Disasterous attempt at scotish roll

[Mobb]

So I tried this https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...tf/my_method_to_wicking_the_subtank_mini_rba/ as every normal method I have tried fails on the subtank mini. Anyway it was a disaster as after a few vapes the cotton burnt inside the coil. I am guessing theres too much cotton in there, but I thought that the Scottish roll that was the point of a lot of cotton. I did struggle to get the cotton in even after taking a bit off. So what am I doing wrong. Btw I found this link on reddit.

 

[Thom2022]

For starters what cotton are you using? I know the Scottish roll uses muji pads so are you using those or do you have other stuff aswell? I have found that cotton bacon works brilliantly in tanks and the Scottish roll for drippers. I tend to use a thin strip of cotton bacon that's snug in the coil. Twist up and end and draw it through completely 2-3 times to shave it down a touch and then discard the fluff bits that come off. Then snip the cotton off flush with the deck and then using some pointy tweezers very gently open up and comb out the tails so they thin slightly a develop a natural point. Then I juice them up and dip those little points into the juice channels making sure not to compress the cotton too much. Once that's done screw on the chimney making sure the tails don't shift. Add a few more drops onto the coils and wick and then assemble.
I will say I've never used a sub tank but that method has worked on all my tanks. Takes a bit of mastering but once your there then your golden. Can you take the base out without having to dump the juice? If so then try with less and less wick until you nail it.

 

[Mobb]

For starters what cotton are you using? I know the Scottish roll uses muji pads so are you using those or do you have other stuff aswell? I have found that cotton bacon works brilliantly in tanks and the Scottish roll for drippers. I tend to use a thin strip of cotton bacon that's snug in the coil. Twist up and end and draw it through completely 2-3 times to shave it down a touch and then discard the fluff bits that come off. Then snip the cotton off flush with the deck and then using some pointy tweezers very gently open up and comb out the tails so they thin slightly a develop a natural point. Then I juice them up and dip those little points into the juice channels making sure not to compress the cotton too much. Once that's done screw on the chimney making sure the tails don't shift. Add a few more drops onto the coils and wick and then assemble.
I will say I've never used a sub tank but that method has worked on all my tanks. Takes a bit of mastering but once your there then your golden. Can you take the base out without having to dump the juice? If so then try with less and less wick until you nail it.

Yes m8 a pad of muji with one of the outer layers taken off then stretched till 3 times the size of the pad and then I used a 3rd of the pad as described in the link. The fact that it burnt means theres too much in there? Will have a another go at the weekend when I have the time.

Cheers,

Mobb

 

[Arctic_Wolf]

If you're struggling to get the cotton in, you can bet there's too much. You want to feel just a slight bit of resistance as you pull the cotton through. If you're having to use force or it just glides through the coil, it's too thick or thin. A few goes at it mate, you'll soon get the hang of how much is needed, so don't let it deflate you .

Scottish roll is much better with cotton bacon as you can tease a strip away and roll it much easier.

Muji is often best cut, but even then, people use Muji in loads of different ways.

I prefer Muji in my top tank RBA+ decks because of the way the holes are positioned and the circular body of the RBA+ over cotton bacon. I use cotton bacon more in my RTA's, etc.

I leave the outer shell of the muji on, cut my strip and send it through the coil. Once through, I use a really sharp dentists pick to comb and fluff up all of the cotton, then gently pad it down into the RBA. Due to the way that the holes are positioned on the RBA+, you need to leave fairly decent tails to place down into the recesses of the RBA+ AND make sure obviously that the holes are well covered with cotton or you'll go the other way and get a leak.

It's better to over cotton and get a dry hit and burn the wick on your first couple of tries than too little cotton and liquid everywhere believe me lol .

Simply adjust down slightly from your first attempt and try it again. If still a dry hit or it's very slow to rewick between hits, pull the RBA again and cut another wick very slightly thinner, rinse and repeat. I'll bet by the third try you'll have the amount needed sussed .

The RBA+ thankfully are quite forgiving with normal 70/30 liquids at commonly used wattages of 25-35 w. If thicker liquid or higher wattages, then you need to get them pretty spot on .

Two more goes you'll be posting up that you've cracked it and ya happily vaping away .

EDIT:. A third of a pad in an RBA+ is WAY too much lol. No wonder that burnt. You need a thin strip max width 6-7mm tops depending on the internal diameter of your coil .

 

[johnr7]

I like 'MUJI Scottish Roll' in my STM.
I put it in quotes as there is NO way I could use 1/3 pad.
Perhaps it's not a full Scottish roll but I follow the same method with less pad (MUCH less probably, never really checked though).
Once I have rolled my fairly tight cylinder, if it is too big, I unroll a bit and rip some off until it fits nicely.
Then I cut above the chamber and poke to the bottom (I use V1 RBA modified with holes in the side also so I need to have some cotton at bottom slit and side hole).

 

[vapellie]

Am no expert on this, but I think the key part of the scottish roll is that yes it's a lot of cotton, but the cotton is very fluffy and airy, not densely packed in. I find it takes a long time to get the cotton whispy and fluffy before you roll it back up, and as has already been said, it should not take great force to stuff it through the coil, or you close back down all the air pockets in the cotton that you've created, which are necessary for the juice to travel through. the juice doesn't travel through the cotton per se, rather through the gaps between the cotton strands.

 

[s3rv3d]

So I tried this https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...tf/my_method_to_wicking_the_subtank_mini_rba/ as every normal method I have tried fails on the subtank mini. Anyway it was a disaster as after a few vapes the cotton burnt inside the coil. I am guessing theres too much cotton in there, but I thought that the Scottish roll that was the point of a lot of cotton. I did struggle to get the cotton in even after taking a bit off. So what am I doing wrong. Btw I found this link on reddit.

I've recently starting wicking a similar way. Instead of pulling the cotton through the chimney and cutting. Just cut it and fluff it up then place the chimney on like you usually would and tuck the cotton down.

 

[Mobb]

Thanks all for the replies, I just went with what the guy said in the link. I shall try again but use less cotton and see what happens.

Cheers,

Mobb

 

[Ment]

No-one should be using Muji if they want to push for extra performance. The only thing Muji is good for is MTL at high ohms.

There is a multitude of specialist cottons that put Muji to shame - Cotton Bacon, Fibre Freaks, Fuzion, Shake and Vape, Kendo.

You didn't say what sort of coil you're using - many prebuilt coils have an insufficient inner diameter so you don't have enough cotton relative to the amount of wire. As a rough guide, the ID should be at least 5 times the thickness of the wire.

 

[Mobb]

No-one should be using Muji if they want to push for extra performance. The only thing Muji is good for is MTL at high ohms.

There is a multitude of specialist cottons that put Muji to shame - Cotton Bacon, Fibre Freaks, Fuzion, Shake and Vape, Kendo.

You didn't say what sort of coil you're using - many prebuilt coils have an insufficient inner diameter so you don't have enough cotton relative to the amount of wire. As a rough guide, the ID should be at least 5 times the thickness of the wire.

24 awg kanthal with 2.5mm ID coming in at around 0.5 ish ohms.