Tips for the Stealthvape 510 connector.

[Raguri]

Hey all,
I've been lucky enough to put this connector through its paces, and had a few hiccups due to my own error...

So, I thought I'd quickly help you all with what I now believe is the nicest connector I've found.


Most box mods use fat daddys 510, however, it is flawed in one major way if you want to build high current capable mods...
Pin size.

The stealthvape 510 is a flat bottom, no actual pin to solder into... this means, any awg of wire is capable if you have the skill... I believe I'm using 3mm at the moment. Couldn't fit the 2.5mm into the fdv.
However, due to it being flat, you must solder it quickly. If you know how to hover solder, great! You're there.
If not, hold your iron above the connector, and try to drop solder onto it. Once some solder is there, quickly dab it with the iron to ensure it spreads out nicely.
Then, take your tinned wire, and lay it directly on top, and again drop solder around it.
This will kinda tack weld the wire on. And now all you need to do, is heat the wire to fuse it all.

With the negative connection, my best tip is... you see the bit at the top of your mosfet?
That is the drain as well.
Bend off the drain leg, and solder the negative tab to the back of the fet, saves space and also reduces the total circuit resistance.

Once you're all soldered up, I've found there is a bit of a break in period, so take it easy for the first hour or so then crank it up.
I'm currently vaping a 0.05 OHM set up on the Lipo box I finished earlier, and nothings gone wrong...

Why?
As I didn't fry the spring by constantly attacking it with heat... as I had before...

Hopefully this helps..

 

[steamtrain]

Hey all,
I've been lucky enough to put this connector through its paces, and had a few hiccups due to my own error...

So, I thought I'd quickly help you all with what I now believe is the nicest connector I've found.


Most box mods use fat daddys 510, however, it is flawed in one major way if you want to build high current capable mods...
Pin size.

The stealthvape 510 is a flat bottom, no actual pin to solder into... this means, any awg of wire is capable if you have the skill... I believe I'm using 3mm at the moment. Couldn't fit the 2.5mm into the fdv.
However, due to it being flat, you must solder it quickly. If you know how to hover solder, great! You're there.
If not, hold your iron above the connector, and try to drop solder onto it. Once some solder is there, quickly dab it with the iron to ensure it spreads out nicely.
Then, take your tinned wire, and lay it directly on top, and again drop solder around it.
This will kinda tack weld the wire on. And now all you need to do, is heat the wire to fuse it all.

With the negative connection, my best tip is... you see the bit at the top of your mosfet?
That is the drain as well.
Bend off the drain leg, and solder the negative tab to the back of the fet, saves space and also reduces the total circuit resistance.

Once you're all soldered up, I've found there is a bit of a break in period, so take it easy for the first hour or so then crank it up.
I'm currently vaping a 0.05 OHM set up on the Lipo box I finished earlier, and nothings gone wrong...

Why?
As I didn't fry the spring by constantly attacking it with heat... as I had before...

Hopefully this helps..

nice advice buddy how you finding the lipo insteas of 18650s ?

 

[Raguri]

nice advice buddy how you finding the lipo insteas of 18650s ?

Much better.
Lasts a full day at 0.05, and 0.05 is safe for it to run.
What's not to like?

 

[Mawsley]

Much better.
Lasts a full day at 0.05, and 0.05 is safe for it to run.
What's not to like?

It doesn't squonk.

 

[Tubbyengineer]

Hey all,
I've been lucky enough to put this connector through its paces, and had a few hiccups due to my own error...

So, I thought I'd quickly help you all with what I now believe is the nicest connector I've found.


Most box mods use fat daddys 510, however, it is flawed in one major way if you want to build high current capable mods...
Pin size.

The stealthvape 510 is a flat bottom, no actual pin to solder into... this means, any awg of wire is capable if you have the skill... I believe I'm using 3mm at the moment. Couldn't fit the 2.5mm into the fdv.
However, due to it being flat, you must solder it quickly. If you know how to hover solder, great! You're there.
If not, hold your iron above the connector, and try to drop solder onto it. Once some solder is there, quickly dab it with the iron to ensure it spreads out nicely.
Then, take your tinned wire, and lay it directly on top, and again drop solder around it.
This will kinda tack weld the wire on. And now all you need to do, is heat the wire to fuse it all.

