Squonk Check

[mdhardy01]

Pins for my favourite rdas

 

[TartanSpartan]

 

[Lord Grim]

Picked up a couple of igo-l's this week, converted one for squonking, I'm pretty chuffed with it.

How did you convert that may I ask? I've got an Igo L, an Igo S, an Igo W and an Igo M sitting in the spares box doing bugger all and did think about converting one or all of them.
A pic would be handy if you can rustle one up

 

[JohnnyVape]

My new coppervape twinned with the Sapor from @paulbee.

 

[amheir]

How did you convert that may I ask? I've got an Igo L, an Igo S, an Igo W and an Igo M sitting in the spares box doing bugger all and did think about converting one or all of them.
A pic would be handy if you can rustle one up

It was surprisingly easy.

I stuck the l with the 510 between two books and pushed the 510 out (after unscrewing the screw). Take the two insulators and cut a 1-2mm slit in each. Then I used a file to carve a slit into the base of the pin with a notch in the side to line up with the split in the insulator.

I'll dismantle it and take some photos later this evening.

 

[Smut]

View attachment 110779
Pins for my favourite rdas

2.5mm pin for the apocalypse?

 

[pfvapes]

 

[amheir]

How does tagging work on here? @Lord Grim that seems to do it.

Here's some quick shots from tonight.

Super sophisticated atty clamp to remove the centre pin, firm pressure down was all I needed:

Cuts made, these don't want to be too big or you will risk a short (L-R, Centre pin, bottom insulator, top insulator):

Groove in the base of the pin, I forgot this first time and wondered why it wouldn't squonk..:

All lined up to let the juice flow:

So, remove the screw, push out the centre pin, the bottom insulator will probably come with it, remove the top insulator. Cut slits in both insulators, take care not to lose the top one, it's a springy bastard. File or dremel (dremel will probably be easier and neater) a groove on the base of the centre pin, and a notch on one side. Put the bottom insulator back in and line the centre pin up so it will allow juice through, push it in, it's firm but doable by hand. Put the top insulator in last, again, line it up so there's an uninterrupted channel for juice. Put the screw back in the top of the centre post.

That's about it. Try and make sure you don't cause a short, and watch out for the centre pin spinning when you overtighten the screw, it's probably not in firm enough and might block the juice flow it if turns too much.

 

[Lord Grim]

Brilliant @amheir , thanks for taking the time to do that. One last question before I get the Dremel out, what's the resistance in juice flow like comparable to a squonk RDA BF pin. I know that it isn't an option on the Igo-L, but just for comparison?

Thanks again for your help.

 

[amheir]

It's comparable to my VA Cyclone with a proper BF pin, possibly a bit easier than the Sapor with the Wotofo conversion kit.