Aha, Heres that post -
http://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/f...-and-devices/70698-ni200-coil.html#post778349 I'll paste the main text here, but you can follow the link for the whole thread if that floats your boat...
Right here's what I've found, Use something in the region of 0.3mm wire, preferably the tempered stuff from Rob @
stealthvape, Wind the coil tightly then fire it with the temp control mode off until it just starts to show red.
Now using the same tool you wound the coil on pull the coil away from the posts - up or out depending on where the holes are, nickel seems to stretch a bit when it's been heated, once its tight-ish on the tool you can then take up the slack on the leads and position the coil properly.
Fire it again and watch for "hot" wraps, if you get one or two wraps that heat up more than others you will need to "Strum" the coil, just run a pointy tool or flat screwdriver gently across the coil using just enough pressure to move the wraps very slightly sideways - this will move the coils apart just enough to stop hot wraps.
Now the coil is working properly you can wick it, be careful not to put too much cotton in as this will "choke" the wick and liquid flow will be reduced - resulting in a cold weak vape as the coil hits it's temperature too quicky and gets throttled back, lots of liquid in the wick will keep heat moving away from the coil and into the juice- this will give you a nice warm moist vape.
Setting the best temperature for your juice is a matter of trial and error but if you run too hot you will get black gunk on your wick and coil, this means you need to turn the temperature down start around 370f or 380f and go up or down from there (SX Mini M class need to be 60 or 70 degrees lower as they use a combination of Voltage level and PWM to control the temperature while DNA40's use just voltage level.
Don't forget that the wattage only affects how much vapour you get not coil temperature so you may want to use a higher wattage setting than normal, try around 15 or 20 to start with.
If you find a line of gunk on part of your coil when you go to rewick that is a sure sign you have a hot wrap - all the temperature control devices take an average of the coil resistance to work out the temperature so if you have one wrap that is shorting to another that will be the lowest resistance area in the coil and will get hotter than the rest of the coil -
