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Could you help with my new setup? Not sure what's best for my needs..

Ok cool. I'm looking on Dna vapes now to see what they've got. I've been reading lots of forum threads and guides on here to try and learn about battery safety and stuff like that, so along with the suggestions here, I think I should be able to make some choices now :)

My next quest will be finding some good quality liquids that I can actually afford. The stuff I used to buy costed £17 for a 30ml bottle :/ No way I can afford that. Maybe I'll try mixing my own. Anyway, I'll continue searching around the forum to find more on that.

Thanks for the help!
 
Ok cool. I'm looking on Dna vapes now to see what they've got. I've been reading lots of forum threads and guides on here to try and learn about battery safety and stuff like that, so along with the suggestions here, I think I should be able to make some choices now :)

My next quest will be finding some good quality liquids that I can actually afford. The stuff I used to buy costed £17 for a 30ml bottle :/ No way I can afford that. Maybe I'll try mixing my own. Anyway, I'll continue searching around the forum to find more on that.

Thanks for the help!

Pimp up what you end up getting :D.
 
I'll post back with what I get , and I have seen that thread about liquid & hardware vendors already, so I'll be visiting it again when I buy liquid :)

Thing is, I haven't made any purchases yet haha...

I wanna get the istick Pico seeing as it was most suggested. But reading the specs for it (http://www.eleafworld.com/istick-pico-firmware-upgradeable-2/), it says "Cell type: High-rate 18650 cell
Cell type: (Continuous discharge current should be above 25A)"
. Does that mean I need to get a battery that can handle a 25+ amp draw? I plan on using the 1.2 ohm coils for the Toptank, but I'd like enough headroom to use the 0.5 ohm coils if I want to. Apparently that means I need around 8.4 amps from a battery (though I'd realisticly leave at least a couple amps headroom over that).

I'm just really concerned about battery safety so I don't wanna mess up here - hence why I haven't bought anything yet.

Thanks guys.
 
I'll post back with what I get , and I have seen that thread about liquid & hardware vendors already, so I'll be visiting it again when I buy liquid :)

Thing is, I haven't made any purchases yet haha...

I wanna get the istick Pico seeing as it was most suggested. But reading the specs for it (http://www.eleafworld.com/istick-pico-firmware-upgradeable-2/), it says "Cell type: High-rate 18650 cell
Cell type: (Continuous discharge current should be above 25A)"
. Does that mean I need to get a battery that can handle a 25+ amp draw? I plan on using the 1.2 ohm coils for the Toptank, but I'd like enough headroom to use the 0.5 ohm coils if I want to. Apparently that means I need around 8.4 amps from a battery (though I'd realisticly leave at least a couple amps headroom over that).

I'm just really concerned about battery safety so I don't wanna mess up here - hence why I haven't bought anything yet.

Thanks guys.

You don't need a 25 amp battery, lg hg2 which is a 20 amp 3000mah battery would suit your needs the most imo.

Forgot to mention I use a lg hg2 in my pico without a hint of any problems. It only says above 25 amp to cover there ass.
 
I'll post back with what I get , and I have seen that thread about liquid & hardware vendors already, so I'll be visiting it again when I buy liquid :)

Thing is, I haven't made any purchases yet haha...

I wanna get the istick Pico seeing as it was most suggested. But reading the specs for it (http://www.eleafworld.com/istick-pico-firmware-upgradeable-2/), it says "Cell type: High-rate 18650 cell
Cell type: (Continuous discharge current should be above 25A)"
. Does that mean I need to get a battery that can handle a 25+ amp draw? I plan on using the 1.2 ohm coils for the Toptank, but I'd like enough headroom to use the 0.5 ohm coils if I want to. Apparently that means I need around 8.4 amps from a battery (though I'd realisticly leave at least a couple amps headroom over that).

I'm just really concerned about battery safety so I don't wanna mess up here - hence why I haven't bought anything yet.

Thanks guys.
These will see you safe. One in and one spare. The website is one of our own apes.
http://www.checkandvape.co.uk/product/2-x-genuine-samsung-25r-with-free-carry-case
 
Yeh I thought that was probably the case, but I only just learned about ohms law recently, so I didn't wanna take any chances :/ I was thinking that something with a contious discharge rating of around 15-20 amps would probably be fine. According to this http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp, even if I ran the full 75W output of the Pico through a 0.5 ohm coil, the current would be 12.25 amps. I have a habbit of getting stuff wrong when it comes to numbers though, so thought I best ask here inacse :P

I also have that check and vape shop bookmarked :) I've seen people suggest it a lot on this forum! I was also considering using that Torchy guy's ebay page as people have mentioned it a lot too.

I'll get a 20+ amp battery just to be safe then. I found this thread also, so maybe something from there would be good: https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...tions/threads/best-batteries-for-mods.108947/

Thanks again, guys. I'm really happy about the help you all have given me seeing as I haven't really contributed much to this forum yet. Hopefully I'll be able to help some people out too once I've learned some more.
 
I know some of you are probably gonna think I'm being a bit too cautious here, but I'm serious about this battery safety stuff and have been doing a hell of a lot of searching and reading these past few days. I've discovered some new information about how regulated mods work that has really changed how I'm going to pick my box mod. And I want to post this here, even if only so people new to this stuff can learn something (so please correct me if I get anything wrong! I'm not posting this to try and be a smartass - only to educate myself and others).

