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noob to vaping and temp control - advice please :)

damob9k

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Jan 10, 2016
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Hi All,

Been vaping for nearly a whole two months now !! my usual style of doing anything new is to throw myself into the deep end and see what happens :)

So i've moved on from my Vamo V7 to a IPV4s and want to give temp control a go.
I have two UD Goblin Mini's and a Wotofo Sapor, and am imminently going to purchase a SnapDragon based on the good and helpfully advise from Kannon and stevoknevo.

As you can probably guess from my device selection, I am more interested in flavour than cloud production.

I have read and watched many tutorials regarding temp control, and have come to the conclusion that Titanium is the way to go.
I'm just not sure on exactly what set-up configuration I should be going for.
I have been building my kanthal coils (dual) to about .4 ohms, 2.5mm ID and running my mod at 30-40 watts generally.
But I see in most posts talking about titanium coils, . 00x to .02 ohms seems to be the range.

I also see that StealthVape only have 24g titanium wire and mention about quality / impurities in other gauges (which they currently do not stock) but other suppliers have stock of 24/26/28 gauge wire .... should I be concerned about this ? or are SV being over cautious (which is fully understandable being that they are a reputable company)

So ... could someone recommend to me what setup and gauge of wire to get, and would one setup suite all my attys (bearing in mind the restrictiveness of the Goblin Mini deck) or should I be doing different builds for my RTA's and RDA's ?

Sorry for all the noob questions :)

Many thanks
DamoB
 
I have read and watched many tutorials regarding temp control, and have come to the conclusion that Titanium is the way to go.

It's certainly better than Ni200. I would recommend trying stealthvape's NiFe30 as well.

But I see in most posts talking about titanium coils, . 00x to .02 ohms seems to be the range.

You really need to be above 0.10 Ohm for reliable performance. 0.15 - 0.20 Ohm with Ti is plenty.

Here is a thread about resistance and temp sensing that compares different wires:
https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...threads/tc-accuracy-and-wire-selection.87131/

I also see that StealthVape only have 24g titanium wire and mention about quality / impurities in other gauges (which they currently do not stock) but other suppliers have stock of 24/26/28 gauge wire .... should I be concerned about this ? or are SV being over cautious (which is fully understandable being that they are a reputable company)

I personally don't like Ti because it's springy and you usually need to clean a load of black dust (I read this is graphite dust) off the wire. Anything from stealthvape will be top quality guaranteed, but lots of people use Ti from all sorts of suppliers. Different people will give you different advice - I personally just use NiFe30 and NiFe48 instead.

So ... could someone recommend to me what setup and gauge of wire to get, and would one setup suite all my attys (bearing in mind the restrictiveness of the Goblin Mini deck) or should I be doing different builds for my RTA's and RDA's ?

If I were you, I'd put the build you want to do into steam engine's wire wizard calculator, then choose a gauge that will land you around 0.15 Ohm or higher (and certainly not under 0.10 Ohm). 24g will be a bit tricky for duals on a small deck.

Here's an informational thread about Ti building:
https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...ing/threads/working-with-titanium-wire.82830/
 
It's certainly better than Ni200. I would recommend trying stealthvape's NiFe30 as well.



You really need to be above 0.10 Ohm for reliable performance. 0.15 - 0.20 Ohm with Ti is plenty.

Here is a thread about resistance and temp sensing that compares different wires:
https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...threads/tc-accuracy-and-wire-selection.87131/



I personally don't like Ti because it's springy and you usually need to clean a load of black dust (I read this is graphite dust) off the wire. Anything from stealthvape will be top quality guaranteed, but lots of people use Ti from all sorts of suppliers. Different people will give you different advice - I personally just use NiFe30 and NiFe48 instead.



If I were you, I'd put the build you want to do into steam engine's wire wizard calculator, then choose a gauge that will land you around 0.15 Ohm or higher (and certainly not under 0.10 Ohm). 24g will be a bit tricky for duals on a small deck.

