Whats the biggest mistake you made whilst you have vaped?

[Netvaper]

Buying an Arcana 22 that never worked properly.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Buying an Arcana 22 that never worked properly.

Thats a shame, what never worked properly? With the amount of things I have bought I have had my fair share of things that didn't work properly myself

 

[LordOdin]

It wasn't a mistake or maybe it was a mistake buying it, anyway i bought a Wotofo Mdura and the first few times i fired it the Wattage though set in the region of 35w (usually highest i go is 35w-50w) fired way higher. It instantly burnt the cotton. I think this happened the first 3 or 4 Times. It's been alright ever since and was a favourite Mod of mine till i stopped using Mods and using AIO's Mainly. Still no idea why it did it.

 

[Crispycritters]

Dual 18650 regulated. Was a pretty fire work display. Even asked geek cus services as to what could of happened or if it was a fault of my own. They was stumped also.

All I can put it down to. Battery over heat then thermal runaway. But can't explain why the chips safeties didn't kick in. Totally destroyed the mod. How ever. New glass and drip tip and the atty was fine and dandy.

And no worries. It's cool.

This can happen because of damaged wraps. Sometimes just removal and insertion of the batteries can nick the top/bottom edges exposing the negative contacts of the outer can, particularly if the mod has very form sprung contacts. If the two negative contacts of the cans come into contact in the mod then one of the two batteries will hard short because it will be in contact at positive to negative of the other battery and negative to negative at the two outer cans. The can of the other battery will act as a bridge between the positive and negative of the battery that goes boom. The safety circuitry can do absolutely nothing to stop bad things happening because the problem is caused inside the batteries themselves.

It is an unusual one as the batteries will generally be put into the mod in a different position, possibly in different order after each charge and the two exposed edges of battery cans have to come into contact, which means, BOTH batteries must be in exactly the position that two exposed edges touch so maybe people become complacent as they are vaping regulated and they assume the board will protect them, but it won't

Generally damage to the top/bottom of wraps damaged by stiff sprung contacts is easy to spot as the top of the wrap is torn or stretched and distorted, but tiny nicks on the edges can be easy to miss. If you put two batteries with this type of wrap damage into any mod, regulated or mech, then you are playing Russian Roulette.

I have an Asmodus Amighty mod with a very strong sprung negative contact. The first time I used it I put in a Samsung 30T 21700 which is not oversized. When I tried to remove the battery to recharge it I had a real struggle as it was tight AF. When i got it out the negative end of the wrap was obviously damaged - and there was a tiny nick at the positive exposing the edge of the can. I re-wrapoed the battery and used a G clamp to press the sprung contact is as far as it would go and left it for a month to try to weaken the spring. It worked, the spring was still relatively firm but I could get the battery out without damage and all seemed well so I forgot about it.

A couple of months later I bought some new Molicel P42s which are slightly oversized, tried one in the Amighty and... had a bastard of a time trying to get the battery out to charge even though it was a C Frame mod that gave good access to the battery. I got frustrated and really wrenched on the battery - the battery jammed half way out, the wraps tore at both ends - and the bottom positive contact of the mod was touching both the positive of the battery and the negative edge of the can. The battery instantly got hot AF and the wrap started bubbling but, fortunately, it must have melted a contact inside and the battery died without venting.

I prised the battery out with a screwdriver after it had cooled and binned it. There were pitted burn marks and scorching on the positive contact of the mod but the mod survived. I put a 30T in it after that as I knew I Could get it out without problems - but now I leave the same battery in the mod and charge internally as I'm not in a hurry to repeat the experience.

 

[animal.]

Can think of another silly mistake I've made in my journey. Bought a jalapeno flavoured juice. Can't remember if it was from gourmet eliquid or big juice. Vile. Instant throat burn. Or the crispy bacon juice again vile. Who wants to vape Frazzles lol.

 

[Crispycritters]

It wasn't a mistake or maybe it was a mistake buying it, anyway i bought a Wotofo Mdura and the first few times i fired it the Wattage though set in the region of 35w (usually highest i go is 35w-50w) fired way higher. It instantly burnt the cotton. I think this happened the first 3 or 4 Times. It's been alright ever since and was a favourite Mod of mine till i stopped using Mods and using AIO's Mainly. Still no idea why it did it.

It could be a loose/bad contact in the atomiser or at the 510 that caused a resistance problem. I've had the same thing happen when using a Wismec Guillotine RDA - first few hits hot, then it settled down. I tried it on a few different mods and got the same results regardless of which mod I used.

I tried fitting it to a mod, checking the resistance, removing and replacing then rechecking - very time I got a different resistance reading varying from 0.20 to 0.50... I changed the build several times and got the same result.

I removed the 510 cleaned and reassembled, checked the grub screws were clean and tight and tried again with no improvement. There was another screw on the bottom of the atty that held the negative side of the build deck in place - this was the source of the problem. After stripping, cleaning and re-assembling it seemed good and gave constant resistance readings of around 0.20 on several mods.

Unfortunately it only behaved itself for a few days until the problem came back - first few hits all over the place, then it would settle down. I'm assuming that there was a bad contact in the negative block that would rectify itself once the RDA heated up and expanded a bit. But I soon got pissed off with it aa I vaped it at 60 Watts - if the connection was loose when the RDA was could the mod could read it at 0.50 ohms instead of 0.20 my first hit could be at 150. Life's too short for that so I threw it.

