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RBA vs pre-built - Please explain

Got you. Thanks for explaining.

On a typical RTA/RDA, does the current come from both sides to the coil, or just one side? Perhaps different ones do different things?
Obviously it needs to have contact on both ends, sure. But I mean just the current? Both or one?


Also, do you steep your liquids?
I've started to put mine in zip lock bags and put them in hot water. Replacing the water as it cools, for about 2-3hours. Then I shake them and leave them stood with the tops off for 3-4hrs. I find it intensifies the flavour a lot. I've read that some people leave them out with the lids off for like 1-2 weeks. I can't wait that long to try new flavours lol.
My new ones just arrived and I have them in the hot water now.


Fruit flavours don't tend to need much steeping. Mostly they're pretty much shake and vape but generally steeping is always a good thing to allow the flavours have time mix together and mature to bring the flavours out properly. I have my own rotation system so everything gets well steeped so I never need to worry about it.
 
Oh yeah the guy on the phone advised that I tried this, that and the other and "I have a sale on right now for xxx". One of the coils he recommended was "Coils by Scott". I had a look but ordered handmade coils from elsewhere that were cheaper than his.

Yes the juice. I've been using the same juice for the last 2 weeks. Black cherry and raspberry by Kingston. I love it. It's my favourite for an all-day vape.
Expecting delivery today of lemon meringue, apple crumble and New York cheesecake. Looking forward to trying them.

I also didn't like the Juggernauts. At all. Not one bit. I found it gave an odd taste to the liquid for some reason.
My favourite so far is tri-core clapton and stainless steel mesh. I'm wondering because I liked stainless steel mesh a lot more than kanthal mesh, maybe I would like stainless steel coils more than ni80 coils? I hear SS is suitable for both wattage mode and temp control mode?

One thing, what is it that defines the resistance of the coils? How tightly they are wound? The density or mix of the metal? The core count?

On the resistance question - every type of wire used in vaping is resistance wire that will heat up as the electrical current runs through it, and each type of wire and every different gauge of wire will have a different resistance.

if you take the 3 most used wire types - Kasnthal, Ni80 and SS316L - if you take the same gauge wire from each you will find Kanthal has the highest resistance per foot, SS316L will be approximately half of the resistance of the Kanthal and Ni80 will sit somewhere in the middle.

What this means in practice if you make 3 identicsl coils from each of these metals and the SS316L coil reads 0.20 ohms, the Ni80 coil will be around the 0.30 ohms mark and the Kanthal coil will be somewhere around 0.40. Although they will have the same mass your mod will have to provide double the voltage to the kanthal coil than it would send to the SS316L to achieve the same wattage vape.

To use SS316L and Kanthal as an example again if you want to make a 0.20 ohm resistance coil from each metal you would have to use much thicker wire in the kanthal coil - so the Kanthal coil will end up being much larger than the SS316l coil and, although your mod will send exactly the same voltage to the coil to achieve the same wattage vape because of the identical resistance the Kanthal coil will take longer heat up because it contains more metal and have approximately double the overall mass. Ni80 will sit somewhere in the middle and will ramp up faster than the kanthal, but slower than the SS316L, and the size of the coil will also be inbetween the two.

With regulated mods that can automatically adjust the voltage sent to the 510 to achieve the wattage you desire to vape at the different resistances of the metal is seldom a problem as the mod has buck/boost circuitry to automatically adjust the volts for you.

But there are limitations - if you take that ni80 3-26/36 clapton coil that is 0.21 ohms for example. If you use it in dual coil mode the resistance of the build will be 0.10 to 0.11. Most mods will fire these coils happily, but if you take the same coil made from SS316L means the lower resistance of a dual build will be under 0.10 ohms, probably in the 0.07 to 0.08 range and your mod could refuse to fire the coils because it considers the resistance way too low for safety.

You can have similar problems when the resistance is too high if you use multi wrap series Kanthal builds. But it is highly unlikely you will come across this as the only remaining vapers that still vape dual 10 wrap 24/36 Ka1 at high wattage is me and my invisible friend.

SS316L and Ni80 can be used in wattage mode - I like SS316L in wattage mode for fruit flavours, but I prefer NI80 for deserts and jams - but, again, that is just my preference YMMV.
 
Going back to @Crispycritters point about giving youself time to judge how well your build performs I'd suggest getting yourself a dripper.

Having only just got my Dead Rabbit 3 last Wednesday I'm really liking the fact that every time I drip on it I get to see what the build looks like after a few days vaping on it and also see how well it's holding its flavour.

I've also had a look round at other drippers and I'm really liking the look of the Wotofo Recurve v2 RDA so that might be one of the next things on my shopping list.
 
Going back to @Crispycritters point about giving youself time to judge how well your build performs I'd suggest getting yourself a dripper.

Having only just got my Dead Rabbit 3 last Wednesday I'm really liking the fact that every time I drip on it I get to see what the build looks like after a few days vaping on it and also see how well it's holding its flavour.

