Tubbyengineer
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- Joined
- Aug 20, 2013
- Messages
- 10,602
Just a quick post to let you know that I think I've come up with a fix for the "Wandering Ohms" issue on the Kayfun 4. I appreciate that it's not a big problem when using Kanthal builds as 0.1 to 0.2 Ohms variation isn't that big a deal when using a regulated mod.
However for those people using Mechs or those using Nickel temp control builds that 0.1 ohms variation can throw things out of whack.
I have tried several routes to fix this and the best solution seems to be to modify the spring.
You'll need either some lead free solder or a pair of pliers and a little patience. The aim is to decrease the diameter of on end of the spring so that it push fits onto the central airflow post (around the outside of the bit with the airflow screw). This improves the connection massively and ensures a fairly stable reading.
I have tried both the solder method - use a little solder on the last coil of the sring to thicken it so that it fits tightly, and the crimp method - reshaping the final coil of the spring so that it narrows the diameter and again causes the spring to fit tightly. Both seem to work just as well but the solder method is easier on the original silver plated spring and the crimp method is easier on the clones chromed springs.
Both methods will reduce the variation to the odd 0.01 - usually when opening and closing the juice control, once it's been moved the reading will usually settle at the new level and stay there. Hopefully this will be a permanent solution as I've now been running it for a fortnight on my original and it seems to be just fine, no issues and my KF 4 is finally the atty I want it to be...
However for those people using Mechs or those using Nickel temp control builds that 0.1 ohms variation can throw things out of whack.
I have tried several routes to fix this and the best solution seems to be to modify the spring.
You'll need either some lead free solder or a pair of pliers and a little patience. The aim is to decrease the diameter of on end of the spring so that it push fits onto the central airflow post (around the outside of the bit with the airflow screw). This improves the connection massively and ensures a fairly stable reading.
I have tried both the solder method - use a little solder on the last coil of the sring to thicken it so that it fits tightly, and the crimp method - reshaping the final coil of the spring so that it narrows the diameter and again causes the spring to fit tightly. Both seem to work just as well but the solder method is easier on the original silver plated spring and the crimp method is easier on the clones chromed springs.
Both methods will reduce the variation to the odd 0.01 - usually when opening and closing the juice control, once it's been moved the reading will usually settle at the new level and stay there. Hopefully this will be a permanent solution as I've now been running it for a fortnight on my original and it seems to be just fine, no issues and my KF 4 is finally the atty I want it to be...