It may not be the same problem with your mod, but it's worth checking the mod with a few different atties before assuming the mod is the cause of the problem

 

[Crispycritters]

As a newbie to rebuildables I bought a Goon 25mm, then bought a 24mm, a version 1.5, shortly after 2 Lost Art versions - one with the original airflow, one with rectangular 1.5 style airflow, but basically all the same and I was really happy with them.

Then I bought a Drop RDA and an Apocalypse RDA and quickly realised the Goons were a bit shit in comparison and the coil clamps are probably the worst and fiddliest way of fitting coils known to man and it seems that almost every other dual coil RDA i've bought since works better for me.

As a newbie I just watched a few Youtube vids, heard Goons were good and bought loads of essentially the same thing before trying anything else. I've bought loads of stuff that didn't turn out ton be as good as I hoped over the years, but buying 5 of the same thing before trying anything else has got to be my dumbest mistake yet.

 

[LordOdin]

It could be a loose/bad contact in the atomiser or at the 510 that caused a resistance problem. I've had the same thing happen when using a Wismec Guillotine RDA - first few hits hot, then it settled down. I tried it on a few different mods and got the same results regardless of which mod I used.

I tried fitting it to a mod, checking the resistance, removing and replacing then rechecking - very time I got a different resistance reading varying from 0.20 to 0.50... I changed the build several times and got the same result.

I removed the 510 cleaned and reassembled, checked the grub screws were clean and tight and tried again with no improvement. There was another screw on the bottom of the atty that held the negative side of the build deck in place - this was the source of the problem. After stripping, cleaning and re-assembling it seemed good and gave constant resistance readings of around 0.20 on several mods.

Unfortunately it only behaved itself for a few days until the problem came back - first few hits all over the place, then it would settle down. I'm assuming that there was a bad contact in the negative block that would rectify itself once the RDA heated up and expanded a bit. But I soon got pissed off with it aa I vaped it at 60 Watts - if the connection was loose when the RDA was could the mod could read it at 0.50 ohms instead of 0.20 my first hit could be at 150. Life's too short for that so I threw it.

It may not be the same problem with your mod, but it's worth checking the mod with a few different atties before assuming the mod is the cause of the problem

Used it loads since it happened with the same RTA it happened with and also other RTA's as well, it's never happened again since. I was going to sell the Mod to a friend but decided not to because of what happened. It's sat in it's box until who knows when, like a lot of gear i have bought. Mainly Boro MTL now. Shame as it's a decent Mod.

 

[MTB Vaper]

This can happen because of damaged wraps. Sometimes just removal and insertion of the batteries can nick the top/bottom edges exposing the negative contacts of the outer can, particularly if the mod has very form sprung contacts. If the two negative contacts of the cans come into contact in the mod then one of the two batteries will hard short because it will be in contact at positive to negative of the other battery and negative to negative at the two outer cans. The can of the other battery will act as a bridge between the positive and negative of the battery that goes boom. The safety circuitry can do absolutely nothing to stop bad things happening because the problem is caused inside the batteries themselves.

It is an unusual one as the batteries will generally be put into the mod in a different position, possibly in different order after each charge and the two exposed edges of battery cans have to come into contact, which means, BOTH batteries must be in exactly the position that two exposed edges touch so maybe people become complacent as they are vaping regulated and they assume the board will protect them, but it won't

Generally damage to the top/bottom of wraps damaged by stiff sprung contacts is easy to spot as the top of the wrap is torn or stretched and distorted, but tiny nicks on the edges can be easy to miss. If you put two batteries with this type of wrap damage into any mod, regulated or mech, then you are playing Russian Roulette.

I have an Asmodus Amighty mod with a very strong sprung negative contact. The first time I used it I put in a Samsung 30T 21700 which is not oversized. When I tried to remove the battery to recharge it I had a real struggle as it was tight AF. When i got it out the negative end of the wrap was obviously damaged - and there was a tiny nick at the positive exposing the edge of the can. I re-wrapoed the battery and used a G clamp to press the sprung contact is as far as it would go and left it for a month to try to weaken the spring. It worked, the spring was still relatively firm but I could get the battery out without damage and all seemed well so I forgot about it.

A couple of months later I bought some new Molicel P42s which are slightly oversized, tried one in the Amighty and... had a bastard of a time trying to get the battery out to charge even though it was a C Frame mod that gave good access to the battery. I got frustrated and really wrenched on the battery - the battery jammed half way out, the wraps tore at both ends - and the bottom positive contact of the mod was touching both the positive of the battery and the negative edge of the can. The battery instantly got hot AF and the wrap started bubbling but, fortunately, it must have melted a contact inside and the battery died without venting.

I prised the battery out with a screwdriver after it had cooled and binned it. There were pitted burn marks and scorching on the positive contact of the mod but the mod survived. I put a 30T in it after that as I knew I Could get it out without problems - but now I leave the same battery in the mod and charge internally as I'm not in a hurry to repeat the experience.

Good advice check them battery wraps every insertion, even on regulated mods. Its anecdotal but majority of people I've ever spoke to have a battery go thermal was in a regulated mod for what reason I dont know. Possibly alot more users use regulated so even a tiny percent it's more.Most mech users check those wraps every time they insert that battery becomes habit.
I try to keep the grey molicel wraps on long as possible as these fancy titties ones get ruined much faster. Shame as I loved boobie wraps