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The 3d printing thread

@andy3434 If I was just getting into 3D printing I would not start with a CoreXY ( like the FB2020 or D-Bot), don't get me wrong the FB2020 is a awesome design, but building from the ground up mean you need to learn every element of 3D printing from control boards,stepper drivers, firmware, hot end, stepper motors and mechanical nuances of every part.

Where as a good solid i3 printer will get you going without a huge investment of time and money, and alow you to learn as you go, and print upgrades, even to the point of printing parts another printer like a CoreXY when you have more of an idea of what your going to print and what specifications you need.

I pimp this printer out a lot, but I think best value for money printer is still the Wanhao Duplicator i3, the steel frame and huge community around the printer make it a awesome pick for someone new to 3D printing (have 2 and a CoreXY, and my Wanhao Duplicator i3 with a few quite a few mods that I have in a cheap enclosure got from IKEA get the most use by far).
 
..but building from the ground up mean you need to learn every element of 3D printing from control boards,stepper drivers, firmware, hot end, stepper motors and mechanical nuances of every part.

It does mean you learn how to fix something if you go wrong, it really depends on what @andy3434 wants.

If you're willing to learn (The FB2020 kits are just big Meccano at the end of it), there's no real reason not to get a CoreXY. Tbh, there's no real difference between Cartesian, CoreXY and Delta at the end of it, it's just the way they move and they all have their quirks, I have all 3, designed and built from the ground up. Tbh the FB is no worse than putting a Prusa Kit together, if bought direct from me (https://www.axmod3dprint.com) as most of the hard stuff is done already. The Difference between putting FB2020 kit together or a Prusa i3 MK2 kit together isn't really much. The FB2020+ has a bigger Z Axis, 270mm, compared to the FB2020 which is 170mm.

As a note, I'm not on here that much, if you have queries drop me an e-mail at [email protected]
 
Looking at getting a 3D printer, could anyone recommend some software for a Mac.

Thank you in advance
 
Alright boys and girls. Stumbled across this forum (specifically this thread). Looks interesting. Figured I'd join the conversation.

I've been printing for a while now, but only got on vaping since 3 months back. Had enough of fags and what a difference vaping has made.

Kicked off with some prefab coil ello mini tanks on eleaf pico mods. Now running a Kylin on a wismec rx gen3.

Quickly knocked a wire spool holder together for winding and whatnot. Got frustrated pretty quickly with a CapriSun box using a pencil jammed through it as a spool holder :P.

It's a bit of a beast at 400g of ABS but there's 4 tank mounts on the back (which between me and the wife means we can mount every tank we own on it ). 6 spools, 2 extra wide. Each spool's wire is retained with 3 loom bands (cheap, ubiquitous, left over from the daughters fad hence pink) and there's also a bit of a pipe cleaner stuffed in each spools slot to prevent backspin.

Seems to work. Printed with no bottom layers so when it was finished I could fill it with sand then blank off the bottom with some resin. Not taken her for a test drive yet but the dry fit feels good. Weighs a tonne filled with sand so it doesn't walk about when you're winding out some wire.

Designed on sketchup, sliced in simplify3D, squirted it out on my Ultimaker 2+. Pictures attached (I hope).

CJ
 

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Here she is, fresh off the print bed, gonna be a bit of a monster!

CJ
 

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Lol so is it going to have the insides of a wismec predator. You know the whole aliens va predator thing.

Looks very cool

Thanks man! Not sure on all the available internals yet. Fairly new to the game. Opted for a DNA 75 (as they're fairly well used I think and their technical drawings are pretty accurate). Tempted with a DNA 250 as I vape at about 100w on my Kylin, maybe I'll just do a single coil build. But as it's my first project, if I mess up the board trying to tap into the LED pins I've not lost £70, just £35 :P

Postie's been and I got al the gubbins for the inside today. Still got to figure out how I'm wiring the LED's but the DNA 75 has an RGB LED under the onboard fire button so I'll see if I can grab the pre resistor traces off of them. Run em through some transistors with a cap sink so when you fire the LED's fade in and out, not just switching with the fire button.

Anyways I made a build thread on it so I don't clog up this one. I'll post the printing related parts of it here though if anyone's interested.

Settings on the shell were:
0.4mm nozzle
0.1mm Z height
55 mm/sec average speed
35% infill full hexagonal pattern
Custom support layout (love simplify 3D for that). But average 55 deg. overhang.
Bed at 60 deg for layer 1 then 50 deg
Nozzle 235 deg at layer 1 then 230 deg
Fans 0% layer 1, 50% layer 2, 100% layer 3 onward.
2.85mm filament diameter (average taken from spool)
24.5 hours of print time
4 bottom layers
6 top layers
2 shells

Printed in silver PLA/PHA from colorfabb (would have done black but I didn't have enough, that and the black I have is ABS, not the best for fine surface finish).

CJ
 
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