vapervince
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- Sep 6, 2022
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^^ I agree with CC s assessment
Essentially the juice pours in from the sides and forms a reservoir directly under the cotton - I don't have it so I can't comment but it looks like it will be very effective for mesh but I wouldn't be too keen on trying it with regular coils.
One thing to be aware of is that mod is bypass which means you have to use Ohms Law build to a specific resistance to get the best from it and avoid red hot dry hits from hell if you go too low or an insipid underpowered vape if the resistance is too high.
If your favourite mesh is made by another manufacturer and you don't care for the Vapefly stuff you must stick with mesh of similar resistance to that supplied with the tank - for example, sticking a strip of 0.13 Wotofo Mesh in the tank and firing it on that mod will be a very bad idea as it will be hot af. You probably need to stick with resistances of around 0.20 to match the mod power output - which means you won't have much choice in which mesh you can use. If you aren't familiar with Ohms Law I'd give the mod a miss.
To be honest mate, I don't think that mod and tank are a good match. As the mod is by-pass it will provide battery voltage output and the power will reduce as the battery level drops - with a mesh tank you are much better off being able to select a specific wattage and get the same powered vape for the entire battery charge. You won't get that with that mod.
This is all just personal opinion but I would only buy that kit if I had a matching RDA of the appropriate size to use on the mod - I would treat the mod as a mech mod with safety protections that I could safely pocket carry. I would use the tank on a separate REGULATED mod.
I like the mod and tank as individual items - but they make a really bad combination IMO.
Don't know if you've seen this video on the Siegfried Kit but it might be worth a watch.
Thanks!
So it does kind of regulate it in a way... it varies the voltage based on what ohm coil is in there. So it's not all that bad with having to stick to exactly the same ohm every time? But it still has to suit the mod and not be too far out from the ohm it's designed to be used with.
He says it acts like a mechanical in the sense that your power will go down as the battery is used but not as fast as a full mechanical. He said it's good for training people how to use a proper mechanical because if you put a coil in that it doesn't like, it simply won't fire because it has some degree of protection.
That sounds good and not as bad as I thought. He said he used a basically full VG liquid and chain hit it and he didn't get one dry hit.
So overall the kit seems like a good set up. The whole thing is only like £30 on Sourcemore but is out of stock at the mo. I like it a lot more now I've seen this vid.
pretty close, but not quite...
The mod has basic protections like it won't fire if the ohms are too high or low and will have atomiser short protection, standard reverse polarity protection so the board won't fry if you put the battery in upside down and the power will cut off when the battery is too low. It maybe has a standard overheat protection - but it doesn't vary the voltage as it gives the maximum volts the battery can provide at all times because it is a by-pass device. YOU protect yourself by building to a resistance that will provide the wattage you need for whatever atomiser just as you would for a mech mod.
Because of the protections mods like this are good for figuring out what type of build you are likely to use in a mech as you can experiment with more safety. But ideally you should familiarise yourself with ohms law so you know in advance the wattage it will provide with each build - and , of course, you MUST use a good high Amp battery with it, preferably a 35 Amp 21700 if you decide to try it out with low resistance builds.
From personal experience of this type of by-pass mod you'll probably get about 3.6 Volts at the 510 when the battery is fully charged and 2,9 Volts at the 510 when it is down to 3.6 Volts. Don't assume you're going to get 4.2 volts at the 510 because it simply isn't going to happen.
This means that with a fully charged battery you will get almost 65 Watts with a 0.2 ohm build - this will progressively reduce to about 42 Watts by the time the battery charge is down to 3.6 Volts.
Another thing to be aware of in advance is even though the chipset will allow the mod to keep firing below 3.6 Volts - probably down to 3,2ish - you probably won't want to vape it below 3.6 as the resulting vape will start to get progressively more feeble - so don't plan on vaping for the entire battery charge. Most mech mod users tend to swap batteries out at around 3.7 Volts because of the vape getting progressively weaker as the battery discharges - so you may easily find yourself only getting half the number of hits you would expect to get from an equivalent fully regulated 21700 mod before you find yourself replacing the battery.
Although it may not be clear from what I've written above - I actually LIKE mods like this, as I use mech tube mods frequently at home - and this mod basically is like a mech in the way it vapes with added protections - but I just want to make sure you are aware just how much the resulting vape wattage will drop as the battery depletes. There is A LOT of difference between the power levels of a full and half charged battery - and it can be tricky getting a 'Goldilocks' vape from a mesh tank on a mod like this.
You are on the right track by observing you need to keep to a pretty close resistance to the mesh supplied with the kit as standard if you're going to use that mod and tank as a combo. Using lower resistance mesh on a mod like this can quickly become painful.
Just for shits and giggles I'll lit the resulting wattage vape you'll get from a 0.13 mesh strip -
Fully charged - 99.69 Watts
Battery down to 3.6V - 64.69 Watts
Must admit I know virtually nothing about mech mods, mainly because I've never seen any advantage to them.