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Ultrasonic Cleaners.

Put a sheet of tinfoil in the water and turn it on, if the cleaner is a goodun it'll make holes appear.
In the tin foil :11: now that is witchcraft :hmm: I'll hunt mine out, fed up with having to remove all the orings with other cleaning methods.
 
Suspect mine more gives the things I put in it a warm bath and sings to them.
 
Suspect mine more gives the things I put in it a warm bath and sings to them.
First one I bought, in 2016 or something, brand new from lidl, done nothing, not even a bubble or heat or shit, got a refund. The second one, brand new from a charity shop, had bubbles and heat, but err- done nothing else. Stuff came out as rancid as it went in.
 
Well, knock me down with a feather!!

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Goodness, after reading through this I'm more confused than ever.

There seems to be two schools of thought now, one that they good enough to take paint off, the second that they're so useless they couldn't strip a bed.

As I've got a voucher that will cover most of the cost of it, I might as well just have a look around and see what I can find.

If it strips the finish, I'll just have to polish the tanks with a buffing mop and make them shine. Stainless goes with almost everything.

Thanks all.
 
I've found my ultrasonic cleaner WILL remove coatings from clones in the blink of an eye.

I have pitted the coatings of a few just by overloading it - if anything coated vibrates and rubs against something else then it will mess up the finish. Unfortunately even if you only put a few parts in the cleaner the vibrations mean they tend to move around inside it and they can still come into contact regardless of how careful they are separated when you load it.

I've got into the habit of cleaning coated top caps of RDAs separately, the base section tends to stay in one place so I'll chuck that in the ultrasonic - for coated RTAs I use a curved separator (top and bottom piece at each end of the cleaner, drop in separator curved side down and put the chimney in the middle. This works and stops the major parts bumping into each other, and I haven't messed up any coatings since I started doing it, but it's a pain in the arse.
 
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In the past when I used paint coated tanks (Smok for example), cleaning them in UC caused the paint to strip. Never had problems when it came to cleaning ie gunmetal colour Profile Unity, so I guess it all depends on what paint is being used and how it's applied.
 
Does the hz they are make make alot of difference to performance?
Ive seen them 42,000 46,000 and 48,000hz

Does higher hz work better?
 
Looks like I've finally found the answer to my question. Now I can stop worrying!

 
Right then, so I took the plunge and bought one but I have to say the results were a bit mixed. It didn't strip the Cerakote but the clear lacquer over it and the dark tinting on the glass were slightly affected. You can't really notice the lacquer so I left that but I striped the rest of the tinting with some acetone and just went with a clear glass.

The cleaning wasn't entirely perfect either.

The tanks are noticeably cleaner than with scrubbing alone but it hasn't got them completely spotless. I still needed to give them a bit of a going over with a toothbrush to loosen some of the grime which helped.

That said, the staining on the inner bell-cap and deck has been visibly reduced and the rubber and plastic parts are much cleaner too. The tanks do look better for it.

These aren't a total panacea but they're not a total disaster either. I've got no problems with putting my newer tanks in it now.
 
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