What's new

Raguri Rant - Sub Ohming and Newbies.

You know what does wind me up though when you buy the Lg it says 35A so most people think there safe it should tell you that it actually runs at 20A its an accident waiting to happen, not a problem for me as my mini doesn't go over 30 watt ,but what if someone has a 100 watt box mod and see 35A and thinks well that will do me
 
The new Aw bats 12 amp , using on a ragnarok.. Not getting in to a slagging match here but you clearly put me in a spot when I posted it ..and al your followers /sheep started baaing at me [emoji2]

I'll be a sheep for anyone if it means I get to keep my beautiful face.


Sent from my iPhone using Planet of the Vapes
 
You know what does wind me up though when you buy the Lg it says 35A so most people think there safe it should tell you that it actually runs at 20A its an accident waiting to happen, not a problem for me as my mini doesn't go over 30 watt ,but what if someone has a 100 watt box mod and see 35A and thinks well that will do me

It's a sad fact of 21st century life.

Much like the fact that everyone is just ten feet from a man masturbating to a picture of Katie Hopkins. We all know it's wrong and yet it has just become accepted practise.
 
Out with the dogs atm, but if you then read on, I explain why they can be used. ;)
I'll do a full reply when I'm home, purely as my reynauds is acting up just replying this.
But this is the basic reason.
The 350s, can you tell me the actual manufacturer of them? And don't say Efest, if you do, I will cry. Do you know the exact spec sheet as well? And how many amps they can pull whilst pulsing, and how they sag for both current and voltage when under load?
If you do, then fuck it, use 350s. But until you Know all that info, don't.
I know the 30 amps can do it, as I've read the spec sheet, tested them in over 10 mechanical mods with low builds to account for different levels of voltage drop, and have read the spec sheets published by the manufacturer.
However, I do also add a notice saying, in effect "on your head be it". Ie, I don't actually advise doing it, but it is possible to do.

Toodle pip.



I too am home so let me expand before opening the dinner wine :D

Firstly I made no mention of anything related to 18350. I think you have me confused with another poster in this thread
My issue is with your assertion that you see a 30A draw using very low resistance

Specifically
Cloud Chasing/Sub Ohming for Dummies V2.0 said:
Rightthen, a fair few of you will probably be reading the last two setupsabove this, and shouting “BUT THAT'S NOT SAFE! THAT'S LOWER THAN0.14”. Well, you're right, it is lower than 0.14. But, They'resafe.
Amp Draws, are never what they seem.
Everyone is advisedto calculate at 4.2, hell, I calculate at that. But, you will NEVERget 4.2v to your coil on a mech.
why?
Voltage drop.
Forexample, in order for ME to draw 30 amps, I need to be down at around0.05-0.06. This is due to the internal resistance of the cell, andthe resistance of the mod/rba itself.

If you need to build that low to get a 30A draw there's something glaringly wrong

(Note I'm taking your post at face value. Since it's intended as an informational guide for new and inexperienced users this seems reasonable)

Lets do some basic maths. I'll cheat a bit and choose the numbers from your post that make the maths easiest

You state that a 0.05 coil gives you a draw of 30A. Presumably from measuring 1.5V across the coil

Basic Maths, power = current squared * Resistance
For your example
power = 30 * 30 * 0.05 = 45 Watts

In my personal experience a typical 0.3Ohm build on a VTC battery gives about 3.4V across the coil on a fresh battery
More basic maths, power = volts squared / resistance
For my example
power = (3.4 * 3.4)/0.3 = 40 watts in round numbers

So your claiming that your 0.05 build is roughly the same as my 0.3 build.

Now you're a man of the world and I'd assume you mucked about with enough 0.3ish builds to know how they work. And I'd assume you'd expect a 0.05 build to perform better. Yet you hold up as an example a build which if true is completely failing to perform and should set off alarm bells in a major way


Anyway, all that as it may be

My point was that perhaps in light of your rant you might want to reconsider your sticky post which recommends a build which in practise overloads most batteries out there.
Or perhaps rather than joking about you being the biggest nutter etc etc you might prefer to include a warning that the suggested build will probably exceed the capabilities of most batteries. If you coupled that with a brief warning about current limits, continuous vs burst etc then it would be even better
 
Real boobies? Honey, you're not ready for real boobies!!! :P

Boobs! Boobs! Boobs! Boobs!

Mods - when are we gonna get a willy waggling emoji to even up the score??

What do you mean, I'm not ready for real boobies. Lol.

I'm old and a booby expert.
 
Back
Top Bottom