and a suitably sized rubber o ring. Still no joy. I then began to wonder if it had been as expediant as I's first thought to superglue the connector in place.

Much cursing later, I decided to try and take everything out of the tin and see if I could get it working again outside of the tin. Bloody good stuff that hot glue eh?

Even more cursing later, I had the battery holder, switch and vv board 'de-tinned' (the connector wouldn't budge though).

I dug out another pre soldered connector and got it all connected again outside of the tin and with no possibilty of the tin causing a short and lo and behold:



A bffa.

Still getting 8v to the switch .... 8v still disappearing when switch pressed and no signs of life in the vv board's led display. (Bugger)

I have tried 3 different switches and still getting the same result. I've also tried my second vv board (straight out the antistatic bag) and still no joy.

I can only conclude that I've buggered 3 switches or 2 vv boards .... or 3 switches AND 2 vv boards.

I would appreciate it if anyone could offer me any hints/tips/advice/loaded guns/lengths of rope/cyanide pills etc.



I'm now going to sit and cry quietly to myself in a corner.

In fact, screw that ....I'm gonna go and bawl me eyes out. ;)
 
hey steffi, if you measure 8v across the switch then 0v when you push it. that means the switch is working ok. be careful here because when you are measuring 0v at the switch when pushed what you are actually seeing is a potential difference of 0v. this means that because the switch terminals are effectively shorted out they are at the same potential and there is no voltage drop. it does NOT mean that the voltage applied to the switch is 0v. you should take any voltage readings with respect to your 0v line.

hope this helps
alex
 
Steffi - It sounds as though you are using a "push to break" switch if the multimeter reads 8V with the switch unpressed, and 0V when it is pressed. So, the circuit is constantly live until you press the switch and it breaks the contact and "turns off" until you release it again and it makes contact again.
 
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