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When to change the battery on a mech- it's 3.7V right?

The 20700s were more popular than 21700s about 7 or 8 years ago because the few 21700s available at the time were pretty weak. As you mentioned Mooch tested the iJoy 20700 of the time at 30 Amps CDR - but the 21700s of the time were at the limit at 24 Amps so the high power mech users used either 30 Amp 20700s or the 30 Amp 20s 18650s.

But things have changed, The Samsung 3,000mah 30T has a genuine 35 Amp CDR and the Molicel P45B has 4,500mah and 35 Amp CDR both offer better potential performance, or, alternatively the 30 Amp 4200mah Molicel P42A.

I still use Samsung 30Ts because the Molicels can be a bit oversized, but the Molicels are probably the best bet if your mod can take them
That makes sense why the 20700's were used more by us then instead of the 21700's. I do have a fairly large collection of mechs but am more a regulated guy, even though I am using a mech right now lol.

I have one of the Molicell P42A's, I'm unsure which one but know one of my mods takes this size cell so I got one. I have to ask, if the Samsung only has 3000MAH and a 35A CDR, then why do people buy this instead of the Molicel P45B if it offers 1500 extra MAH?

Apart from your explanation saying the molicels can be a bit oversized- I found this out the hard way with the Molicel P26A's the other day trying to get them in my cuboid- they must be slightly larger as I couldn't get the battery door shut and also had to whack the Cuboid on a table as the batteries were stuck inside the mod lol.

If it's the Vandy vape Pulse BF a few seconds with a sharp pen knife you can fit a 21700. Dremel might be better.

I can take photos if needed mate.
Thats the name of the mod, for the life of me I couldn't remember it. Yes if you could show me some pictures I would be very grateful, I would like to be able to get a 21700 in there for the extra capacity.

On the topic of batteries in 21700 mechs, my go to is this https://www.nubattery.co.uk/samsung-50s---21700-battery

35A and 5000mAh, what's not to like?
When I saw 5000MAH and 35A, I was shocked but in a good way. I just had to google them, Samsung rates them at 25A although Mooch thought this was running the cell too hot so has rated them at 20A CDR.

This is still flipping amazing though, a 5000MAH battery that can do 20A continuous? I will definitely be adding some of these to my have to buy list, 5000MAH would have been unheard of in the 18650 dominant era, and even if it was somehow managed it would have been something like a 5A maximum cell.
 
I would be very skeptical of it achieving 50A CDR when lower capacity cells are only reaching 35 max, unfortunately I couldn't find a test of this battery done by Mooch.

If building low on a mech I'd go for the P50B or eve 40PL for really low.
Thanks for letting me know about these batteries, I don't build really low though, I find I can get a great vape between 0.3 and 0.4 Ohms with the right build. Sometimes if my coils have more mass I might push it to 0.2 but am not a super sub ohmer on mechs.
Regulated I just build and am not bothered about the resistance where it doesn't effect amp load on the batteries, so I just build to size for the RDA or RTA and thats it lol.
 
I hear you, my sweet spot is 0.17-0.18, trying to get around 70-80W. I'm not a fan of cool/cold vapes when DTL'ing.
 
I hear you, my sweet spot is 0.17-0.18, trying to get around 70-80W. I'm not a fan of cool/cold vapes when DTL'ing.
I see, I like a warm but not hot vape if that makes sense.

0.17-0.18 is 98-103W, however once you take into account battery sag it will be hitting exactly in your range- I gather you already know this and am just trying to make conversation lol
 
I would be very skeptical of it achieving 50A CDR when lower capacity cells are only reaching 35 max, unfortunately I couldn't find a test of this battery done by Mooch.


Thanks for letting me know about these batteries, I don't build really low though, I find I can get a great vape between 0.3 and 0.4 Ohms with the right build. Sometimes if my coils have more mass I might push it to 0.2 but am not a super sub ohmer on mechs.
Regulated I just build and am not bothered about the resistance where it doesn't effect amp load on the batteries, so I just build to size for the RDA or RTA and thats it lol.
These latest 21700 are able to have of alot amps drawn from them eve 40PL being probly the highest looking at mooches bench testing.
I'm running 0.08 builds on the molicel P50B the battery doesnt get warm that's 46amps plus.
 
So most bats have an operational voltage of 3.7v. When fully charged they sit at around 4.1 maybe 4.2v.

You'll notice a significant power drop when your battery is near dead. Usually around the 3.3v mark. Your atty will run in a reduced power before you get to that point anyways.

But warnings required here. As dropping a cell down below 3.2v will stress it beyond safety levels and should be discarded. As recharging it at that point is considered very dangerous.
 
So most bats have an operational voltage of 3.7v. When fully charged they sit at around 4.1 maybe 4.2v.

You'll notice a significant power drop when your battery is near dead. Usually around the 3.3v mark. Your atty will run in a reduced power before you get to that point anyways.

But warnings required here. As dropping a cell down below 3.2v will stress it beyond safety levels and should be discarded. As recharging it at that point is considered very dangerous.
I have to tell you this mate, a cells MAH rating is with it being discharged to 2.5V. 3.1V is the cutoff for a lot of regulated mods, so I suggest not going below this but charging a cell that is 3.1V is not in any way dangerous.
EDIT: And I am talking taking a cell down to 3.1V in a regulated mod, not a mech, and just wanted to point out that charging a cell below 3.2V is not dangerous, down to 2.5V is possible but I don't recommend that.
 
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DNA Boards default to 2.75V cutoff.

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