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Mech Mods and Ohms

I have three SMPL clones, two good ones and one crap one. The crap one is crap because of the switch, poorly and too loosely screws into the tube and is crunchy, Apart from testing it I have not used it. The outer threads of this switch were enough to condemn it for me, though I suspect the internal tolerances in the manufacturing are crap too.

If you have a good one, then I am with @EmbraSewerRat , If you have a crap one I am with @crunchynut .
With no experience, I am not sure how easy it would be to tell good from bad.

There is no indication yet as to whether you have found out what the true amp rating on your battery is yet.
 
Right, thanks everyone for the help! Just one more question. When I unscrew the bottom for the 510, is it meant to touch the battery? Do I unscrew it about 5mm, I belive someone previously said this on here. Thanks once again
 
Right, thanks everyone for the help! Just one more question. When I unscrew the bottom for the 510, is it meant to touch the battery? Do I unscrew it about 5mm, I belive someone previously said this on here. Thanks once again
Stop. Just stop.

You are messing around with high powered batteries that are only supposed to be used in sealed battery packs with protective circuitry. One false move and you have a battery going into thermal runaway, that you have put into a metal tube and sealed at each end with other metal parts and effectively turned into a pipe bomb with enough power to blow your finger off or rip a chunk out of your face and blow some teeth out.

If you have to ask if the 510 should touch the battery (seriously?!), and whether you should unscrew it 5mm (which will cause the positive post in the Doge to become totally loose, i.e. NO!!!!!) then you should under no circumstances be considering using a mech with a hybrid cap.

Sorry if I sound negative, but NO!!!!! STOP!!!!!

Either stick to regulated mods, or at least get a mech with a 510 pin in it.

Actually, the Doge V3 is good for a mech as it has a nice long protruding but non-adjustable 510 pin that sticks out a lot more than 0.5mm (that's 0.5mm, not 5mm). Works great on a regulated mod too.
 
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It amazes me sometimes the total lack of disregard some people have when it comes to putting what essentially is a pipe bomb pointblank in their face.
 
I am still waiting to find out if the op has established what his battery is, and what the cdr of it is.
If he has not established that then any other questions are irrelevant.
 
I think it comes down to two things.

We live in an electronic age, where everyone is used to using electronic devices and don't appreciate the circuitry that has been developed over decades to protect them from electrocution or burns.

We live in an age of rapid development in battery technology. When I was a kid I thought nothing of testing those little square batteries by putting the contacts on my tongue. I was used to the idea that AA batteries might leak when left for months in a radio. Batteries were relatively weak.

But battery technology has moved on and there is an insane amount of potential energy in a high drain 18650 battery. When using a mech, you are introducing that battery to technology (a simple electrical contact) that pre-dates the electronic age. There are no chips, integrated circuits, transistors, valves, or fuses even. It's a modern high powered battery combined with 100 year old electrical technology (a manually activated contact completing a circuit and causing wire with resistance to heat up).

Some people just don't understand the implications of that.
 
I think it comes down to two things.

We live in an electronic age, where everyone is used to using electronic devices and don't appreciate the circuitry that has been developed over decades to protect them from electrocution or burns.

We live in an age of rapid development in battery technology. When I was a kid I thought nothing of testing those little square batteries by putting the contacts on my tongue. I was used to the idea that AA batteries might leak when left for months in a radio. Batteries were relatively weak.

But battery technology has moved on and there is an insane amount of potential energy in a high drain 18650 battery. When using a mech, you are introducing that battery to technology (a simple electrical contact) that pre-dates the electronic age. There are no chips, integrated circuits, transistors, valves, or fuses even. It's a modern high powered battery combined with 100 year old electrical technology (a manually activated contact completing a circuit and causing wire with resistance to heat up).

Some people just don't understand the implications of that.

One of the reasons I love my GUS G16 is that it has a replaceable 7A fuse as part of the switch assembly :) It's like a little bit of safety built into a mech. Genuinely surprised that more mech mods don't do this tbh. I can only assume that the size of the fuse required for 0.01 builds and high drain 18650's would be too big to be practical.
 
Right, thanks everyone for the help! Just one more question. When I unscrew the bottom for the 510, is it meant to touch the battery? Do I unscrew it about 5mm, I belive someone previously said this on here. Thanks once again

Honestly mate, I hate the idea of using a mech, and even I know the answer to this question. As said above, you really shouldn't be using it if you don't know how to do so safely.

one wrong move, and it could change the rest of your life in a negative way. Stick to a regulated mod.
 
Some people just don't understand the implications of that.

Bo0o0om headshot?!?!?

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