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What to do with valkarie?

Reading back to your first post, the coils that were in the RDA were 0.18 resistance and 10 wrap.

10 wrap coils sound like they were made for series - but only 0.18 resistance sounds really, really low to me. Although doubled up 30 Amp batteries are rated to cope with the load, after battery sag/voltage drop you'll still be getting a vape over 300 Watts in a para-series.

Personally I would shit myself if I tried to vape that build on a para-series mech.
 
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Sorry if this seems insulting.

When you double the voltage going from a 4.2 Volt Mech to a 8.4 Volt series or para-series mech you must QUADRUPLE the resistance of the coil to get the same powered Vape.

i.e

4.2V with a 0.12 Ohm build - 4.2 divided by 0.12 = 35 Amps
8.4V with a 0.24 Ohm build - 8.4 divided by 0.24 = 35 Amps

Both are within the limits of good 35 Amp batteries, however when you work out the wattage this happens -

35 Amps x 4.2V = 147W
35 Amps x 8.4V = 294W

I know this totally ignores the battery sag/voltage drop through the mod and you won't get the full voltage to the 510 from any mech, but please don't assume just doubling the voltage means just doubling the resistance if you are accustomed to 4.2 Volt mechs as a scorched throat isn't fun..

Like I said, sorry if this is insulting - but it may be of use to someone
Not insulted at all, in actuality seeing that is really handy to me as it suits the way my mind does maths and drops pennies Into place.

I was doing 4.2x 4.2 ÷0.12= 147W
Edit- consequently I would work out- 8.4x84 ÷.24 =294watts

Fwiw I like to vape around 150watts perhaps 170 (by these calculations) but a .3 coil on 8.4 watts looks like it will be a bit of a kick in the head (235w)
 
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Reading back to your first post, the coils that were in the RDA were 0.18 resistance and 10 wrap.

10 wrap coils sound like they were made for series - but only 0.18 resistance sounds really, really low to me. Although doubled up 30 Amp batteries are rated to cope with the load, after battery sag/voltage drop you'll still be getting a vape over 300 Watts in a para-series.

Personally I would shit myself if I tried to vape that build on a para-series mech.
Yes it doesn't really make sense. I may have another look at that.
 
Really.....FFS. Just use a regulated mod and enjoy the vape.
Far too simple:)

Besides I am sick of replacing them when they fail, had 2 geekvapes last a matter of days past the 12 months warranty, and a smok that stopped showing its display after 18 months, even though it spent 12 of it as a spare! Had great fun trying to unlock and lock that bloody thing! Only my dovpo is still alive
 
Really.....FFS. Just use a regulated mod and enjoy the vape.

Maybe. But there is absolutely no reason why you shouldn't be able to enjoy regulated and mech vaping if you have a good idea of what you are doing.

But it is always useful to understand something that is happening with your mod and batteries regardless of if you chose to use mechs or not. Occasionally you will come across a newbie who buys a pair of 10 Amp 18650s to use because they are 3,500 mah, runs it at 80 Watts because the screen on his mod shows it can do 220 Watts so believes 80 can't be pushing it too hard and doesn't understand why their mod keeps shutting down with a low power warning when the batteries are still at 80%, or manages to vent batteries inside it because they are unwittingly ragging the Amp limits.

It isn't essential to have a working knowledge of Ohms Law and mundane stuff like voltage drop and battery sag with a regulated mod, but you still need to know a bit about basic battery safety and current limits - even though the board's safeties give a lot of protections, they can do nothing to protect you from the batteries you put in it
 
Got it today for £80 on the vaperz cloud site, also bought 4 molicel p45 and some coils
Plus more supplies for the rest of my kit

Today has been an expensive day vaping!
 
@Crispycritters

As it was you that posted the words of warning re the correct orientation of the batteries on a para series

I am a little befuddled on the bottom door of the hog xl, in that it can rotate to every positional 90 degree, which makes a difference to the bottom connection

The placement of the batteries is obvious, just can't be careless doing it.

Don't get me wrong, I could have a think about whether it does or doesn't make a difference, and watch a you tube video, just at this moment I am busy and can't get my head into gear

Have to say I knew the size and weight of this thing before I bought, but getting it in my hand is very familiar (as a bricklayer lol)
Good job the plan is to sit at home with it dripping away
 
You can put the door in any position you want at the bottom contactor is basically an 'X' shape.

If you had independant pairs of batteries in series and made the parallel connection at pos to pos and neg to neg at '8.4 Volts' they would self balance at 8.4 Volts (any time you put more than one battery in a parallel connection the higher charged cell will top up the other cell - but this doesn't happen in series connection).

As this plate creates an extra parallel connection the batteries will be able to self level at 4.2 Volts and 8.4 Volt.

It had me scratching my head at first, but when I drew one pair of parallel connected batteries with an identical pair underneath them it made sense. It is still a para-series connection, but now the top pair can self level, and so can the bottom. There can still be a voltage difference between the 'top' and 'bottom' pair but generally this tends to be only 0.01 to 0.02 Volts.
 
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