The 3d printing thread

[rick]

My first 3D printed 40w, single 18650 mod. Not perfect but well happy for my first shot at it. Think I need a bit more practice before I attempt the DNA200 I am wanting to do.

 

[hellgh0st]

Hey #peps1 did you get an answer from the guy about the battery contacts for that 3d dual 18650 mod for the sx350j? I still haven't put my chip in a mod yet it's still in the box lol

 

[peps1]

Hey #peps1 did you get an answer from the guy about the battery contacts for that 3d dual 18650 mod for the sx350j? I still haven't put my chip in a mod yet it's still in the box lol

Hello mate,

He is using cut copper and springs for the tabs.....not an approach I'm that fond off.....springs and solder don't really go that well together.

Going to rework it to take Keystone Tab so soon as I have a chance, and get over this case of man flu.

 

[hellgh0st]

Hello mate,

He is using cut copper and springs for the tabs.....not an approach I'm that fond off.....springs and solder don't really go that well together.

Going to rework it to take Keystone Tab so soon as I have a chance, and get over this case of man flu.

Yeah I'm very much inclined to agree with you on that, let me know how the modified version goes, I was thinking that it would look good with the battery cover from the single 18650 version with the sx350j lettering, what do you rekon? Really liking that mod (wink wink nudge nudge) get better soon Pal man flu is the worst ,its doing the rounds here in stafford at the moment.

 

[julesvapes]

Hi, just looking for a bit of advice on here, i have been toying with getting a 3d printer for a while now and apart from the numerous ideas i have for justifying the purchase,making a 3x18650 dna200 is the final push i need.

So PET or ABS is going to be the way to go.

Now I have been doing some research on printers for a while now and quite fancy making a kit, then if it goes wrong I should have a better idea of how to fix it.

this is looking favorite at the moment https://www.think3dprint3d.com/Kossel-Mini-3dPrinter-Kit but they also have stocks of the earlier model at £360.

I am going for a delta printer simply because I hate ''boxes'' and i like the way they look.
they seem to have a large community and good reviews.

But the only thing I am concerned about is that am sure I read somewhere for ABS to print well you need a heated enclosure.

would the heat from the hotend be enough if I fabricated 3 walls from acrylic so the area is kept at a constant temperature ?


Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[peps1]

Hi, just looking for a bit of advice on here, i have been toying with getting a 3d printer for a while now and apart from the numerous ideas i have for justifying the purchase,making a 3x18650 dna200 is the final push i need.

So PET or ABS is going to be the way to go.

PET is the way to go, significantly easier to print the ABS.

I am going for a delta printer simply because I hate ''boxes'' and i like the way they look.
they seem to have a large community and good reviews.

I really wouldn't go with a Delta printer, and especially for a first printer......and here is why:

larger learning curve
Non uniform resolution map (movement per motor steps is not the same in the middle of the build plate as it is near the towers).
Most have the disadvantage of a Bowden extruder.
Trouble shooting is much harder as any movement involves all 3 stepper motors.
Leveling the bed is harder (for the above reasons).

For me these far outweigh the advantages of being able to print a little faster.

But the only thing I am concerned about is that am sure I read somewhere for ABS to print well you need a heated enclosure.

You do ideal as ABS will contract as its cools resulting in lifting the print off the bed and the print delamination higher up the model.

I heated enclosure keeps the whole print warm enabling it to shrink uniformly when the print is done.

If you don't have an enclosure, you can deal with the lifting issue by using different metiarals on your heated bed to help the print stick (ABS juice, PEI sheet, some hair-sprays).

But this will not help with the delamination risk if you are printing models more then a couple of inches hight.

The best fix is to not use ABS, but switch to PETG/PET+ that have all the strength and heat resistant quality, but are MUCH easier to print the the soon to be outdated ABS

would the heat from the hotend be enough if I fabricated 3 walls from acrylic so the area is kept at a constant temperature ?

