Orian 2 rba avalible now

[MHL]

Still not had any issues from mine. The fit is nice and tight too.

Mine was ok the first week or so then it started doing it but the last couple of days its been fine no.jumping is.if down though I did change to a round wire build was using a ni80 clapton when it was doing it

Funny you should say that. I just came here to post... I had been using SS wire. I changed to kanthal.about 4 hours ago and haven't had an issue yet.

 

[stuartd]

Funny you should say that. I just came here to post... I had been using SS wire. I changed to kanthal.about 4 hours ago and haven't had an issue yet.

Its weird I use ni80 in all my builds and no ohm jumping in a rta or boro mod but put it in this rba ohm/watt jumping everytime. I guess the mod or rba doesnt like that wire lol

 

[MHL]

Its weird I use ni80 in all my builds and no ohm jumping in a rta or boro mod but put it in this rba ohm/watt jumping everytime. I guess the mod or rba doesnt like that wire lol

Same, been using stainless for 6m now, no problems anywhere else.

It's a bit shit init. But for the most part I am just glad to get it sorted. Still had no issues, so it must be that.

 

[rew]

I got a simple round wire ni80 in mine.

 

[quincey43]

I only use kanthal and had no problems at all. For me personally I found the tubes from stealthvape too tight for me and I will stick to my 1.5 coil I made for the airflow works just how I want it.

 

[Crispycritters]

Its weird I use ni80 in all my builds and no ohm jumping in a rta or boro mod but put it in this rba ohm/watt jumping everytime. I guess the mod or rba doesnt like that wire lol

I doubt that the resistance jumping has anything to do with your choice of wire - anything that depends on magnets to hold a constant solid connection can be hit or miss, add a bit of condensation or a teeny bit of juice and you've got a recipe for bouncy ohms.

 

[ZT]

I got two off of @stealthvape withbthe workarounds

Think they are great

Turned it into a mini aio

 

[MHL]

I doubt that the resistance jumping has anything to do with your choice of wire - anything that depends on magnets to hold a constant solid connection can be hit or miss, add a bit of condensation or a teeny bit of juice and you've got a recipe for bouncy ohms.

Maybe it's the resistance as opposed to the wire specifically.

SS definitely is a jumper for me. K seems pretty solid, except when I use a very low number of wraps, then it behaves strangely. The W stays at it's set value, but the amount of current going through it seems to fluctuate - so I have to alternate between 5w and 12w to produce a consistent level of vapour.

 

[Crispycritters]

Maybe it's the resistance as opposed to the wire specifically.

SS definitely is a jumper for me. K seems pretty solid, except when I use a very low number of wraps, then it behaves strangely. The W stays at it's set value, but the amount of current going through it seems to fluctuate - so I have to alternate between 5w and 12w to produce a consistent level of vapour.

SS will fluctuate - because of the resistance increasing when heated it can be used as a TC wire, but because the increase in resistance is minimal it is best not to go much below 0.30ish ohms in TC mode, preferably a bit higher to give the chipset a fighting chance of accurately reading the resistance increase because it isn't much.

Because the increase in resistance is minimal, particularly with low ohm DL builds, it can be used for Wattage mode. In wattage mode it doesn't really matter if the coil resistance is slightly higher when it is warm as a regulated mod should adjust the voltage it sends to the 510 each time you press the fire button based on the resistance it reads at the time, even if the resistance is locked in there shouldn't be a huge variation, maybe a couple of watts max.

If you're having to vary the power between 5 to 12W I doubt it is the wire that is the cause of the problem - it sounds like a bad connection to me as the only time I've had similar problems it was down to a loose/bad connection in the atomiser, With pod systems I always suspect a loose connection because of most of them relying on a couple of small magnets which are never going to give the same contact pressure as a threaded connection and the slightest free play in the pod could disturb the connection creating temporary higher resistance, the mod then sends higher voltage and you end up with a vape that is as hot as fck - thats probably why you're having to drop the Wattage to 5 Watts..

If the grubscrews are gripping the wire firmly and the top of the mod is clean and dry, maybe trying a different pod if you have one to see if the different magnets give a better connection.

 

[MHL]

SS will fluctuate - because of the resistance increasing when heated it can be used as a TC wire, but because the increase in resistance is minimal it is best not to go much below 0.30ish ohms in TC mode, preferably a bit higher to give the chipset a fighting chance of accurately reading the resistance increase because it isn't much.

Because the increase in resistance is minimal, particularly with low ohm DL builds, it can be used for Wattage mode. In wattage mode it doesn't really matter if the coil resistance is slightly higher when it is warm as a regulated mod should adjust the voltage it sends to the 510 each time you press the fire button based on the resistance it reads at the time, even if the resistance is locked in there shouldn't be a huge variation, maybe a couple of watts max.

If you're having to vary the power between 5 to 12W I doubt it is the wire that is the cause of the problem - it sounds like a bad connection to me as the only time I've had similar problems it was down to a loose/bad connection in the atomiser, With pod systems I always suspect a loose connection because of most of them relying on a couple of small magnets which are never going to give the same contact pressure as a threaded connection and the slightest free play in the pod could disturb the connection creating temporary higher resistance, the mod then sends higher voltage and you end up with a vape that is as hot as fck - thats probably why you're having to drop the Wattage to 5 Watts..

If the grubscrews are gripping the wire firmly and the top of the mod is clean and dry, maybe trying a different pod if you have one to see if the different magnets give a better connection.

Interesting

Everything you say makes sense, but annoyingly it doesn't reflect my experience. The rba is a little bit wobbly, and I initially thought it was breaking the connection somehow and doing some kind of "smart" wattage selection on reconnect. But it doesn't * seem * related to the jumping. I.e. I wobble it like a mo fo and there is no change (it is set to 10w and stays there). Then randomly, an hour later, no wobble of note, it jumps to 24w or something.

I also wondered if it was resistance related, or it was doing some kind of ohm re-read f it had not been used for a while. But time since last draw doesn't correlate with the jumping either.

It's consistent between builds, so I don't think it's not a dodgy coil grip. It would be interesting to try with another rba unit, but my gut feeling is that it will behave the same, and I can't afford to shell out another 30 quid to test it

From what little I know - and it is little - I am thinking that it is indirectly related to the wire - i.e. the chipset mght be trying to do something clever based on resistance, designed with stock coils in mind, not rba usage.

ETA: Thinking about it, it is held in with a mech clip, not with magnets.