With the negative connection, my best tip is... you see the bit at the top of your mosfet?
That is the drain as well.
Bend off the drain leg, and solder the negative tab to the back of the fet, saves space and also reduces the total circuit resistance.

Once you're all soldered up, I've found there is a bit of a break in period, so take it easy for the first hour or so then crank it up.
I'm currently vaping a 0.05 OHM set up on the Lipo box I finished earlier, and nothings gone wrong...

Why?
As I didn't fry the spring by constantly attacking it with heat... as I had before...

Hopefully this helps..

Arggggghhhhhhhhhhhhh, Raggers you twonk - That negative tab is the Heatsink, it's there to fix to a nice big solid lump of metal to take heat away from your mosfet, you really should solder directly to the leg and bolt a nice big chunk of metal to your mosfet...

You better show it to me at Vapefest, and I'll have a look at your mod too...

 

[Raguri]

Arggggghhhhhhhhhhhhh, Raggers you twonk - That negative tab is the Heatsink, it's there to fix to a nice big solid lump of metal to take heat away from your mosfet, you really should solder directly to the leg and bolt a nice big chunk of metal to your mosfet...

You better show it to me at Vapefest, and I'll have a look at your mod too...

Depends on what get you use, the 195 amp one. .. 3014 I think or something like that has the drain extended to the heatsink,
Therefore, it's actually much more efficient soldering to that, as after all, I have thermal paste underneath the entire fet

 

[tonystr]

Raguri

I like your box

What lipo are you using. Make, rating, volts. Thanks

 

[steamtrain]

Much better.
Lasts a full day at 0.05, and 0.05 is safe for it to run.
What's not to like?

veryy nicee will have to invest in one of these and try and build 1 , that could go very very wrong tho if i can repair a motorbike engine building a little box cant be to hard now can it ??? lol

 

[ax]

Hey all,
I've been lucky enough to put this connector through its paces, and had a few hiccups due to my own error...

So, I thought I'd quickly help you all with what I now believe is the nicest connector I've found.


Most box mods use fat daddys 510, however, it is flawed in one major way if you want to build high current capable mods...
Pin size.

The stealthvape 510 is a flat bottom, no actual pin to solder into... this means, any awg of wire is capable if you have the skill... I believe I'm using 3mm at the moment. Couldn't fit the 2.5mm into the fdv.
However, due to it being flat, you must solder it quickly. If you know how to hover solder, great! You're there.
If not, hold your iron above the connector, and try to drop solder onto it. Once some solder is there, quickly dab it with the iron to ensure it spreads out nicely.
Then, take your tinned wire, and lay it directly on top, and again drop solder around it.
This will kinda tack weld the wire on. And now all you need to do, is heat the wire to fuse it all.

With the negative connection, my best tip is... you see the bit at the top of your mosfet?
That is the drain as well.
Bend off the drain leg, and solder the negative tab to the back of the fet, saves space and also reduces the total circuit resistance.

Once you're all soldered up, I've found there is a bit of a break in period, so take it easy for the first hour or so then crank it up.
I'm currently vaping a 0.05 OHM set up on the Lipo box I finished earlier, and nothings gone wrong...

Why?
As I didn't fry the spring by constantly attacking it with heat... as I had before...

Hopefully this helps..

You sir, are a genius. I've fried 3 positive pins now. One went within 25 mins of putting it in, the others gave up in 24 hours, I gave up and put a FDV in, much to my disgust. I shall have to try this and see what happens. stealthvape, Rob, you aware of this one?

 

[Raguri]

You sir, are a genius. I've fried 3 positive pins now. One went within 25 mins of putting it in, the others gave up in 24 hours, I gave up and put a FDV in, much to my disgust. I shall have to try this and see what happens. stealthvape, Rob, you aware of this one?

I've been keeping Rob updated as he asked me to test them to the limits.
Its much like a DNA chip, it's all down to the soldering.

I'm currently running a 0.11 OHM build on 8.4v (drops to 7.9v) and a 0.04 on the 4.2v (drops to 3.9...)

Neither are dead.
I did have an issue with a fake mosfet however causing one to collapse (hard short)