Why are my 0.15 Ohm coils showing 0.24 Ohms on mod?

[jonj5077]

Hey guys,

Simple question, I'm assuming the answer isn't quite so simple. What could be causing this? Is it dangerous for me to vape while this is happening? What can I do to fix it? For context, I'm using Kanger Ni-200 coils in a Kanger TopTank (not SubTank) with a Joyetech Cuboid Mini Mod which has TC.

Thanks,

Jon

P.S. I know there's always going to be some discrepancy between manufacturer and reality resistances, I just always though that would account for a 0.01 or 0.02 ohm difference.

 

[spikey1]

Dodgy box probably, I've got a box of Triton 1.8s that all read 2.04 but it doesn't matter as much with Kanthal.

Do you have another mod or meter to check on just in case your mod is what's out?

As long as the ohms stay stable just adjust your temp down slightly and they should be OK but if your concerned at all get another box of coils.

 

[Simon G]

P.S. I know there's always going to be some discrepancy between manufacturer and reality resistances, I just always though that would account for a 0.01 or 0.02 ohm difference.

nahhh, I've had 1.8ohm aspire coils that read over 2 ohms on many occasion. I think manufactures err on the side of caution to make sure they aren't under the specified resistance. In my experience they are never spot on and they are never under.

 

[jonj5077]

Dodgy box probably, I've got a box of Triton 1.8s that all read 2.04 but it doesn't matter as much with Kanthal.

Do you have another mod or meter to check on just in case your mod is what's out?

As long as the ohms stay stable just adjust your temp down slightly and they should be OK but if your concerned at all get another box of coils.

The mod is brand new, arrived this morning. It's a Joyeetech Cuboid Mini, if that matters at all. It reads other coils fairly well. The coils aren't stable upon firing, they jump all over the place in terms of resistance. I put in 0.5 Ohm coils, they read as 0.66 Ohms, but they stay stable throughout the vape. I've tried coils from like 3 boxes.

 

[spikey1]

The mod is brand new, arrived this morning. It's a Joyeetech Cuboid Mini, if that matters at all. It reads other coils fairly well. The coils aren't stable upon firing, they jump all over the place in terms of resistance. I put in 0.5 Ohm coils, they read as 0.66 Ohms, but they stay stable throughout the vape. I've tried coils from like 3 boxes.

That's normal with a lot of TC mods, they show the change of resistance as the coil heats up, it's when you stop firing and it cools down again or before you begin to fire it should show a constant resistance.

You are selecting TC and Ni mode for your Ni coils? I'm not sure what the 0.5s are, Ti or SS, again the correct mode must be selected.

Without anything else to check them on there's no way really to determine whether it is just the mod reading high but it's unlikely.

 

[andre forest]

The resistance of the coil will increase when it is hot, as the atoms in the metal move around more at higher temperatures it becomes harder for electrons to flow through, increasing the resistance. To keep it from jumping around, many mods allow you to lock the resistance to prevent inaccurate readings while vaping and to avoid the chip being unable to read the temperatures properly for TC. Lock the resistance on your mod, and when your coil is at room temperature such as first thing in the morning when you haven't vaped all night, lock the resistance it reads at and this should give you a much smoother TC vape. Also it is worth noting that most mods will read a coil's resistance slightly higher, because the connection between the mod and the tank and the tank to the coil isn't perfect and increases resistance slightly.
I don't know if it's different for the cuboid mini, but here are joyetech's instructions on how to lock the resistance on the cuboid:

Locking the atomizer resistance:
Always make sure your atomizer is at room temperature before locking in your ohms, never lock the ohms on a hot atomizer.
To lock the atomizer reading:

• Enter the menu with the above directions.
• Press the left adjustment button 2 times.
• With the Atomizer line of the screen blinking, press the right adjustment button once to lock the reading. A padlock should appear to the right of the ohms of the atomizer.

Your atomizer reading is now locked in and the device will not ask you if you remove the atomizer. Make sure if you are switching out atomizers to unlock this feature or the device will not notice the change and can cause damage.

 

[jonj5077]

That's normal with a lot of TC mods, they show the change of resistance as the coil heats up, it's when you stop firing and it cools down again or before you begin to file it should show a constant resistance.

You are selecting TC and Ni mode for your Ni coils? I'm not sure what the 0.5s are, Ti or SS, again the correct mode must be selected.

Without anything else to check them on there's no way really to determine whether it is just the mod reading high but it's unlikely.

Yeah, I thought that would be the case. I've had a lot of issue with the whole Ni-200 coil anyway with it burning out the wick even in TC mode, so I'm just using the 0.5 Ohm coils (which are SS) in VW mode.

