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another kanthal question

vespa

Postman
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Dec 7, 2013
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sorry if its been covered before but whats the difference between Kanthal A and nic/chrome ? im re building kanger protank and evods. im thinking .20 size wire, any recommendations (wow that seems too long lol recomendations ? ) id be greatfull.....thanks all
 
nichrome is Nickel: 57-58%, Chromium: 16%, Silicon: 1.5%, Iron: Balance
kanthal A is
Kanthal A-1 is a ferritic iron-chromium-aluminium alloy
so basically different materials in there makeup

Kanthal forms a layer of Aluminium oxide
Nichrome forms a layer of Chromium oxide

nichrome apparently can leave a bit of a nasty aftertaste to your juice . never tried it so cant confirm.

also dont make the common mistake and mix up AWG with thickness.
i use .32 kanthal ( which is .28 AWG)
where as .20 kanthal is AWG .32 which can result in people buying the wrong one getting .32 awg thiinking thay are getting .32mm wire and ending up with very thin and very hard to use .20mm kanthal.

so i would go by thickness rather than AWG ( AWG can cover 2 or 3 thicknesses too to add confusion )
anything between .28 and .32mm thickness Kanthal A1 is generally considered the ideal to use
 
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Should go with kanthal a1 always better quality stuff

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I think nichrome is misrepresented as an inferior product but I've only used it a handful of times myself. It's what the majority of devices come coiled with and costs more to produce.

Some customers won't use kanthal as they reckon they can taste the iron

Some customers have a nickel allergy

I'm quite tempted to get another few nichrome sizes but it doesn't sell that well. I seem to remember that kanthal is more readily available in the states so the majority of forum posts about resistance wire when rebuildables first hit the scene mentioned kanthal more often. It's like how people ask for AGW sizes when ordering from us instead of mm usually because they've read about it on an American forum.

It all suits the purpose. Nichrome is certainly more managable and easier to work with

As mentioned kanthal is ferritic which means magnetic to the rest of us so a good way to check which you have is with a magnet. We sell nichrome 80 or nichrome A (80% nickel 20% chrome) which has a higher melting point and doesn't contain any iron.

Nichrome 60's resistance goes up as it's heated.

Ooh what other random wire stuff do I know. Kanthal hurts a lot more when you stab your finger with it. A lot
 
kanthal also leaves lovely track marks in your fingers when its hot too.. ouchies!
though not as bad as when you stupidly decide you want to try and turn your mech from SS to a blusih colour by heating it up with a blow torch. then have a brief moment of memory lapse as to what you were doing and try and pick the thing up. now that REALLY hurts and i still have the scar to prove it ( and the burn hole in the carpet when i dropped the thing too )
 
Trying to put out a titanium wire fire between my finger and thumb will take some beating hehe
 
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