So basically, doing a straight "Ohms law" calculation is suitable for unregulated/mechanical mods, but not for regulated mods (infact, the coil resistance doesn't really matter for regulated mods). So in my previous post where I said "even if I ran the full 75W output of the Pico through a 0.5 ohm coil, the current would be 12.25 amps." - I was totally wrong (the current would actually be about 26.9A!). The way to figure out the current/amp draw for a regulated mod is to divide power (Watts) by the voltage. When doing this, you need to also account for the power efficiency of the mod and battery sag (or so I read), so I add an extra 15% onto the wattage to try and be safe (it helps to know the exact power efficiency rating of the device for this calculation).

The other really important thing to know is the low voltage protection/cut-off point of the device you're using. For a lot of devices this seems to be 3.2v (some are lower - so check!).

So for example: If you have a battery rated for a 20A continuous draw, you should be safe using it on a regulated mod with output power up to about 50W (factoring in an extra 15% to watts for safety, and assuming the mod has a 3.2 low voltage protection/cut-off point).
Calculation: (50W + 15% =) 57.5W / 3.2v (low voltage cut-off point) = 17.9A (leavs a nice 2A approximate headroom for a 20A battery).

Here's a post on Reddit explaining in more detail (it also links to another post about it): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...nt_draw_on_regulated/?st=isy1hg0p&sh=b4e52980

Now based on all I've read these past few days, I want to get either LG HG2 (probably these for their higher capacity) or Samsung 25R batteries. Both are rated for 20A continuous draw. I could use one of these batteries with a single 18650 battery mod like the istick pico (75W) and just make sure I don't run it above approximately 50W, sure. But I like setting things up for worst case scenario to be safe, and I know safety is paramount on these vaping forums... right? :) So if that Pico accidentally fired on the full 75W setting, it would be very dangerous for my 20A battery. Now I can totally see why Eleaf recommend a battery above 25A! They certainly are playing it safe, and so am I.


So... I figure I have two choices here. I can get something like the iStick TC100W dual battery regulated mod which should not exceed the amperage draw of two of these batteries, even if fired at 100W (according to my calcs). But then I'd have to deal with rotating batteries after each charge, and I would prefer not to need to bother with that. Or, I can get a single battery regulated mod with a limit of 50W (or one where you can set your own Wattage limit).

Do you guys have any suggestions for a good 50W regulated mod which takes a single, replaceable 18650 battery?

And please - do go ahead and correct me if I've gotten anything wrong. Again, this is just about safety and education for myself and others. That's all. Thanks Apes :)
 
Can I say what a breathe of fresh air your posts have been.
I am by no means the most knowledgeable member on here but i (and I'm sure somebody else will correct me) believe regulated mods by their very nature have safety features to prevent failure. Your mod would have to fire consistently at 75w ie finger on fire button, but the mod will/should cut power after 10s (safety feature on all regulated mods as far as I'm aware)
i have 2 50w mods but have never run them higher than about 30w as they're my work mods, so can't be blowing like a chimney all day. My higher powered atties go on a Cuboid (150w) & soon an RX2/3. I haven't ventured much above 50w on the Cuboid as I'm still finding out my limits (flavour over heat).
 
Can I say what a breathe of fresh air your posts have been.
I am by no means the most knowledgeable member on here but i (and I'm sure somebody else will correct me) believe regulated mods by their very nature have safety features to prevent failure. Your mod would have to fire consistently at 75w ie finger on fire button, but the mod will/should cut power after 10s (safety feature on all regulated mods as far as I'm aware)
i have 2 50w mods but have never run them higher than about 30w as they're my work mods, so can't be blowing like a chimney all day. My higher powered atties go on a Cuboid (150w) & soon an RX2/3. I haven't ventured much above 50w on the Cuboid as I'm still finding out my limits (flavour over heat).

No worries, and thanks :)

Well as I understand it, a regulated mod has no way of knowing what the continuous amp rating of your battery is, so it can't adjust for that. It's up to you to use the right battery that can handle the full wattage capability of the device (hence why the makers of these 75W single battery mods are recommending batteries with a continuous amp rating above 25A). The 10s safety cut-off probably wouldn't be enough in this siutation, because it could well be too long for the battery to handle that amperage drain. From what I've read, the "Safe pulse discharge" rating of a battery is not really something to go by, as the methods manufacturers use to test is uncertain (it's just what I've read). Still, if for example we want to look at the stated Safe pulse discharge rating of the Samsung 25R to judge: 95A < 0.5 sec, 65A < 1 sec, 40A < 5 sec, 30A < 6 sec (according to: https://batterybro.com/products/samsung-25r-inr1865025r-2500mah-20a), it's still looking like 10 seconds might be bad news.

Again - I might be wrong! I'm not trying to speak as any authority here, but instead just use info I've dug up to see if I can figure this stuff out.

It looks like 75W seems to be pretty standard for these single 18650 replaceable battery mods, so it might be that I'll have to get one and just be careful about the wattage setting. I just find it a bit weird that there's none more suited to 20A batteries seeing as the most popular recommended batteries are 20A, as far as I can tell..
 
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