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3d printing a mod

Here's my first effort using a DNA 75c board, I opted to use a @stealthvape actuator and mounting kit which made life a lot easier and less tacky.

All designed from scratch in Fusion 360.

Tips wise:
  • DNA chipset wiring is about as easy as it gets as long as you use its default button positions.
  • Design around the board and mounting first, this will mostly determine the width and height.
  • Allow enough space for the wiring.
  • Using a battery sled from Stealth Vape also made life easier with less heat worries.
  • For the 510 connector go for one with a notched edge otherwise it WILL work free and rotate.
  • I found the need to add a battery packer block to bring the battery forward enough to allow easy removal (you can't see it in the photos as its at the back).
  • I also found I had to create a way of fixing the board from inside, this was more challenging than I thought and a bitch to screw into place.
Good luck, it was challenging but really satisfying making your own design, mine wasn't as ambitious as I hoped due to board & battery size constraints.

View attachment 210911 View attachment 210912

Looks a nice job mate.
 
I think you missed my point, mine has a screw and nut fit but it also has a flat edge machined in so it won't spin and you need to have this in your design, without it you either have to overtighten and crush the plastic or it will spin eventually.

BTW politeness costs nothing :ape:
I think u missed my point I mean the 510 that has 2 screws going through the top plate into the body of the mod to secure it in place. I think although I might be wrong they all have a large nut that screws on underneath. IMG_20200213_203249.jpg
 
I think u missed my point I mean the 510 that has 2 screws going through the top plate into the body of the mod to secure it in place. I think although I might be wrong they all have a large nut that screws on underneath. View attachment 211189

no nuts I'm afraid they are either inserts or the case itself is a tapped hole, threading plastic is very tricky the 510 is the most fragile section so a mod needs a good support some mods have the top cap screwed down but still have the cap threaded in place or press fitted or bonded in place the screws can be just for show
 
no nuts I'm afraid they are either inserts or the case itself is a tapped hole, threading plastic is very tricky the 510 is the most fragile section so a mod needs a good support some mods have the top cap screwed down but still have the cap threaded in place or press fitted or bonded in place the screws can be just for show
OK thanks so about this tab then?? Where do I incorporate it in my design? If its under the 510 in the print how do I tighten the 510 down? Do I fit an atty and tighten from the top? Can I use a thread lock? Or a nylock nut to ensure it doesn't come loose?
 
OK thanks so about this tab then?? Where do I incorporate it in my design? If its under the 510 in the print how do I tighten the 510 down? Do I fit an atty and tighten from the top? Can I use a thread lock? Or a nylock nut to ensure it doesn't come loose?

the top cap needs to recessed down by the thickness of the cap say 1mm unless its going to sit on top, most attys are locked in place with a nut on top of the negative ring but you need a 510 tightening tool if this is your first mod and you are not upto speed on making then it may be best to purchase a kit in alloy first rather than going straight for a printed mod
 
the top cap needs to recessed down by the thickness of the cap say 1mm unless its going to sit on top, most attys are locked in place with a nut on top of the negative ring but you need a 510 tightening tool if this is your first mod and you are not upto speed on making then it may be best to purchase a kit in alloy first rather than going straight for a printed mod
It's not my first mod and I have the tightening tool from mod maker. I'll incorporate a tab underneath if needed but I just need some idea on where to put it? Draw me a picture lol
 
It's not my first mod and I have the tightening tool from mod maker. I'll incorporate a tab underneath if needed but I just need some idea on where to put it? Draw me a picture lol

the three screws you mean they are tapped as in die and the tap most likely a 1.6mm or 1.8mm thread not a tab, tapped into the body of the mod i use the method if the 510 is slung low in the body of the mod
 
Or you can use self tapping screws,and drill holes a bit smaller diameter than screw.
I also use a small amount of superglue underneath the 510 before thightening and it never got unscrewed
 
I think u missed my point I mean the 510 that has 2 screws going through the top plate into the body of the mod to secure it in place. I think although I might be wrong they all have a large nut that screws on underneath. View attachment 211189

This is the method I used with a matching 510 assembly with a flat on the threaded portion from Stealthvape, the top sits into the recess and a nut underneath, I couldn't come up with a more secure method and it takes less work than a screw through method:

DNA75c Squonk Mod v2.jpg
 
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