Firing button heating beyond belief

[ambivalent]

Have you removed the center post from the atty and checked the insulators inside it?

 

[Fubar1977]

The cleaning spree did absolutely nothing and the button is as hot as ever.

And i got the resistance from an ohm reader at a shop i borrowed. I dont personally own one but any time I kniwbits super low or if i have a build i havent used before i check it within a couple days of installation.

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I`m sorry if this sounds harsh but you need to be checking any build before you fire it not just assuming it will be correct from the number of wraps or gauge of wire you are using.
If you do not own a resistance meter you are not properly equipped to me building this type (or any type) of coil to use on an unprotected device.
A hot switch is a dead give-away that something is seriously amiss and without a meter you are unable to check the first and most likely cause of a short.

As stated above, the resistance you claim to be using is also drawing more than the safe continuous rating for the battery you are using, also not advisable.

For safety`s sake, please get a meter and check your builds before firing them.

 

[Colonelboom]

One good tip I use if I get any of these types of issue is to pour a buttload of salt into some vinegar, mix it all up and microwave it until it's really hot. Make sure the salt is dissolved properly and get a cotton bud dipped in the solution to wipe down all of the threading and connections. I let the q-tip sit over the parts I am cleaning for a while and in a lot of cases just dip the mod in the boiling solution.

That, for me at least, was the only way to remove a hot button on my brass nemesis which 'looked' clean but heated the button slowly through use.

 

[bbf90b]

I`m sorry if this sounds harsh but you need to be checking any build before you fire it not just assuming it will be correct from the number of wraps or gauge of wire you are using.
If you do not own a resistance meter you are not properly equipped to me building this type (or any type) of coil to use on an unprotected device.
A hot switch is a dead give-away that something is seriously amiss and without a meter you are unable to check the first and most likely cause of a short.

As stated above, the resistance you claim to be using is also drawing more than the safe continuous rating for the battery you are using, also not advisable.

For safety`s sake, please get a meter and check your builds before firing them.

No, i understand that and I very rarely build my coils myself unless they are incredibly simple. I have my friend who has considerable experience build them for me.
But dispute the safety issues, do you have any fixes for the button??

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[bbf90b]

Have you removed the center post from the atty and checked the insulators inside it?

No, how does one remove the centerpost from a plume veil?? The same as any other Atty??

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[bbf90b]

Go for 12, you're looking for a low current build that wouldnt normally heat the button so over 1 ohm is guaranteed to be fine, dont worry about neat or even using it, you just want a 1+ohm load that you can fire (without the top cap). Hot button on a build like that would mean somethings wrong with the Mod / atty connection - And you really should buy a meter, you simply cant tell by looking or how many wraps, it's just not safe

Ok, so at 12 wraps 28awg kanthal the button does not get HOT per say, but after holding it for a bit there does get a light warmth. Thoughts??

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[Tubbyengineer]

Ok, so at 12 wraps 28awg kanthal the button does not get HOT per say, but after holding it for a bit there does get a light warmth. Thoughts??

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OK It sounds like there is a problem somewhere at that level you should be able to fire for ages without the button getting warm, have you stripped everything down and cleaned it - including dismantling the switch?

 

[Tubbyengineer]

Ok, so at 12 wraps 28awg kanthal the button does not get HOT per say, but after holding it for a bit there does get a light warmth. Thoughts??

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Next thing to do would be to examine the 510 connector on top cap and atty, check the centre pin alignment and that the centre screw of the atty is clearing the threads of the attys 510, and that its not touching anywhere - running very hot ultra low builds can melt the insulators for the centre post and pin...

 

[bbf90b]

Tubbyengineer yes, I have taken apart everything that comes apart and cleaned it to no avail
And to the second part, I can check.

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[Tubbyengineer]

@Tubbyengineer yes, I have taken apart everything that comes apart and cleaned it to no avail
And to the second part, I can check.

Sent from my Prism II using Planet of the Vapes mobile app

If it's none of those the I'd have to physically examine it to tell you whats wrong, but my instinct tells me that it's high resistance in the switch thats the problem. if the spring has tarnish on it where it touches the switch button and housing that would raise resistance as would any tarnish or oxidation on the button or housing, otherwise I'm out of ideas without seeing the mod...