My first mod fail ( I need serious help)

[jock1092]

You can skip my rant and go straight to the questions if wanted.
So been struggling to kick the cigs and though hey if I can keep myself busy for a bit one morning I should make it the first day.
Opted to build a parrallel unregulated hammond box.
Well...
Ordered all my parts and waited patiently, bought a solder iron, new drill bits and a vice clamp and ordered nice solder wire and flux.
Everything but the solder and flux arrived yesterday so I went to a local shop and got some cheap solder.
Managed to fit the switch a little too low and couldnt for the battery sled, kill my mosfet, and just generally make a huge mess.
Going to order a new mosfet and case now.
Questions
1. What wire should I be using? I have 14 gauge multi core or salvaged 16 gauge single core.
2 I'm not a good hand with solder as it seems. Any tips?
3 anyone willing the help out with any general tips for a new mod maker?

 

[tommywho5150]

I've always used flux-cored solder without any issues. As for wire, the thicker the better 10 or 12 gauge would be my choice and get some glue lined heatshrink tubing for the solder joints. It keeps things looking neat and adds a layer of insulation.

And as for Mosfets, I've never bothered.

 

[9668harry]

Have a look on mod maker.

http://www.modmaker.co.uk

Not only can you get everything you need, there's some great guides on there that will point you in the right direction.

 

[doobedoobedo]

Was the solder leaded or lead free?

Lead free solder can be a huge PITA to work with.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Was the solder leaded or lead free?

Lead free solder can be a huge PITA to work with.

This just made me wonder something, a while ago I wanted to replace a Li-Po in an enclosure and it needed soldering.

I managed to solder it in, but there was a problem with the board I was unaware of and thought it was the battery. I had run out of the original solder, so used lead free, and it was a disaster.

It would not stick where I wanted it too, and was just running off of the surfaces-do you think this could of been down to being lead free, or another issue was happening here?

 

[jock1092]

I got everything at modmaker and was using the diagrams but it was lead free solder I thought it seemed way harder than last time I soldered stuff.
Mosfet is just for the choice of switches I want an on/off as well as fire switch.
Thanks for the advice next time I'll use the flux core lead solder I was too impatient to wait for....

 

[9668harry]

Roughing up the surface a little can help when soldering things like battery tray contacts and stainless steel parts etc. Also preheating the surface of the part with the iron before attempting to solder helps (where possible). I usually put a little solder on the iron and hold on the tip on the part that I'm going to solder for a few seconds and then apply a bit more solder to the iron and introduce the wire. A higher power soldering iron can also be beneficial when soldering thicker materials. The little 25w irons can make soldering anything other then wire to wire a little tricky (not impossible though).

 

[jock1092]

Roughing up the surface a little can help when soldering things like battery tray contacts and stainless steel parts etc. Also preheating the surface of the part with the iron before attempting to solder helps (where possible). I usually put a little solder on the iron and hold on the tip on the part that I'm going to solder for a few seconds and then apply a bit more solder to the iron and introduce the wire. A higher power soldering iron can also be beneficial when soldering thicker materials. The little 25w irons can make soldering anything other then wire to wire a little tricky (not impossible though).

I think the soldering is where I need most help tbh I have a 30w iron but I admit I'm less than a novice at it. I'll give that a shot and will be practicing until my new box and battery compartment arrive.

 

[doobedoobedo]

Low power iron + thick wires + lead free solder is not a recipe for success. Lead free solder has a much higher melting point than leaded and doesn't wet the joints as well.

Get yourself some Sn63/Pb37 solder and use plenty of flux.