Asking a warm vape to a TC mod

[cyberlollo]

@cyberlollo you're overthinking this, it's TC, Watts are not important. You mod will supply what is needed to maintain the set temp, you just need to set high enough to hit the set temp.

If you're getting a weak, fluctuating vape it is most likely a wicking problem.

ok, let's think is this way..if you vape at 30w you get a good amount of warm vape, (let's forgot for a second of who vapes at 200w..)
but if you can't keep that wattage and you get 15w..
the temperature is 240° but you're getting at the beginning warm vape and now cold. while our coil is at the same temperature of 240°C / 480F (example).
not sure why, but this happen.

 

[Tubbyengineer]

Hi guys,
I'm vaping for a while in TC, using Titanium and SS on my RDTA or RTA and using rx200 or evic vtc mini.

Let's start with how I like to vape, warm vape around 25-30W
starting in TC I set my mod to 465F or 240°C
with a 0,39ohm (3mm, 6-7wraps) set at 30W coil my TC reach the protection almost immediately kicking down the watts to about 17w.
if i set 21W it jumps from 19 to 21W.
result? cold vape, not warm, no satisfaction, but it seems to be correct, since on steam-engine the range for a 0,39 coil is around 21W.

Single coil deck can't host more than 6-7 spaced wraps (a deck like the one of subtank mini, a kayfun single coil deck)
so the only way to increase the temperature of the steam is to choose a gauge, that with the same amount of wraps requires more wattage to be in its "perfect range".

so for vape around 30w I should take a 24g 7 wraps 3mm that vapes good at 28-30W.

now my question is, I saw a lot of people using Titanium coil with 26g, and without to build in dual-coil, it's impossible to keep the watts around 30W if you don't reduce the size of the wire, since I cannot make more wraps on the single coil deck, is this right? am I wrong?

I know that in TC you vape choosing the temp, but assuming a perfect wicking, the watts affect how warm is the vape or not? and if not, why when the wattage goes down to about 17 i experiment a cold vape?

should I try a 24gauge titanium for my purpose?

thanks in advance and sorry for my english

It's your wicking that's likely to be the problem, a cold weak vape with the temp protection kicking in means the coil isn't get enough juice - wick should only resist slightly as you pull it through the coil, any more than that will strangle the juice flow...

 

[cyberlollo]

It's your wicking that's likely to be the problem, a cold weak vape with the temp protection kicking in means the coil isn't get enough juice - wick should only resist slightly as you pull it through the coil, any more than that will strangle the juice flow...

Tubby take a look to the pictures I posted..
less cotton than there is impossible..I already have leaking problem because the cotton isn't enough to cover the channels.
I see reviews everyday where they put a way more cotton..

 

[Tubbyengineer]

ok, let's think is this way..if you vape at 30w you get a good amount of warm vape, (let's forgot for a second of who vapes at 200w..)
but if you can't keep that wattage and you get 15w..
the temperature is 240° but you're getting at the beginning warm vape and now cold. while our coil is at the same temperature of 240°C / 480F (example).
not sure why, but this happen.

Right I'll try and explain to you how the TC works...
Temperature is controlled by monitoring the resistance of the coil - the increase in resistance as the coil heats upis how the mod decides the temperature of the coil. To be able to limit the temperature accurately the mod needs to know the resistance of your coil at room temperature - this is checked when you fire the atty for the first time - the mod assumes the coil to be at room temperature - (That is the same temperature as the mod itself) and sets this as the "Base" resistance, from there the mod can monitor any changes in the resistance of the coil and compare them to the "Base" and calculate the correct temperature of the coil. At this point it's worth mentioning the "TCR" values you've seen mentioned - Put simply the "TCR" is the way a particular wires resistance changes as it heats up, NI200 changes resistance a lot SS316 changes very little. If you use the wrong TCR or Wire setting then your mod wont calculate the temperatures correctly and you'll get burning when you shouldn't or cool when you should have hot.