I've also had a look round at other drippers and I'm really liking the look of the Wotofo Recurve v2 RDA so that might be one of the next things on my shopping list.
V101 has the recurve v2 at a tenner
 
If you check the competitions, charities and giveaways thread there's one going with no takers so far.
 
V101 has the recurve v2 at a tenner

I spotted that a in the last couple of hours but sadly they're saying they've all sold out.


If you check the competitions, charities and giveaways thread there's one going with no takers so far.

Thanks for letting me know that. I'm not gonna go for it though, mainly because I'm currently already benefitting from the current giveaway for a Hotcig Squonk mod so I wouldn't like to be trying to grab two giveaways at the same time. I think it's also the v1 and I was really interested in trying the updated airflow of the v2.
 
Giveaway you say? Where can I find that? Is it a competition or something? You put your name down and one is drawn?
 
On the resistance question - every type of wire used in vaping is resistance wire that will heat up as the electrical current runs through it, and each type of wire and every different gauge of wire will have a different resistance.

if you take the 3 most used wire types - Kasnthal, Ni80 and SS316L - if you take the same gauge wire from each you will find Kanthal has the highest resistance per foot, SS316L will be approximately half of the resistance of the Kanthal and Ni80 will sit somewhere in the middle.

What this means in practice if you make 3 identicsl coils from each of these metals and the SS316L coil reads 0.20 ohms, the Ni80 coil will be around the 0.30 ohms mark and the Kanthal coil will be somewhere around 0.40. Although they will have the same mass your mod will have to provide double the voltage to the kanthal coil than it would send to the SS316L to achieve the same wattage vape.

To use SS316L and Kanthal as an example again if you want to make a 0.20 ohm resistance coil from each metal you would have to use much thicker wire in the kanthal coil - so the Kanthal coil will end up being much larger than the SS316l coil and, although your mod will send exactly the same voltage to the coil to achieve the same wattage vape because of the identical resistance the Kanthal coil will take longer heat up because it contains more metal and have approximately double the overall mass. Ni80 will sit somewhere in the middle and will ramp up faster than the kanthal, but slower than the SS316L, and the size of the coil will also be inbetween the two.

With regulated mods that can automatically adjust the voltage sent to the 510 to achieve the wattage you desire to vape at the different resistances of the metal is seldom a problem as the mod has buck/boost circuitry to automatically adjust the volts for you.

But there are limitations - if you take that ni80 3-26/36 clapton coil that is 0.21 ohms for example. If you use it in dual coil mode the resistance of the build will be 0.10 to 0.11. Most mods will fire these coils happily, but if you take the same coil made from SS316L means the lower resistance of a dual build will be under 0.10 ohms, probably in the 0.07 to 0.08 range and your mod could refuse to fire the coils because it considers the resistance way too low for safety.

You can have similar problems when the resistance is too high if you use multi wrap series Kanthal builds. But it is highly unlikely you will come across this as the only remaining vapers that still vape dual 10 wrap 24/36 Ka1 at high wattage is me and my invisible friend.

SS316L and Ni80 can be used in wattage mode - I like SS316L in wattage mode for fruit flavours, but I prefer NI80 for deserts and jams - but, again, that is just my preference YMMV.

Very detailed explanation. Thank you man. I understand.

My mod had temp control modes for different metals. I tried it yesterday on the Ni80 mode. I hit the button for a split sec to see what wattage and voltage it applied and it hit like 130w lol. So I didn't bother with it again. What things are suitable for TC mode? Is it for single coils really?
 
Going back to @Crispycritters point about giving youself time to judge how well your build performs I'd suggest getting yourself a dripper.

Having only just got my Dead Rabbit 3 last Wednesday I'm really liking the fact that every time I drip on it I get to see what the build looks like after a few days vaping on it and also see how well it's holding its flavour.

I've also had a look round at other drippers and I'm really liking the look of the Wotofo Recurve v2 RDA so that might be one of the next things on my shopping list.

Dripper as in an RDA? My Aromamizer Supreme doubles up as an RDA. I just have to take the chimney and glass off it and it's an RDA.
 
Very detailed explanation. Thank you man. I understand.

My mod had temp control modes for different metals. I tried it yesterday on the Ni80 mode. I hit the button for a split sec to see what wattage and voltage it applied and it hit like 130w lol. So I didn't bother with it again. What things are suitable for TC mode? Is it for single coils really?

Ni80 is not a TC wire - the only Nickel Wire you can use with TC is Ni200.

Generally most TC vapers will use regular round wire builds. The mixed sized wires of complex coils used in the inner and outer wraps can heat up at different rates so even the most sophisticated boards can have severe problems monitoring them. With SS316L wires you need to build to a minimum resistance and keep above 0.3 ohms - preferably above 0.40 - other than that I know very little. JohnR is probably our resident TC expert and is probably the guy to ask.

I know little but I do know Ni80 doesn't work - tried it myself, got it wrong lol.
 
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