The 3d printing thread

[outlawcox]

Whut @peps1 sed. Use programs like Sketchup, OpenSCAD or Designspark Mechanical to design something, export it to STL, then open it up in a slicing program like Slic3r, Cura or Simplify3D (S3D is a paid for software, ~£100, but soooo worth it), get your correct settings and export the GCode, This can either be put on to a SD card if your printer has a reader or streamed using the slicing software or control software like Repetier Host or Pronterface. My CTCForge*, runs on SD, my Migbot Prusas stream off of a Raspeberry Pi using Octoprint, which is browser based control software.

My workflow is generally design using OpenSCAD, export to STL, import into Simplify3D, get the correct settings, export the GCode and save to either the SD for the CTCForge or upload to the Pi for the Migbots.

*The CTCForge is a modified CTC Replicator that now has Flashforge guts, as a note, stay away from CTC, unless you want to throw about the same amount of money at it again...

i am quite set on a prusas I'm not very keen on the look of the boxed in printers and most of what i have read and watched about the ctc has put me off them.
the raspberry pi with octoprint was in the i3 package i was looking at. would something like S3D go on the raspberry pi swell?

 

[peps1]

would something like S3D go on the raspberry pi swell?

No, Simplify3D wont go on the Pi, but you could (and probably should) use Simplify3D to slice your STL file on your PC, and then send the Gcode to Octoprint, rather then using Octoprints less powerful built in slicer.

That is one of the many handy things about Octoprint, it can slice STL files for you, or Just send pre sliced G code to the printer for you.

You got to think of Octoprint as part of the printer, rather then a computer connected to the printer, so your workflow is PC>Octoprint>Printer.

(Fitting a Pi with Octoprint and a camera to my printer right now).

 

[outlawcox]

thanks @peps1 sorry for all the simpleton questions

 

[peps1]

thanks @peps1 sorry for all the simpleton questions

No need to say sorry, we are here to help!

Ask away!

 

[julesvapes]

Thanks for that Pepsi, but the motor is actually working but it is vibrating like hell! If I set it up to pull through 100mm at 100mm/minute it pulls through anything from 35mm to 65mm. So not consistent! But I will check the driver connections just in case

 

[peps1]

Thanks for that Pepsi, but the motor is actually working but it is vibrating like hell! If I set it up to pull through 100mm at 100mm/minute it pulls through anything from 35mm to 65mm. So not consistent! But I will check the driver connections just in case

Sounds like the drive gear slipping on the filament, are you passing filament just through the motor and bowden tube, or through the hot end too?

Have you double checked that the little grub screw that holds the gear on the stepper is screwed down tight?

Dose it make a CHUNK CHUNK CHUNK noise as it trys to feed the filament?

 

[julesvapes]

That's exactly what it sounds like! But it's not! The drive gear is not slipping either on the spindle or the larger gear. And it was just to feed it into the Bowden tube!

It is definitely the motor , I took it off the extruder assembly and run it on its own with out any gears attached and it still makes exactly the same noise you are describing!


Still not regretting getting getting the delta yet!

I am
Very impressed with both the kit and the online build manual, the only thing I am struggling with is getting my Mac to recognise it. Windows on boot camp on the same Mac is fine

 

[outlawcox]

Just had a tech nerd just show me what looks like an awesome bit of kit it's called a Wanhao D5s mini has anyone got or used one? I appreciate he is trying to help but is this type of printer a tad to advanced for a first 3D printer? Also does having a printer in a cabinet improve the printers performance? I've noticed quite a few people have built cabinets for their printers

 

[peps1]

Just had a tech nerd just show me what looks like an awesome bit of kit it's called a Wanhao D5s mini has anyone got or used one? I appreciate he is trying to help but is this type of printer a tad to advanced for a first 3D printer? Also does having a printer in a cabinet improve the printers performance? I've noticed quite a few people have built cabinets for their printers

I know the Wanhao range quite well, and have one of their printers.

The 5s and 5s mini are much more aimed at industrial use for rapid prototyping large strong models FAST.

Their entry level is called the 4S, and then they have the i3 (the i3 is aimed a little more at people who have used a 3D printer before, or are happy to tinker with it to get the best results, and despite being cheaper, when configured right will out preform the D4 and 5s on print quality, subject to the person using it).

The i3 is excellent for a single person who can tweak stuff and print some modifications for it, the D4 is really good for things like schools where lots of people are going to use it out the box and not do any custom work, and the 5s is good for company that need to prototype parts fast and larger then normal print beds will allow, and the 5s mini is good for people who want a smaller form 5s for rapid prototyping, rather then high detail.

Cabinets (enclosed printers) have 3 main purposes, to keep the noise in, keep the heat in , and make venting smells away more easy.

The noise issue is not a big one for me, I don't find my open frame printer loud, but I don't sleep in the same room as it......I guess that could be annoying?

I dont have a issue with the smell, PLA smells like popcorn to me when printing, PETG has no smell, and ABS has a slight chemical smell to it, and some people get head aches printing ABS without ventilation.

The heat issue is a little less relevant now days, but up in till recently the only plastic people have been printing strong, heat resistant parts with was call ABS (same stuff lego is made off). ABS shrinks as it cools down, so without an enclosed heated chamber the print could cool to fast and start lifting off the bed and warping, and larger prints could even start pulling apart halfway up the model called delamination (though its worth saying people can and do print smaller ABS prints on open printers with no trouble at all, @ax has done some excellent ABS prints without a heated chamber)

Having a heated enclosed chamber kept the ABS near to its glass temperature till the print had finished allowing it to cool and shrink evenly.

But, ABS is dying out as a filament with new plastics like Polyethylene terephthalate and Copolyester (PETG/PET+/TGlass/colorFabb_XT) taking its place.....this shrinks much less when cooling, and as a result don't need to be printed in enclosed heated chambers.

 

[outlawcox]

I thought it looked a bit to advanced for me lol I think it would be best for me to just stick with something like a Prusas i3