The resistance of the coil will increase when it is hot, as the atoms in the metal move around more at higher temperatures it becomes harder for electrons to flow through, increasing the resistance. To keep it from jumping around, many mods allow you to lock the resistance to prevent inaccurate readings while vaping and to avoid the chip being unable to read the temperatures properly for TC. Lock the resistance on your mod, and when your coil is at room temperature such as first thing in the morning when you haven't vaped all night, lock the resistance it reads at and this should give you a much smoother TC vape. Also it is worth noting that most mods will read a coil's resistance slightly higher, because the connection between the mod and the tank and the tank to the coil isn't perfect and increases resistance slightly.
I don't know if it's different for the cuboid mini, but here are joyetech's instructions on how to lock the resistance on the cuboid:

Locking the atomizer resistance:
Always make sure your atomizer is at room temperature before locking in your ohms, never lock the ohms on a hot atomizer.
To lock the atomizer reading:

• Enter the menu with the above directions.
• Press the left adjustment button 2 times.
• With the Atomizer line of the screen blinking, press the right adjustment button once to lock the reading. A padlock should appear to the right of the ohms of the atomizer.

Your atomizer reading is now locked in and the device will not ask you if you remove the atomizer. Make sure if you are switching out atomizers to unlock this feature or the device will not notice the change and can cause damage.

Yeah, I've read the manual and know about locking the resistance, which I have now tried, but I think the coils are just a lost cause at this point. I'm looking into RTA builds at the moment, will most likely use Ti wire. I will most definitely be locking my atomizer resistance when I back to TC vaping, so thank you very much for your reply.

 

[Arctic_Wolf]

Hey guys,

Simple question, I'm assuming the answer isn't quite so simple. What could be causing this? Is it dangerous for me to vape while this is happening? What can I do to fix it? For context, I'm using Kanger Ni-200 coils in a Kanger TopTank (not SubTank) with a Joyetech Cuboid Mini Mod which has TC.

Thanks,

Jon

P.S. I know there's always going to be some discrepancy between manufacturer and reality resistances, I just always though that would account for a 0.01 or 0.02 ohm difference.

I use several top tanks (and a subtank lol). If I don't have my own builds using the RBA+ decks installed in them, then I mainly use the 0.5 SS (pink ring), and the 1.2 and 1.5 ohm Ni80 (red ring) prebuilt SSOCC heads. I occasionally use up the 0.5 ohm NI80's (also red ring) that were issued with the subtank, subtank mini's and top tanks too. I also occasionally use the 0.5 ohm clapton and ceramic (both Kanthal) SSOCC's as well.

Every head is almost always slightly higher than Kanger rate them on every device I have. My Coil Master 521 tab is the one I trust the most, but my Cuboid is fairly accurate as well. The 0.5 SS coils are always about 0.62, as have been the claptons and 0.5 Ni80's if my shoddy memory isn't tripping me up again lol. The ceramics I think were all about 0.58. the 1.2 and 1.5's aren't as far out and are usually only out by about 0.05 over as well. The lower the ohm rating of the SSOCC's, as has already been mentioned, the greater margin of error Kanger seem to apply. With mods being much more accurate these days, I dont know why they apply the larger margins. If you're used to the coils it doesn't really matter as over time they're all the same and personally, the slightly higher ohm's is actually closer to my personal preference anyway, so sorted from my POV lol . The SSOCC ceramics fire a bit hot for my taste and unfortunately they're Kanthal so no option for TC to keep them slightly cooler.

I do have several of their 0.15 Ni200's issued with the tanks but I've never tried them. Vaping that low with a hotter vape in general just doesn't agree with me, for some reason super hot vaping with most liquids gives me bad indigestion. However, I need to do a case analysis on my new RX dna200 and VT133 over the coming days and I'm gonna use a toptank with a 0.15 Ni200 to carry out those tests. Once the analysis are completed, I have one liquid that I might just be able to try with the 0.15 ohm heads and give them a proper try out.

I'll break them all out of the proverbial safe place I placed them in and now can't find rofl. I'll test them all on my 521 tab for you and let you know if they're all reading higher than the rated 0.15 ohms for you OK mate . I have a feeling they probably will be higher though based on experience with their other OCC and SSOCC heads.

Quote or like this post or something so I can easily find it again to let you know what the 0.15 ohm heads are all reading for you ok .

Happy vaping .

 

[jonj5077]

I use several top tanks (and a subtank lol). If I don't have my own builds using the RBA+ decks installed in them, then I mainly use the 0.5 SS (pink ring), and the 1.2 and 1.5 ohm Ni80 (red ring) prebuilt SSOCC heads. I occasionally use up the 0.5 ohm NI80's (also red ring) that were issued with the subtank, subtank mini's and top tanks too. I also occasionally use the 0.5 ohm clapton and ceramic (both Kanthal) SSOCC's as well.