Now for the complicated bit about TC Wicking, Due to the way TC works if you don't have enough liquid at the coil then the coil can get hot and the mod will throttle back the power to keep the temperature down. On a non TC Build this dryness at the coil would result in a dry hit - or at least a hot, scratchy feeling to the vape. On a TC MOd all you notice is that the vape is cool with little or no vapour. To keep the coil cooled you must have lots of juice flow to the coil so you need to use much less wick - it should only just fill the coils diameter with very slight resistance as you pull it through.

The best way to determine if you have a wicking problem is to deliberately saturate the wick as much as possible then take a vape - if you get a decent vape or two then it starts to fade again then it's definetely a wicking problem, if you have the wick soaked and you still get little or no vapur then check your settings first and your build second...

 

[Tubbyengineer]

Tubby take a look to the pictures I posted..
less cotton than there is impossible..I already have leaking problem because the cotton isn't enough to cover the channels.
I see reviews everyday where they put a way more cotton..

I have taken a look at the pictures - What resistance is that build coming in at?

 

[cyberlollo]

Right I'll try and explain to you how the TC works...
Temperature is controlled by monitoring the resistance of the coil - the increase in resistance as the coil heats upis how the mod decides the temperature of the coil. To be able to limit the temperature accurately the mod needs to know the resistance of your coil at room temperature - this is checked when you fire the atty for the first time - the mod assumes the coil to be at room temperature - (That is the same temperature as the mod itself) and sets this as the "Base" resistance, from there the mod can monitor any changes in the resistance of the coil and compare them to the "Base" and calculate the correct temperature of the coil. At this point it's worth mentioning the "TCR" values you've seen mentioned - Put simply the "TCR" is the way a particular wires resistance changes as it heats up, NI200 changes resistance a lot SS316 changes very little. If you use the wrong TCR or Wire setting then your mod wont calculate the temperatures correctly and you'll get burning when you shouldn't or cool when you should have hot.

Now for the complicated bit about TC Wicking, Due to the way TC works if you don't have enough liquid at the coil then the coil can get hot and the mod will throttle back the power to keep the temperature down. On a non TC Build this dryness at the coil would result in a dry hit - or at least a hot, scratchy feeling to the vape. On a TC MOd all you notice is that the vape is cool with little or no vapour. To keep the coil cooled you must have lots of juice flow to the coil so you need to use much less wick - it should only just fill the coils diameter with very slight resistance as you pull it through.

The best way to determine if you have a wicking problem is to deliberately saturate the wick as much as possible then take a vape - if you get a decent vape or two then it starts to fade again then it's definetely a wicking problem, if you have the wick soaked and you still get little or no vapur then check your settings first and your build second...

thanks for your time Tubby, I seriously don't know how to use less cotton, I put a way less cotton than some your video on youtube, as you can see from the pictures I posted before, I use as cotton that you can see through it!
Also I get enough liquid to get 18-20W but even at 250°C the vape is cold or not really warm.

 

[cyberlollo]

I use a 0,4ohm on my rx200 (0,39 on evic) 3mm 7 wraps spaced 26 gauge TI grade1
set 26W in less than a sec goes in protection than when protection disappear the watt that it's pulsing are 15-18 and then temp protection again.. (temp set at 240°C-480F)
if i move to 260°C it starts to vape a bit warmer, probably I would use at 270-275°C

 

[Tubbyengineer]

OK, looking at Steam engine a 7 wrap 3mm Ti01 coil should come in at 0.326 ohms or around 0.33 on your mod. My first thought would be to re do the build starting with a 2.5mm diameter and keeping the wraps closer together. Make sure the cotton doesn't pull tight when you wick it and ensure you leave enough cotton at each end to just fit into the juice channels but be careful you dont pack it in too tight.

The way you're describing the power readings on the screen sounds as if the mod is working correctly - heres a screen shot of the Power use for a Heron V2 in use on my DNA200, the green line at the very bottom is the power output to the coil....

 

[cyberlollo]

thanks, tomorrow I'll do another coil this time 2,5mm but the coil you can see in the picture is 0,4 on my rx and 0,3 on evic..
and why would a 2,5mm coil be better?

 

[Tubbyengineer]

It's giving more space for airflow, and if you're still having problems when you post a picture of the build I'll be able to tell exactly how much cotton is in there since pretty much all my TC builds are 2.5mm...