Tutorial - Sealing Connection Pin SXK BB USB Version

[ep3eddie]

That sounds about right, I was eyeing up the Gorilla option, let us know if it works okay.

Hey, sorry for the delay, took me a minute to get around to doing it with some stuff going on, then forgot to update after. I used the Gorilla sealant and it seems to have worked. I got crazy leakage after (busted o ring), and rather than quickly drain into the board it seems that it all just pooled up and stayed in, so I’d say it made a nice seal.

Word of note, this stuff is THICK. Like super thick. Pretty difficult to apply as it doesn’t like to smear or bond to anything, and gels up with itself very very quickly. For anyone going this route, I did it. I’m not very skilled with this stuff and it wasn’t too hard. But your best bet is to glob it on and use more than you need, the excess will seep out when you press it down. And press it down you must, because this stuff is so gummy and dries so quickly, it will want to push that pin out. Keep it pushed down, you’re going to need to hold it for probably 5 minutes, I think I did 10 to be safe. Then after that put a boro in (with bridge) and screw that thing in tight as you can. Maybe I was overly cautious, but my pin is nice and tight now.

 

[ep3eddie]

That sounds about right, I was eyeing up the Gorilla option, let us know if it works okay.

Update: Total failure

I honestly think I sealed the pin correctly, it’s still tight in there and I put so much adhesive, wiped the excess and held with my hand until pretty dry, then like I said used a boro to hold. Then I got the 0.0W every time I went to hit. Nothing worked. Opened it up to find the bottom of the board had juice on it, used some alcohol, but that didn’t help.

Like I said, I really do think I had it sealed. After one week, juice would sit on the pin, it wouldn’t quickly get sucked up like it did before.

If I had to guess, maybe the mint in the juices I use reacted with the adhesive and ate through it somewhere, but now I’ve got a dead board, mod ain’t even three months old. RIP, do yourselves a favor and use an alternative. If you choose to use the Gorilla adhesive, understand you are doing so at your own risk, hopefully my bad fortune stops someone else from having the same issue.

 

[Gsmit1]

Update: Total failure

I honestly think I sealed the pin correctly, it’s still tight in there and I put so much adhesive, wiped the excess and held with my hand until pretty dry, then like I said used a boro to hold. Then I got the 0.0W every time I went to hit. Nothing worked. Opened it up to find the bottom of the board had juice on it, used some alcohol, but that didn’t help.

Like I said, I really do think I had it sealed. After one week, juice would sit on the pin, it wouldn’t quickly get sucked up like it did before.

If I had to guess, maybe the mint in the juices I use reacted with the adhesive and ate through it somewhere, but now I’ve got a dead board, mod ain’t even three months old. RIP, do yourselves a favor and use an alternative. If you choose to use the Gorilla adhesive, understand you are doing so at your own risk, hopefully my bad fortune stops someone else from having the same issue.

Get some quick drying electronic spray cleaner like This:

Take the screen off (trust me, I killed one) and soak the whole board down with all the connections. You can soak it down with this stuff. Give it about 5 or 10 minutes to dry and reconnect the screen. Rig it up so you can test fire it and see if it fires. Or just put it back together and see if it fires.

Be careful with the solder joints.

 

[ep3eddie]

Get some quick drying electronic spray cleaner like This:

Take the screen off (trust me, I killed one) and soak the whole board down with all the connections. You can soak it down with this stuff. Give it about 5 or 10 minutes to dry and reconnect the screen. Rig it up so you can test fire it and see if it fires. Or just put it back together and see if it fires.

Be careful with the solder joints.

How would you go about removing the screen on the 60 watt? And any advice on the best way to remove the pin after its been sealed? (However much of a deal is left)

Also, is this the same stuff? Seems like it, but can is different

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz Amazon product ASIN B000BXOGNI

 

[Gsmit1]

How would you go about removing the screen on the 60 watt?

The way I did it is you have to go in through the other side. Take the button cover off and you'll see the small ribbon socket that holds the ribbon cable curving through from the other side.

There's a white tab that has to be gently pried up up to release the cable. Use a micro screwdriver or something. Then the screen will come off.

Getting it back in is a lot harder. I'm not gonna lie to ya. It's not complicated, but the parts are small and tedious and fragile. When putting the cable back into the socket make sure it's in all the way. I kept not getting the new one back in far enough and thinking something was wrong.

It'll feel like it's in all the way, but then you have to push it a little harder and feel it seat in there. Then of course push the clip back down to lock in the cable. Pretty much doing everything in reverse of taking it out. I'm a soon to be old man and I got it done

@Vapaneezer Scrooge can explain it better and probably has pics somewhere.

Speaking of pics I can't see yours

 

[Gsmit1]

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner

Ok, I googled that and that is the same thing. I use it all the time on vape gear. It cleans out gunk and dries really fast without harming anything.

 

[Vapaneezer Scrooge]

How would you go about removing the screen on the 60 watt? And any advice on the best way to remove the pin after its been sealed? (However much of a deal is left)

Are you sure the board is dead? could it be the adjustment button? does the rest of it work? (firing, menu etc.)

Removing a glued in pin 'should' be straight forward, using pointy ceramic tweezers or something similar you should be able to push it back out from underneath, a little force is required, the idea of using flexible contact adhesive is that it does not set firm like superglue etc. and should be flexible enough to push it back out.

Are you looking to completely removing the screen to replace it or just to clean it up? It's the one part I didn't photograph but it's as @Gsmit1 described, a little fiddly but doable if you need to swap the board, if the screen is to be cleaned and re-used just be very careful when prying it out, especially if it feels stuck down.

If you're leaving it connected to the board then there's quite a bit of room to clean it in place or wiggle it through the chassis, this is an older fixed (soldered) SXK screen but it wiggles out the same.

I think I will be doing a full board transplant soon if you do need photos.

 

[Gsmit1]

Are you sure the board is dead?

My first thought. I don't think the board is dead.

EDIT: My hands ain't what they used to be, but I have been a professional computer tech for over 20 years. Regulated mods are essentially a microcomputer with a small embedded operating system. You get a nose for these things after awhile. Could be wrong, but I don't think the board is dead from what is being reported.

 

[Gsmit1]

Are you looking to completely removing the screen to replace it or just to clean it up?

In my case, I was cleaning the board and tried to get away with not removing the screen. While spraying the board down with contact cleaner, I got the screen by accident and it killed the screen. I think he's trying to clean the board like I was. Which is why I urged him to remove the screen if he's going to spay the board down with contact cleaner. I guess if you're careful enough you could avoid getting the screen, but I personally won't chance it again

 

[Anlapo80]

Anyone try with bathroom silicone? Is It ok?