RDA and Mech Mod Intro

[oldhippydude]

Thanks for your help.

So I should be ok with these? https://www.cloudzvapour.com/product/fused-clapton-pre-made-coils-0-45ohm/

When using RDA's how often do you drip liquid on to the coils? Is it the same as sub ohm tanks, i.e. when the flavour goes or you get a burnt taste?

Most people find simple coils work better in mechs, especially single cell mechs.

Using a clapton is likely to have a ramp up time that most people do not like.
I personally build high res coils made of kanthal but others like other wires that ramp up quicker like nichrome or ss.
It really does help to build your own coils for mechs and simple coils are easy to build.

A good starting point is to decide what sort of wattage you want to vape at. work out what wire will give you that power with a reasonable number of wraps and work out if that can be done safely with your battery.

 

[oldhippydude]

Oh and can I just use the same liquids I’ve been using in my sub ohm tanks or do I need to be getting something different.

Sorry again for all the questions

A rda will vape anything you like from 100% vg to 100% pg. Though high pg might be a bit harsh for most folks taste.
unlike a tank you are dumping the juice right onto the wick so there is not usually any wicking problems.

 

[EmbraSewerRat]

@ChrisMcrUK - Well worth you going thro' ALL the threads on mechs on here to get a hang on things, but fair play to you for asking first 'fore doing something daft. Re-reading what @speedfreek67 wrote earlier and going thro' Tubby pdf is useful and finest kind to know.

Highly recommend getting some Brochroem fae stealthvape, finest kind kit to make peachy keen coils for a mech. It is flattened nichrome so not only do you get a coil that is fairly quick to ramp up, you get a fair whack of surface area to make the vapours. And it is easy to wrap - what more do you need. While others will disagree, you really don't need fancy coils for a mech. For a good balance of good flavour tooting and good battery life, be smart, get brochrome ( no, despite persistent asking I am no sponsored...mutter, mutter...)

Make sure also that you are regularly swabbing all the threads on the tubes and atty. Strip out the switch every so often to see how things are going is also good practice. You can use just an alcohol hand gel and an ear bud thingy. If you want to be flash and ultra bright, get some 'autosol', some microfibre cloths and an old toothbrush. Clean threads mean less voltage drop and more happy toots.

Keep an eye on the contact points of your sells to. you might get some arcing ( go read up laddie!!) but with a rubber or a fibreglass pen it can be swabbed off. Heavy arc marks mean there could be issues with the switch, in that case ask on here for advice!!

Any other questions or issues - ASK first!

 

[ChrisMcrUK]

@ChrisMcrUK - Well worth you going thro' ALL the threads on mechs on here to get a hang on things, but fair play to you for asking first 'fore doing something daft. Re-reading what @speedfreek67 wrote earlier and going thro' Tubby pdf is useful and finest kind to know.

Highly recommend getting some Brochroem fae stealthvape, finest kind kit to make peachy keen coils for a mech. It is flattened nichrome so not only do you get a coil that is fairly quick to ramp up, you get a fair whack of surface area to make the vapours. And it is easy to wrap - what more do you need. While others will disagree, you really don't need fancy coils for a mech. For a good balance of good flavour tooting and good battery life, be smart, get brochrome ( no, despite persistent asking I am no sponsored...mutter, mutter...)

Make sure also that you are regularly swabbing all the threads on the tubes and atty. Strip out the switch every so often to see how things are going is also good practice. You can use just an alcohol hand gel and an ear bud thingy. If you want to be flash and ultra bright, get some 'autosol', some microfibre cloths and an old toothbrush. Clean threads mean less voltage drop and more happy toots.

Keep an eye on the contact points of your sells to. you might get some arcing ( go read up laddie!!) but with a rubber or a fibreglass pen it can be swabbed off. Heavy arc marks mean there could be issues with the switch, in that case ask on here for advice!!

Any other questions or issues - ASK first!

What does AWG stand for? Just looking I could get 19AWG, 21AWG and 24AWG. Which one would you recommend?

 

[Deleted member 54254]

American wire gauge

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/AWG to Metric Conversion Chart.pdf

 

[EmbraSewerRat]

What does AWG stand for? Just looking I could get 19AWG, 21AWG and 24AWG. Which one would you recommend?

24 or 25.
Probably 24g which in proper money means 0.5mm. So use that in the coil calculators you will be using...!

Dual coils with that, 3mm inner and say 7 wraps will be ~0.2 ohms. So well within operating parameters and makes good vape. That was the set I used mainly in my mechs.

 

[Simon G]

To add to everything else ..... stick the RDA on your regulated mod and get used to building and using it on that first. There's no second chances with a mech, no 'atomiser short' messages. Don't put it on the mech until you 100% know what you are doing and are aware of what can go wrong.

 

[speedfreek67]

This is an old build now, so it's not so bright and shiny, but it's 24 gauge flat nichrome (Ni80) or Brochrome, 6 and a half wraps (coz the coil legs point in the same direction just like you need for the RDA you are getting, although these are mounted horizontally whereas yours will be mounted vertically), 3mm inner diameter comes out at around 0.23 ohms. These are spaced coils.

You'll need a coiling jig with a 3mm rod but coils are easy to make if you are good with your hands, and there are many tutorials out there on coil making and installation.

And here is a screenshot taken from http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?mat=n80&s=dp&r=0.23&awg=24&id=3 that describes the build:

 

[ChrisMcrUK]

This is an old build now, so it's not so bright and shiny, but it's 24 gauge flat nichrome (Ni80) or Brochrome, 6 and a half wraps (coz the coil legs point in the same direction just like you need for the RDA you are getting, although these are mounted horizontally whereas yours will be mounted vertically), 3mm inner diameter comes out at around 0.23 ohms. These are spaced coils.

You'll need a coiling jig with a 3mm rod but coils are easy to make if you are good with your hands, and there are many tutorials out there on coil making and installation.

View attachment 182386

And here is a screenshot taken from http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?mat=n80&s=dp&r=0.23&awg=24&id=3 that describes the build:

View attachment 182387

Thanks for this.

I have ordered some of this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192554103014

I'm unsure what the diameter is from the info. Is it 0.68mm or 0.3mm? I've just inputted 24AWG and it's set the diameter to 0.511 and I can't change it without changing the AWG. Does the below look ok?

 

[oldhippydude]

Thanks for this.

I have ordered some of this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192554103014

I'm unsure what the diameter is from the info. Is it 0.68mm or 0.3mm? I've just inputted 24AWG and it's set the diameter to 0.511 and I can't change it without changing the AWG. Does the below look ok?

View attachment 182395

It is the equivalent of .511 round wire.
As the calculator shows.
You only have to input awg OR mm, they are just different ways of measuring the same thing.