Taifun gtx extra resistance??

[Mbsun]

I acquired a taifun gtx its a lovely favour but..

For some reason I cannot figure, any build I put in is double the resistance it should be (give or take)
This is on a dna steamcrave hadron which I use for building

It is not a missread, it vapes that way too (on a mech)

For example if I put in a build of 3 core ss 28g x 3 +38g 5 wraps should give me about 0.2 - .21 I am getting 0.4 plus (and if I stick this in any other rda/rdta (I have lots), I do get that on the hadron
Likewise 24gx3 +40g should give me 0.09- 0.1 but it doesn't (shouldn't really have that on this size atti obviously), but it doesn't, it gives me 0.2- 0.25 (which is about what I like on a 22 or 23 mm)
Also the readings are not as consistent as they should be, (not wildly inconsistent but not nailed as usual)

Problem is the atti, but not sure what to look for when I strip it down?

 

[Crispycritters]

As taking out the 510 pin releases the entire build deck from the bottom tank section it means the negative part of the circuit is in two halves - with most atomisers the negative block is milled into the deck and is one solid piece of metal - all the 510 pin has to do is securely hold the positive block in place. With this particular tank the 510 also has to firmly hold the two halves of the negative side together as well as the 510 in place. Unfortunately the top of the tank has to have an o'ring which is lubricated to stop seizing the two halves together which, if overlubricated can causes extra resistance as the excess VG can hinder a clean connection.

I would try to wipe away the juice from the mating surfaces and make sure the 510 is very firmly tightened and check the resistance again - if it is lower, and closer to what you would expect with that coil then the problem is in the negative side of the circuit and the slightest flaw in machining can cause this type of issue in any atomiser as the mating surfaces of the different parts.

It's a bit of a bastard - to check it quicky I'd temporarily remove the o-ring completely, clean the mating surfaces completely and re-assemble. If the problem is instantly resolved then that is the cause of the problem. Maybe try re-assembly afterwards with a thinner o'ring in place so it will seal but still give a decent contact between the two halves.

 

[Mbsun]

Cracking crispycritters

Just what I was hoping for tbh.

I had assumed it was something to do with the way the 510 holds the lot in place, but needed a few more specific thoughts

So big thanks

 

[ripe_plantain]

With this particular tank the 510 also has to firmly hold the two halves of the negative side together as well as the 510 in place.

No, and @Mbsun should have realized that. The 510 positive travels up the center of that chimney (for lack of a better word) and only connects to the positive block. The outside of that chimney is threaded and completes the negative/ground. The two halves can be joined with no positive at all.

 

[Crispycritters]

No, and @Mbsun should have realized that. The 510 positive travels up the center of that chimney (for lack of a better word) and only connects to the positive block. The outside of that chimney is threaded and completes the negative/ground. The two halves can be joined with no positive at all.

I think were discussing a different section of the tank. The threaded 'chimney' screws the base of the tank to the top - but the entire build deck, including the negative post, can be separated from the tank and airflow inserts once the 510 pin is removed. I think this is the likely cause of the bad connection as the 510 pin also has to firmly hold the two halves together - and as the wicking is right next to this can get juicy making any potential connectivity problems worse.

I'm discussing the Taifun GX RDTA - I hope I haven't confused it with something else, as I've just noticed the thread title is GTX lol..

 

[ripe_plantain]

I'm discussing the Taifun GX RDTA - I hope I haven't confused it with something else, as I've just noticed the thread title is GTX lol..

Yes the GX. I've been using my 3 GX's for a couple years.

 

[Mbsun]

Sorry, gx yes (I am a bugger for mixing things up like that)

Just to mention it's the dlc, which is the one with 2 tanks in 1 (the 2ml tpd is on top of the 4 (or whatever)

Anyhow, this is smashing my head to bits!!

If I over tighten the 510 I basically create the circuit under the posts and Heat the atti (so can't do that obviously)

Anyhow I had this in pieces so many times now, loosen tighten loosen tighten trying to figure out what the f is going on, I basically smashed or mashed all the insulators up.

So £10 later I have a new pack of spares Inc all insulators, and I had a go again last night

Did it work, nope lol still overreading though a 0.2- 0.22 is coming in at 0.32 instead of .42, and again if overtighten the 510 I can still basically bypass the posts

Though now I have all 3 510 pins, rather than just the longest so can do a couple of rebuilds in 2ml and 4.5 or whatever as well as the 6.5 ml to see if this helps

One thing to ask- in the pack of spares there a couple of tiny little black rubber (I think) "grommets" maybe 1 ml or so across, not a clue where they are for?

 

[ripe_plantain]

One thing to ask- in the pack of spares there a couple of tiny little black rubber (I think) "grommets" maybe 1 ml or so across, not a clue where they are for?

Those are either for the two wicking rods or for around where you insert juice.