Every head is almost always slightly higher than Kanger rate them on every device I have. My Coil Master 521 tab is the one I trust the most, but my Cuboid is fairly accurate as well. The 0.5 SS coils are always about 0.62, as have been the claptons and 0.5 Ni80's if my shoddy memory isn't tripping me up again lol. The ceramics I think were all about 0.58. the 1.2 and 1.5's aren't as far out and are usually only out by about 0.05 over as well. The lower the ohm rating of the SSOCC's, as has already been mentioned, the greater margin of error Kanger seem to apply. With mods being much more accurate these days, I dont know why they apply the larger margins. If you're used to the coils it doesn't really matter as over time they're all the same and personally, the slightly higher ohm's is actually closer to my personal preference anyway, so sorted from my POV lol . The SSOCC ceramics fire a bit hot for my taste and unfortunately they're Kanthal so no option for TC to keep them slightly cooler.

I do have several of their 0.15 Ni200's issued with the tanks but I've never tried them. Vaping that low with a hotter vape in general just doesn't agree with me, for some reason super hot vaping with most liquids gives me bad indigestion. However, I need to do a case analysis on my new RX dna200 and VT133 over the coming days and I'm gonna use a toptank with a 0.15 Ni200 to carry out those tests. Once the analysis are completed, I have one liquid that I might just be able to try with the 0.15 ohm heads and give them a proper try out.

I'll break them all out of the proverbial safe place I placed them in and now can't find rofl. I'll test them all on my 521 tab for you and let you know if they're all reading higher than the rated 0.15 ohms for you OK mate . I have a feeling they probably will be higher though based on experience with their other OCC and SSOCC heads.

Quote or like this post or something so I can easily find it again to let you know what the 0.15 ohm heads are all reading for you ok .

Happy vaping .

Cheers mate! Looking forward to hearing from you again.

 

[Arctic_Wolf]

Cheers mate! Looking forward to hearing from you again.

Heya, apologies for delay, got overnighted in bloody hospital ffs lol.

I found them all eventually lol.......... As expected, they all came out above the rated 0.15 ohm bud. Most were actually out by +0.07.

Most came out at at 0.22 ohm on my 521 tab. A couple were 0.24, but VERY gently pressing the base of them on a table or worktop before you screw them into the base of your top tanks and they went straight back to 0.22 ohm.

Don't overtighten them when you screw them into the base as well, as even more so with softer Ni200 that can nip the wire at the base and alter the reading. It's exactly as you expected I'd say mate. They're rated at 0.15 ohms but they're actually wrapped for 0.22, most likely to give that margin of error ohming that low with dozens of cheap mods out there that don't have the most accurate resistance checking functionality. Personally, I'd be more concerned if it was the other way around lol .

I had one that came out at 0.44 and a second at 0.92 pmsl. Either there's a pretty crappy short or something going on in those two or some nugget used Ni80 instead of Ni200 lol.

As long as they're vaping ok at 0.22 - 0.24 ohm then the discrepancy is either OK with you or it isn't heh ?? How are you finding them?? As long as they're each and all at least consistent and they're all vaping the same, is that small margin of error acceptable to you or not ultimately ???

Consistency is my primary concern. As mentioned, the 0.5 SS type that are my preference are all out by +0.12 and all of my devices read them accordingly at 0.62 ohm, but they're all the same and vape consistently which matters most to me . I can literally only find ONE place that sells the 0.5 ohm SS type globally and Kanger's sales reps whos English isn't exactly great was making it a nightmare to try and somehow order them directly from Kanger. Ergo, I had to source them from the US lol. I'm probably going to have to stock up on some pretty quickly with the way things are headed in the US as far as vaping is concerned before they're all bought out lol. You're lucky lol, Your favourite SSOCC's are all out by 0.07 ohm and you can buy 'em anywhere. I have to pay a little extra on top to get mine ffs heh. I've hopefully got it sussed on how many I can purchase in one go without incurring additional duties .

Do you have an RTA, RDA or RDTA lol? Or, is your preference simply purchase premade consumables, bung 'em in and away you go ? Obviously the top tanks are supplied with the mini RBA+ decks and they are SUPER EASY to have a go at making your own Ni200 coils mate. Wire and cotton is much cheaper than it used to be and Ni200 is fairly easy to work with without all sorts of fancy tools .

You could try a few DIY coils out on ya top tank and see what you think to get your coils a perfect 0.15 or even venture a tad lower too. If it works out and you enjoyed it, that could be you on ya way to an RTA (or not lolol) .