The 3d printing thread

[peps1]

Yeah, I've done a fair whack of research.. was looking at Kapton and Pritt stick to start off with. Main upgrade I'm looking at first is really the Y axis drive bar as it doesn't have enough support so can warp. Just a few prints and a few cheap bearings and it's sorted. I'll prob just get some Perspex for the sides and front once I've got stuff up and running.

Id skip the kapton, and just go Pritt stick onto a glass sheet to start, will save you a fortune on kapton, as the stuff gets ripped up so easly, and is a pain to remove and reapply, where as a glass sheet with dried on Pritt stick will give you a bunch of prints before you whip it out and just run it under a hot tap to clean off the Pritt stick.

The glass and Pritt stick option is also really handy for printing batches of stuff, as when one is done printing you can just whip in a new glass sheet primed with Pritt stick while you wait for the fist print to cool down and pop off the glass bed.

Yeah the Perspex is a good diy project, and the Y axis mod is a good idea as all the 1st gen. Makerbot Replicator clone like this have a few floors that are easily fixed with printable parts......spent my first week just printing upgrades, one of the aspects of 3D printing that is so cool, someone make a mod, uploads the files and everyone can print them off!

You should mabe think about a cheap Feeler Gauge set, to help with bed levelling.
32 BLADE FEELER GAUGE SET INCLUDES BRASS BLADE★QUALITY★METRIC & IMPERIAL MEASURE | eBay

The "sheet of paper" levelling technique is not that great, and your number one issue will always be getting the bed level.....its a fucking nightmare till you have done it so many times you know just how much tension you are looking for on the paper.

Good luck!

 

[ax]

Id skip the kapton, and just go Pritt stick onto a glass sheet to start, will save you a fortune on kapton, as the stuff gets ripped up so easly, and is a pain to remove and reapply, where as a glass sheet with dried on Pritt stick will give you a bunch of prints before you whip it out and just run it under a hot tap to clean off the Pritt stick.

The glass and Pritt stick option is also really handy for printing batches of stuff, as when one is done printing you can just whip in a new glass sheet primed with Pritt stick while you wait for the fist print to cool down and pop off the glass bed.

Yeah the Perspex is a good diy project, and the Y axis mod is a good idea as all the 1st gen. Makerbot Replicator clone like this have a few floors that are easily fixed with printable parts......spent my first week just printing upgrades, one of the aspects of 3D printing that is so cool, someone make a mod, uploads the files and everyone can print them off!

You should mabe think about a cheap Feeler Gauge set, to help with bed levelling.
32 BLADE FEELER GAUGE SET INCLUDES BRASS BLADE★QUALITY★METRIC & IMPERIAL MEASURE | eBay

The "sheet of paper" levelling technique is not that great, and your number one issue will always be getting the bed level.....its a fucking nightmare till you have done it so many times you know just how much tension you are looking for on the paper.

Good luck!

Think I've finally got the bastard sorted, one more upgrade and it's fully ready, just need to test the ABS again as soon as my Acetone arrives. I've already burnt out one hot end which started with me adding the wrong Firmware to it and melting part of the PTFE tubing inside, it just went downhill from there, so it's currently running as a single extruder model. On the plus side, it's now printing on glass.

For those interested, I've got a camera on it to monitor what it's doing. I'm lazy (it's on the other side of the room) and I like to know if it's screwing up or not. You can see what it's doing at AxMod - 3D Printer

 

[peps1]

I've already burnt out one hot end which started with me adding the wrong Firmware to it and melting part of the PTFE tubing inside, it just went downhill from there, so it's currently running as a single extruder model. On the plus side, it's now printing on glass.

Yes, the PTFE tubing can be a bit of a paint even without the wrong Firmware

I'm switching out to a all metal hotend, as printing anything over ~235c is going to deteriorate the PTFE, and I want to print some higher melting point plastics.

You printing a bunch of PLA calibration cube onto glass at the moment?

 

[ax]

Yes, the PTFE tubing can be a bit of a paint even without the wrong Firmware

I'm switching out to a all metal hotend, as printing anything over ~235c is going to deteriorate the PTFE, and I want to print some higher melting point plastics.

You printing a bunch of PLA calibration cube onto glass at the moment?

Na, it's a set of 100mm tall feet for it. 8 hour Job. Fed up of sitting hunched in the corner working on it. Did consider getting a couple of metal ends, but all I'm really wanting to print is PLA and ABS for the mo. Plus I have a load of PTFE tubing coming too. Looking for some overhead spool holders for it too. Have my bearings coming for the X Axis so they'll be printed tomorrow ready for the bearings.

 

[ax]

Ok, so, here's the results of the 18650 sleds in ABS:



Strong as hell, won't break..

 

[peps1]

Ok, so, here's the results of the 18650 sleds in ABS

Strong as hell, won't break..

Nice, can't see any warping or issues, what bed materiel did you use?

 

[ax]

Nice, can't see any warping or issues, what bed materiel did you use?

Did say - ABS. Printed with ABS Juice on Mirror glass.

 

[hellgh0st]

Thats nice pal how much that set up cost you then? I am looking for a 3d printed box mod for my sx350j chip but i want it the size of the smok XPro m65, as i cant find any boxmods like it or that size

 

[ax]

Thats nice pal how much that set up cost you then? I am looking for a 3d printed box mod for my sx350j chip but i want it the size of the smok XPro m65, as i cant find any boxmods like it or that size

Basic set up was £311, however, I've spent another £50-70 on additional bits I need. I mean, if you can find box on Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects, then I'll print it for you.

 

[hellgh0st]

Basic set up was £311, however, I've spent another £50-70 on additional bits I need. I mean, if you can find box on Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects, then I'll print it for you.

Would you be able to print anything like this Box Mod YiHi SX350J bottom feeder (right squonkers) by mc0676 - Thingiverse and same quality?