No ohm reader - guess my ohms ???

[VAPE-DADDY]

Reason it's not the best cloud device:
26650 cells all sag like a bitch
The button gets ruddy hot.
The airflow on it is just hilarious.

Hi,

What do you mean 26650 batterys 'sag' ? at the moment I am using the GREEN E-Fest LI-MN 3.7v 20AMP 50AMP ..and they seem fine !? ...although I can only compare with the previous batteries I was using (PURPLE E-FEST 26650) ..

I am considering getting a few MNKE 26650 batteries..

So to clarify if I want to sub ohm/ cloud chase I should go back to an 18650 22mm mod device.. like my Stingray X ?? - Martin.

 

[VAPE-DADDY]

Hi,

What do you mean 26650 batterys 'sag' ? at the moment I am using the GREEN E-Fest LI-MN 3.7v 20AMP 50AMP ..and they seem fine !? ...although I can only compare with the previous batteries I was using (PURPLE E-FEST 26650) ..

I am considering getting a few MNKE 26650 batteries..

So to clarify if I want to sub ohm/ cloud chase I should go back to an 18650 22mm mod device.. like my Stingray X ?? - Martin.

....Also whats so funny/commical about the Dreadnauts airflow ?? seems fine to me ? - Martin.

 

[bob1]

A normal multimeter will test a hybrid device and it'll test voltage resistance or current if you need it to.

 

[Chegs]

Reason it's not the best cloud device:
26650 cells all sag like a bitch
The button gets ruddy hot.
The airflow on it is just hilarious.

1. 26650 cells sag like a bitch..Yes,true.
2. The button gets ruddy hot...Not in mine,though I have taken the switch apart & given the contacts a bloody good clean,& I don't tend to go very low resistances either.
3. The airflow on it is just hilarious...Yes,the genuine DN has both air holes on the same side,but the clone has them opposite sides.The biggest problem with them though is the airflow enters about 2 cm to fucking high to be of use,----> _ <------coils position,------> ` <------- air holes.The ONLY useful feature on the DreadNaut is having such a huge RDA means if your content with mediocre vaping,soaking the wicks leads to about 8+ hours of vaping before you need to prime it again.

There is another better use for the Dreadnaut though,taking with you when off out on the drink & encountering a group of dickwads spoiling for a fight.One clout with it results in instant silence apart from the dull thud as the clouted dickwad falls unconscious(or dead,depending on how hard you've hit them)Mine has taken up residence on the mantelpiece as an ornament to remind me never to believe the hype.

 

[Chegs]

Hi,

What do you mean 26650 batterys 'sag' ?



So to clarify if I want to sub ohm/ cloud chase I should go back to an 18650 22mm mod device.. like my Stingray X ?? - Martin.

What do you mean 26650 batterys 'sag' ? Means the battery will output 4.2 volts fresh from the charger,but if you could measure the voltage at the coils when your firing them,it will only be about 2.8 volts (depending on how big a load you place on them,will result in massive "sag" with very low resistances of 0.2 ohms etc)


So to clarify if I want to sub ohm/ cloud chase I should go back to an 18650 22mm mod device.. like my Stingray X

Often,you can discover that an 18650 will sag less than 26650 batteries at the same coil resistance.As you gain knowledge of sub-ohm vaping,battery performance etc you will discover that 1 way of avoiding shite performing 18xxx/26xxx cells is to build a lipo cell powered box mod.I have 2 home-brew box mods,one runs 6 x 2200 mah lipo cells in parallel/series giving me 8.4 volts for over 16 hours vaping,the other is 4 x 1000 mah lipo cells in parallel giving me 4.2 volts of sub-ohm squonking for 30+ hours.The 4.2 volt box mod could also output in excess of 160 amp loads(enough current to heat 5 mm solid bar,like the centre posts of my RDA's just as effectively as the bloody coils)

 

[VAPE-DADDY]

What do you mean 26650 batterys 'sag' ? Means the battery will output 4.2 volts fresh from the charger,but if you could measure the voltage at the coils when your firing them,it will only be about 2.8 volts (depending on how big a load you place on them,will result in massive "sag" with very low resistances of 0.2 ohms etc)


So to clarify if I want to sub ohm/ cloud chase I should go back to an 18650 22mm mod device.. like my Stingray X

Often,you can discover that an 18650 will sag less than 26650 batteries at the same coil resistance.As you gain knowledge of sub-ohm vaping,battery performance etc you will discover that 1 way of avoiding shite performing 18xxx/26xxx cells is to build a lipo cell powered box mod.I have 2 home-brew box mods,one runs 6 x 2200 mah lipo cells in parallel/series giving me 8.4 volts for over 16 hours vaping,the other is 4 x 1000 mah lipo cells in parallel giving me 4.2 volts of sub-ohm squonking for 30+ hours.The 4.2 volt box mod could also output in excess of 160 amp loads(enough current to heat 5 mm solid bar,like the centre posts of my RDA's just as effectively as the bloody coils)

Something else I am unsure of is on my E-Fest batteries it has printed "32A / 64A Discharge Current" what does this mean ??

 

[robertgoldring]

Can you get those steel inner tubes to go in the dreadnought, I have some for my panzer 26650. This allows me to use any battery I like, including but not limited to vtc5s,

 

[Chegs]

Something else I am unsure of is on my E-Fest batteries it has printed "32A / 64A Discharge Current" what does this mean ??

This just indicates the usable current you can draw from them.The 32A is the continuous current (which should be the maximum you ever subject the battery to) & the 64A is the maximum you should ever draw(in reality though,the 32A figure should be the maximum you draw.Constantly subjecting batteries to more than the continuous current does reduce the lifetime of the battery,and as they age they start to have a lower maximum current which could result in the battery venting at a lower current than the label claims)

This is why manufacturers should ALL use the SAME testing procedure,and then label their batteries with meaningful,useful information instead of labels claiming their batteries can be subjected to 64A for 30 seconds occasionally,which makes people think "My battery can supply 64 amps,so I can build 0.02 ohm coils & the battery won't vent" then post the gruesome video on YouTube of their burns from the venting.

Just because you have subjected your batteries to way beyond the manufacturers stated continuous rated loads regularly without incident,does NOT mean that it won't happen to you.I soon tired of searching for,then researching further the claims for the various round cells & whether there was a possibility that brand A might be a poor quality copy and changed to an entirely different type of cell.These cells ARE designed for R/C model electric motors & have way higher than 18xxx/26xxx current handling abilities,higher current handling ability than I would EVER need for vaping usage but that doesn't mean I don't handle/use them without the utmost care.Only an utter moron would abuse a li-ion/lipo cell as the amount of energy they can store could be fatal if allowed to escape uncontrollably.

 

[gords1001]

Efest aren't manufacturers. Just dangerous con artists. I'd stay away from mnke cells too. I've found info about them that I just dont like.

thoughts and notes on cells re:- matt gerrish vttv

 

[VAPE-DADDY]

What make and spec batteries would you recommend ?