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Tonyb pulse aio mod and rba

3fvape are selling it on pre order for $50. but it won't be shipped till the 30th of December if they get stock in time but probably more than likely sometime in January so atleast a 6-8 week wait
 
EIEIO's leave me cold, the colours aren't helping. Just give me a regular mod and tank and leave me to get on with it :)
 
Vandy Vape don't mention the voltage output, just the battery input and the (meaningless) 80W potential. Their listings for very other adjustable wattage regulated mod in their range clearly lists the voltage output and shows they all have boost circuitry, but this information has been mysteriously omitted in the listing for the Pulse AIO.

Maybe it has the same board as the Kylin AIO (which can put out 5.5V), but I'd check carefully before parting with money as it could have a cheap shitty battery voltage only board.
 
Vandy Vape don't mention the voltage output, just the battery input and the (meaningless) 80W potential. Their listings for very other adjustable wattage regulated mod in their range clearly lists the voltage output and shows they all have boost circuitry, but this information has been mysteriously omitted in the listing for the Pulse AIO.

Maybe it has the same board as the Kylin AIO (which can put out 5.5V), but I'd check carefully before parting with money as it could have a cheap shitty battery voltage only board.

Do you often go above 4v out of interest?

I think those who actually use higher voltage are somewhat of a dying breed and I'm not sure this type of device is designed to appeal to those anyway...

Those who want megawatts tend to use super sub-ohm which doesn't need a lot of voltage to achieve, while MTL types with higher builds and lower wattage don't usually need a higher voltage either.

My personal happy place across the board tends to sit at about 3.6-3.7v...
 
Do you often go above 4v out of interest?

I think those who actually use higher voltage are somewhat of a dying breed and I'm not sure this type of device is designed to appeal to those anyway...

Those who want megawatts tend to use super sub-ohm which doesn't need a lot of voltage to achieve, while MTL types with higher builds and lower wattage don't usually need a higher voltage either.

My personal happy place across the board tends to sit at about 3.6-3.7v...

The problem is I regularly vape loose MTL at 20 Watts or single coil DL 0.40 ohm at 45 Watts on single 18650 mods, and this mod will not be able to achieve either.

I may well be in a minority, but if you take into account battery sag under load and power consumption of the circuitry you may find it cannot meet your requirements of 3.6 to 3.7 Volts. Don't forget that the full voltage of the battery never actually makes it to the 510 as there is ALWAYS voltage drop in mods like these, you may find that if you need 3.6 volts you will have to swap out the battery at 3.8 Volts for MTL or a higher voltage for DL (unless you use large, low ohm coils) as the mod will be unable to provide the power you need once the battery voltage drops to this level.

You can, of course use lower ohm builds to compensate for the absence of voltage boost circuitry, but, for example - if you use 28ga wire for MTL would you be happy using thicker lower resistance wires so the mod can provide the wattage you need for the entire battery charge as it wont be an identical vape even if the wattage is the same?

Personally I'm happy to build for the voltage limitations of the battery for mech mods, but when it comes to regulated devices I don't want to be breaking out the calculator or building to lower ohms to compensate for the inadequacies of the board.

IMO battery voltage only boards belong in pod mods that run dedicated stock coils where the ohms and max wattage ratings of the coils are tailored to the voltage capabilities of the board (for the first three quarters of the battery charge at least), once you add an RBA to the mix they no longer make as much sense. However, from a business outlook the manufacturers save 20p on each board by removing voltage boost circuitry and will stand to sell more coils when a newbie with no knowledge of Ohms Law tries out the RBA and comes to the conclusion that RBAs are shit because they aren't familiar with Ohms Law.

Sorry bud, but I detest this type of penny pinching cost cutting. I hope they are using the board from the Kylin AIO and not mentioning the voltage output was an oversight, but I'll avoid this one until I find out for sure if it has boost circuitry or not. If it doesn't I'll pass, even if Washington Vapes end up selling them for £10.
 
The problem is I regularly vape loose MTL at 20 Watts or single coil DL 0.40 ohm at 45 Watts on single 18650 mods, and this mod will not be able to achieve either.

I may well be in a minority, but if you take into account battery sag under load and power consumption of the circuitry you may find it cannot meet your requirements of 3.6 to 3.7 Volts. Don't forget that the full voltage of the battery never actually makes it to the 510 as there is ALWAYS voltage drop in mods like these, you may find that if you need 3.6 volts you will have to swap out the battery at 3.8 Volts for MTL or a higher voltage for DL (unless you use large, low ohm coils) as the mod will be unable to provide the power you need once the battery voltage drops to this level.

You can, of course use lower ohm builds to compensate for the absence of voltage boost circuitry, but, for example - if you use 28ga wire for MTL would you be happy using thicker lower resistance wires so the mod can provide the wattage you need for the entire battery charge as it wont be an identical vape even if the wattage is the same?

Personally I'm happy to build for the voltage limitations of the battery for mech mods, but when it comes to regulated devices I don't want to be breaking out the calculator or building to lower ohms to compensate for the inadequacies of the board.

IMO battery voltage only boards belong in pod mods that run dedicated stock coils where the ohms and max wattage ratings of the coils are tailored to the voltage capabilities of the board (for the first three quarters of the battery charge at least), once you add an RBA to the mix they no longer make as much sense. However, from a business outlook the manufacturers save 20p on each board by removing voltage boost circuitry and will stand to sell more coils when a newbie with no knowledge of Ohms Law tries out the RBA and comes to the conclusion that RBAs are shit because they aren't familiar with Ohms Law.

Sorry bud, but I detest this type of penny pinching cost cutting. I hope they are using the board from the Kylin AIO and not mentioning the voltage output was an oversight, but I'll avoid this one until I find out for sure if it has boost circuitry or not. If it doesn't I'll pass, even if Washington Vapes end up selling them for £10.

I get what you're saying, I've just never had experience of a mod that was unable to boost say a 3.4v (almost 'flat') cell up to 3.6-3.7v with reasonable reliability, even those with a stated max of 4.2v...

If what you're describing is how some do it, then yes, definitely crap for a much larger proportion of users than I at first assumed.
 
Probably a bit late to the party on this one. Having just seen it up on ecigone and then watched a couple of vids on youtube my opinion, for what its worth, is if anyone is going to shell out £70 on they must have received too much money from Grandma for Christmas! It just looks nasty and the slightest drop and it would smash into a 1000 pieces, there's so much plastic involved it's enough to give Greta a coronary! I must admit I was intrigued by the height-adjustable positive table at first, but on second thought I can see that, over time when it wears, it's going to provide all sorts of connection issues and resistance readings that jump all over the shop. To me, it looks like a cheaper made version of their Kylin AIO using the same chip but with the added option of being able to use a boro tank and associated 3rd party rba's, which in itself, is good but there are so many better mods that offer that option at roughly the same price point, the SXK Supbox for one.
It just looks like a pound shop B.B and maybe would be worth the, as others have mentioned, the £30 it will invariably be in a couple of months' time, but £70 to £90, there's so much better about for that kind of money.
 
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