wraith
Achiever
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2014
- Messages
- 3,422
I got an Tobeco Orchid v4 clone as my first RTA a couple of days ago and have been loving it.
Using it on the Smok Fury-S with Efest purple 18650 30A* I originally got to go with my Atlantis.
Watched a lot of coil-building videos and my first few builds have been good and getting better..
1. Dual plain microcoil .4mm kanthal, 8 wraps around 3mm @ 0.62ohm (target was 0.6)
2. Dual twisted microcoil .3mm kanthal, 9 wraps around 3mm @ 5.2ohm (target was 0.5)
3. Dual plain microcoil .4mm kanthal 9 wraps around 2mm @ 4.8ohm (target was 0.5)
Tried .3/.4mm staged heating coils but they didn't fire right, think I need thinner kanthal (or event thinner nichrome) for the leaders.
All done with pretty loose cotton wicks fluffed up with a tiny bit into the top 1mm of the juice channel.
I'm using Ruthless "Ez Duz It" and "Swamp Thang" (85%vg), Penguin "Adelie" (70%vg) and Digby's "DMG80" (80%) vg, all very tasty and very cloudy.
It's now performing better than my Atlantis (which was the original goal).
Buuut.. noob questions..
1. Does anyone have any tips, hints or favoured builds for getting the most flavour/clouds/both from this? I don't want to go much below .5 ohm until I'm 110% sure I know what I'm doing, I've been using steam-engine.org but am still 0.02ohm out on my builds. Would be happy building quite complex and fiddly coils and have all the tools.
2. After a few full lung hits (say 14 seconds firing) in quick succession the base of the tank (the metal sleeve between the polycarbonate tank and deck) gets quite warm. The mod is cool and so is the poly tank and top sleeve. I've read that this is perfectly normal for Kayfuns but just wanted some reassurance that I'm not going to melt something. Depending on battery state I'm doing between 20w and 37w.
2..and-a-bit. I assume that because my favourite stainless wide-bore drip-tip gets a little warm is why my Orchid clone was supplied with a Delrin insulated one?
* I know, really only rated for 20A continuous drain.
Using it on the Smok Fury-S with Efest purple 18650 30A* I originally got to go with my Atlantis.
Watched a lot of coil-building videos and my first few builds have been good and getting better..
1. Dual plain microcoil .4mm kanthal, 8 wraps around 3mm @ 0.62ohm (target was 0.6)
2. Dual twisted microcoil .3mm kanthal, 9 wraps around 3mm @ 5.2ohm (target was 0.5)
3. Dual plain microcoil .4mm kanthal 9 wraps around 2mm @ 4.8ohm (target was 0.5)
Tried .3/.4mm staged heating coils but they didn't fire right, think I need thinner kanthal (or event thinner nichrome) for the leaders.
All done with pretty loose cotton wicks fluffed up with a tiny bit into the top 1mm of the juice channel.
I'm using Ruthless "Ez Duz It" and "Swamp Thang" (85%vg), Penguin "Adelie" (70%vg) and Digby's "DMG80" (80%) vg, all very tasty and very cloudy.
It's now performing better than my Atlantis (which was the original goal).
Buuut.. noob questions..
1. Does anyone have any tips, hints or favoured builds for getting the most flavour/clouds/both from this? I don't want to go much below .5 ohm until I'm 110% sure I know what I'm doing, I've been using steam-engine.org but am still 0.02ohm out on my builds. Would be happy building quite complex and fiddly coils and have all the tools.
2. After a few full lung hits (say 14 seconds firing) in quick succession the base of the tank (the metal sleeve between the polycarbonate tank and deck) gets quite warm. The mod is cool and so is the poly tank and top sleeve. I've read that this is perfectly normal for Kayfuns but just wanted some reassurance that I'm not going to melt something. Depending on battery state I'm doing between 20w and 37w.
2..and-a-bit. I assume that because my favourite stainless wide-bore drip-tip gets a little warm is why my Orchid clone was supplied with a Delrin insulated one?
* I know, really only rated for 20A continuous drain.
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