Stepping into the build world
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the mutt
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Think I might just have to go for a fogger V4, have seen one on here at a very reasonable price.
And as it is a little more challenging from what I can see it appeals to me more, was tempted by the taifun GT but apparently leakage is an issue so not so tempted now.
And as it is a little more challenging from what I can see it appeals to me more, was tempted by the taifun GT but apparently leakage is an issue so not so tempted now.
the mutt
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Fogger V4 clone - ordered (thanks VapeInc)
MechMod & cotton & wire ordered (Thanks M-Vapes)
Now to await the arrival and start tinkering
Thanks to you all for your advice and help, I'm sure I will post excited pics when I do a successful build
MechMod & cotton & wire ordered (Thanks M-Vapes)
Now to await the arrival and start tinkering
Thanks to you all for your advice and help, I'm sure I will post excited pics when I do a successful build
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the mutt
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OK so been doing my research as I like to do and I am pretty sure I have the theory of the mechanics down, several coil build videos watched and I have seen a fair few methods, some good tutorials in the practical side (some howlers too)
HOWEVER
A few things I need clarified and no one seems to do the science behind why they use certain guages or wire, what the outcome differences are etc so o will break my questions down.
Coil turns.
Why 5 or 6, is this a rule of thumb? (as most seem to use those numbers) my thought would be the more loops the larger the surface area the more vape.
Does the number of coil turns alter the resistance or is that down to the guage of wire? (I do understand the resistance changes after the first few uses etc)
What guage produces what resistance?
I know this is probably more nerdy than a lot will go for and most accept the rule of thumb or the "it just does" outlook but Id rather know all the relevent mechanics and science to allow me to do things safely and productively on my own knowledge and understanding of it all.
If this has been covered elsewhere and I just haven't found it yet (the joys of trying to search between drives) feel free to kick my arse in that direction.
HOWEVER
A few things I need clarified and no one seems to do the science behind why they use certain guages or wire, what the outcome differences are etc so o will break my questions down.
Coil turns.
Why 5 or 6, is this a rule of thumb? (as most seem to use those numbers) my thought would be the more loops the larger the surface area the more vape.
Does the number of coil turns alter the resistance or is that down to the guage of wire? (I do understand the resistance changes after the first few uses etc)
What guage produces what resistance?
I know this is probably more nerdy than a lot will go for and most accept the rule of thumb or the "it just does" outlook but Id rather know all the relevent mechanics and science to allow me to do things safely and productively on my own knowledge and understanding of it all.
If this has been covered elsewhere and I just haven't found it yet (the joys of trying to search between drives) feel free to kick my arse in that direction.
Diche
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The resistance of a length of wire is governed by two things. Thickness and length. Thicker wire has a lower resistance than thinner wire, the longer a piece of wire the greater its resistance. If you have a look at the Vape Mesh Co you will see the resistance per meter is listed for each diameter of wire.
So length of the piece of wire between the posts is the key to resistance, this can be controlled by number of wraps and size of mandrel. For my drippers I use anything from 6 to 10 wraps, but aim for about 8 as number of wraps governs ramp up time (the time it takes for the coil to reach full heat)
Magma, Stillare or if you are a real glutton for punishment try a tobh. The reason tobhs are harder is they are dual coil devices as the airflow isn't set up for single coils. Therefore not recommended for beginners, but it is what I started on
So length of the piece of wire between the posts is the key to resistance, this can be controlled by number of wraps and size of mandrel. For my drippers I use anything from 6 to 10 wraps, but aim for about 8 as number of wraps governs ramp up time (the time it takes for the coil to reach full heat)
Magma, Stillare or if you are a real glutton for punishment try a tobh. The reason tobhs are harder is they are dual coil devices as the airflow isn't set up for single coils. Therefore not recommended for beginners, but it is what I started on
Rab D
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For starting out, I'd suggest a 26650-sized dripper; they have the biggest build decks, so everything is easier to see and less fiddly.
In terms of build deck size, from big (easy) to little (hard; need good eyesight) - 26650 dripper; 22mm dripper/Taifun GT; Kayfun; Orchid.
Drippers which have holes in the posts through which you feed the wire, then screw down, are easier than the ones where you have to wrap the wire around the screw & screw down at same time.
Thicker wire (0.3 and up) holds its shape better and is less springy than thin wire (0.25 and down).
However, the most troublesome aspect of building for a noob in my experience is poor QC by manufacturers - e.g., dripper top caps are often too tight (lube the o-ring with juice, but got to get the damn thing off first), so are screws (nearly stripped the head of a Kayfun screw with my Poundland screwdrivers, had to go buy a good set from Maplins), and sometimes cloners make mistakes because they don't understand how the original works (O-rings on some Fasttech Taifun GT decks too thin to hold the sleeve).
Great when it all comes together, though! I've found you have to build 'em, to really understand how they work. Probably cos I'm a bit dim...
In terms of build deck size, from big (easy) to little (hard; need good eyesight) - 26650 dripper; 22mm dripper/Taifun GT; Kayfun; Orchid.
Drippers which have holes in the posts through which you feed the wire, then screw down, are easier than the ones where you have to wrap the wire around the screw & screw down at same time.
Thicker wire (0.3 and up) holds its shape better and is less springy than thin wire (0.25 and down).
However, the most troublesome aspect of building for a noob in my experience is poor QC by manufacturers - e.g., dripper top caps are often too tight (lube the o-ring with juice, but got to get the damn thing off first), so are screws (nearly stripped the head of a Kayfun screw with my Poundland screwdrivers, had to go buy a good set from Maplins), and sometimes cloners make mistakes because they don't understand how the original works (O-rings on some Fasttech Taifun GT decks too thin to hold the sleeve).
Great when it all comes together, though! I've found you have to build 'em, to really understand how they work. Probably cos I'm a bit dim...
the mutt
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Cheers muchly, will have a look at that website.
As I said its not so much the mechanics of the built its the science of it, I am a bit of a nerd and like to know why and how it all comes together.
I know when building the first few times will be a trial and error learning process for me but to be able to work out to a certain degree the required outcome in resistance would be a massive advantage in the first place, I want a fine balance of flavour to cloud
I have a fogger V4 coming from VapeINC but am also looking at getting a dripper in the not so distant future (IE when the good lady isn't within eye sight of the computer)
As I said its not so much the mechanics of the built its the science of it, I am a bit of a nerd and like to know why and how it all comes together.
I know when building the first few times will be a trial and error learning process for me but to be able to work out to a certain degree the required outcome in resistance would be a massive advantage in the first place, I want a fine balance of flavour to cloud
I have a fogger V4 coming from VapeINC but am also looking at getting a dripper in the not so distant future (IE when the good lady isn't within eye sight of the computer)
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