Here's an informational thread about Ti building:
https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...ing/threads/working-with-titanium-wire.82830/
Thanks danb, you quite clearly know your sh 1 t with this stuff, very interesting read.
I will indeed have a play with steam engine and see if i can work out the best build for my various atomisers .... BTW just taken the plunge a bought a SnapDragon v1.5 yay :)
Thanks again
DamoB
 
Hi danb, I have read all of the linked and a few that I have found elsewhere pages of information and tried to do my best to understand it all !
But there is one part that I don't see much said about and that is what is the maximum resistance you can go to ...
So, as you said earlier "you really need to be above 0.10 Ohm for reliable performance. 0.15 - 0.20 Ohm with Ti is plenty." but what are the implications of running at around .3 to .4 ? will things not work as well as far as the temp control is concerned ?
I'm just thinking about the higher amperage drain on my batteries and how much of an effect on the battery life there is between .15 and .4 ohms ?
Sorry again if these are stupid questions, I can't say I have a 100% grasp on the magical forces of electrickery :)

Cheers

DamoB
 
Hi danb, I have read all of the linked and a few that I have found elsewhere pages of information and tried to do my best to understand it all !
But there is one part that I don't see much said about and that is what is the maximum resistance you can go to ...
So, as you said earlier "you really need to be above 0.10 Ohm for reliable performance. 0.15 - 0.20 Ohm with Ti is plenty." but what are the implications of running at around .3 to .4 ? will things not work as well as far as the temp control is concerned ?
I'm just thinking about the higher amperage drain on my batteries and how much of an effect on the battery life there is between .15 and .4 ohms ?
Sorry again if these are stupid questions, I can't say I have a 100% grasp on the magical forces of electrickery :)

Cheers

DamoB
You need to have a little play with SteamEngine too ... and see how many wraps you'd need of such low res wires to achieve 0.3 and 0.4ohms. :)
After that, check the operable TC range of your mod.
 
You need to have a little play with SteamEngine too ... and see how many wraps you'd need of such low res wires to achieve 0.3 and 0.4ohms. :)
After that, check the operable TC range of your mod.

Thanks scrumpox, yep done a fair bit of playing with steam engine, and my mod works from 0.12 to 1.0 Ohm with Titanium, but I guess what i'm trying to ask in my round about way is: is there a specific reason to be around the .15 range rather than .3 or .4 ? - if i'm happy with the way my atties vape at that range with kanthal (.4) then can I run with titanium at the same range and all will be well ?
The only reason I'm querying this because all the talk seems to be of running at .15 to .2 and i'm just wanting to know why this is so, is this just the best way to run titanium or is it because you guys like to run low resistance to create mahoosive clouds ? :)

Also when doing the calcs for working out what is the best wire to use, how many winds is it best to target for titanium dual coils ?

Thanks again

DamoB
 
No, I don't think 0.15 is a target because of cloudage. As with a lot of building there are compromises to make and constraints to work within. The amount of space in the atty is one of them, there's only so long that a spaced coil (usually favoured for TC) can be made to fit. Danb's piece on stability is informative, it tells us not to drop the ohms too low. So we're not chasing the lowest ohmage that we can.

If I wanted to put a Titanium dual coil 0.3ohm build into the Aromamizer or an RDA, it would be 16/15 spaced wraps of 2.5mm ID, 26gauge. Will it fit without shorting, or leave enough room to wick it? That said, it's all about your prefered vape and if you fancy it, give it a go by all means. I have no idea if there's a min or max number of wraps, or even if there's an ideal ... the constraint is space on the build deck and the width of airflow to get a build working well. Not much benefit hanging a coil over an air hole that's only 20-25% of its length.

Cloud chasers don't choose TC, that's a completely different game altogether. They wouldn't want a mod or its firmware constraining them. With TC I believe we're trying primarily to avoid burning the juice, so it's flavour chasing if it has to be labelled as something.

I have two types of mod; the iPV D2s top out at 0.3ohm for TC, the Tesla runs TC to 1.0ohm. Interestingly, you can lock in 0.3ohm on the D2s and they stay in TC mode despite the ohms climbing as the temp rises.

Sorry, that's a long old train of thought ... the answer is no, we don't really aim for the lowest ohms just to create clouds. :)
 
Thanks scrumpox, I get what you are saying regarding there being no perfect fit.

I should of made the connection to TC guys not being cloud chasers, my bad :) hope you're not too offended :2thumbsup:

So my best bet is to go buy a couple of gauges of Ti and just have a play and see what happens.

One last question ... I've read that TC uses more battery power than fixed watts on kanthal, is this correct and is the difference drastic or negate-able ?

Cheers
 
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