No, but the heat from your heated bed would help if you also built acrylic walls (again, only needed of ABS)

 

[mrmoo]

Some really useful advice there, thank you
On that kinda note, opinions on a reprap ormerod 2 ?
Cheers,
moo

 

[peps1]

Some really useful advice there, thank you
On that kinda note, opinions on a reprap ormerod 2 ?
Cheers,
moo

Not a huge fan of the Ormerod 2, the single unsupported arm that makes the X axis is a troublesome design in that getting it square and keeping it square is somewhat of a problem, its also very expensive for what you get.

You could get a more sturdy printrbot simple for less, or even a full Steel or alumium frame Prusa i3 for £100 less that will give you much better prints and a larger build area.

I would be incline to recommend a Prusa i3 as a first printer (avoid the wood or perspex ones) or one of the CTC 3D Printer that with some quite major upgrading are comparable to the far more expensive Flashforge/Replicator.

 

[julesvapes]

I really wouldn't go with a Delta printer, and especially for a first printer......and here is why:

larger learning curve
Non uniform resolution map (movement per motor steps is not the same in the middle of the build plate as it is near the towers).
Most have the disadvantage of a Bowden extruder.
Trouble shooting is much harder as any movement involves all 3 stepper motors.
Leveling the bed is harder (for the above reasons).

For me these far outweigh the advantages of being able to print a little faster

Thanks for your reply.
I understand what you are saying but the reason i want the delta is more the look of the device than the speed of printing, and I also read that the deltas are better for producing curved objects
The larger learning curve I am happy with,and the harder troubleshooting, I like a challenge.
the model I am looking at has automatic bed levelling.

So that leaves the other two issues.

bowden extruder, you say this is a disadvantage but i thought the less weight at the print head effectively cuts down on ghosting and ripples.
resolution map. does this mean it is less accurate at the edges of the print bed or does the software allow for this.

Sorry to be a pain asking these questions

 

[peps1]

Thanks for your reply.
I understand what you are saying but the reason i want the delta is more the look of the device than the speed of printing

It may start looking less attractive after weeks of trouble shooting and frustration

and I also read that the deltas are better for producing curved objects
The larger learning curve I am happy with,and the harder troubleshooting, I like a challenge.
the model I am looking at has automatic bed levelling.

The early Deltas were better then some of the early sloppy cartesian 3D printer at curves and reduced shadowing but now we are at a point that cartesian printer sparse Deltas in all but speed (that's why you see significantly more cartesian style printers being made and sold, despite Deltas being cheaper to make).

Don't get me wrong there are some excellent and when you really know what you are doing you can build a very good printer for a low cost......just hard to recorded them as a first printer, rather then a second printer custom built for speed.

Also I have issues with automatic bed levelling.......I kind of think its better for people to learn to do it themselves rather then spend the same amount of time trying to get auto bed levelling to actually work.

So that leaves the other two issues.
bowden extruder, you say this is a disadvantage but i thought the less weight at the print head effectively cuts down on ghosting and ripples.
resolution map. does this mean it is less accurate at the edges of the print bed or does the software allow for this.

Less weight on the X axis is a good thing for speed, but ghosting/ripple is a non issues if you get the slop out of the build by having the right tension on your belts and good bearings.

Where as Bowden extruder's have the disadvantage of introducing more play in the filament resulting in fluctuating values needed for optimal retraction and extrusion setting (something that can not be done on the fly, so you will never be able to have the optimal settings)

Then you have the fact that it reduces the types of filament you can actually print with over a direct system.

So the only real advantage of a Bowden is speed.

I would rather have a slower, ugly printer that lets me print higher quality with less messing around.

Yes resolution map means the printer is less accurate the more you move away from the centre, but there is no way to compensate for this with software as each step a stepper-motor makes is a fixed mechanical value that can be changed with software.

Sorry to be a pain asking these questions

No problem, that's what the tread is for