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Why do NI200 builds increase in resistance during use?

I have an IPV D2, a Sig 75TC, and a SMOK Xcube 2 as my TC devices (although they get used more on wattage mode, I like just turning the wattage up for more vapour and hotter vapour, so I treat them more like standard mod boxes and the TC is a bonus I can use occasionally). Standard mods are a sig30 watt mini, and a mech, Plus I occasionally swap with my fiancee and use her sig 50. Think I might get one of them for myself actually.

I thought it was normal, but I just wanted to clarify.

By 'going out of temp control range" I mean it increasing in temperature so much it goes past 0.3Ohms from 0.07, and the TC stops working (at least on the Sig 75 it does, I don't know about the IPV or the Xcube 2 as I use kanthal mainly, and am only dipping my toes in TC)

I vape a lot, I guess I need to give more time between pulls when using TC and it works fine without going out of the TC range.
 
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Great reply again, thanks!
I totally agree with you on a real world vaping experience rather than absolute accuracy. I believe the vaper would prefer to set a variable linear value between low and high temp rather than precisely 385F for example. We all know the temperature is approximate, precise settings are inappropriate.

So it's the 3 pole connection that's the major obstacle?

I don't see why the heatsink control/connector that you imagine could not be part of the mod, maybe with integral 510 connector. There's a decision around backwards compatibility of course ... the mod should ideally accept non-smart atties. But if this new kit was not backwards compatible, would that be the end of the world ... a deal breaker? We do like to swap our atties and mods around, though we're already used to using TC mods for TC built atties. There would be an argument based on principle against something too proprietory and maybe a battle would ensue over which "standard" would get accepted if multiple proprietory solutions emerged simultaneously. This is a watershed rather than a blocker. Potentially.

How about a 3 or 5 pole connection between atty and mod (with controller integrated) instead of the 510 screw? Or maybe the mod could have both connectors?

The end of rebuildables? Yeah, why the hell not, there's a very small percentage of us hobbyists who are into rebuilding ... the vast majority of vapers want plug and play simplicity, they're not into messing about with wire. As much as I like rebuilding I can see a future without it, buying OCC heads with temp sensor on board ... they'll become economically viable after an expensive start.

That said of course, you can put an OCC head into a tank and use a TC mod today. It's only the user interface (menu) that's needs sorting out because of the legacy issue, ie TC and non TC in the same mod. Imagine:-

You put the OCC coil and juice into the atty - all the user needs to do is set the variable airflow.
The mod detects the coil - all the user needs to do is set the temperature on a scale from low to high.

That's about as complicated as vaping needs to be, isn't it? Of course, it won't stop the minority of us dinosaurs messing about in our vape dens ... ;)

I am one of the dinosaurs in our vape dens lol, DIY'ing Ejuice and rebuilding, I prefer rebuildables to ones you buy. I actually gave my fiancee my nautilus due to that reason, and it being mouth to lung.

She now has a subtank mini, and also prefers direct to lung, so I think we both will be dinosaurs building in our secret vape dens when the regulations come in to effect.

I am buying a regulated mod a month until they come into effect, so I can hopefully have a good few years of something I find extremely enjoyable without being limited to what I get, although I think there will be work arounds.

Does anyone else here own TC devices but mainly prefer to use them in power mode?

Maybe its just me, but the rate I vape at I just love kanthal, increase the watts for hotter vapour decrease them for cooler lol.
 
Does anyone else here own TC devices but mainly prefer to use them in power mode? Maybe its just me, but the rate I vape at I just love kanthal, increase the watts for hotter vapour decrease them for cooler lol.
I've had the D2 a while now and have used it in both modes ... but now only use it for TC. I have four other non-TC mods, including 2 mechs, which I use for non-TC builds.

I think all vapers do temperature control as part of normal vaping ... nobody wants a burnt taste or a dry hit, do they? You'll know how well you do it when you change your wick. Is it blackened? Is the coil gunked up? How much juice do you get through before you need to rewick? Do you get a load of spitting when you vape?

I enjoy vaping on kanthal, I'm used to it. I'm only just getting used to TC. If you think nothing's broken then you've nothing to fix. Happy days. :)
 
I've had the D2 a while now and have used it in both modes ... but now only use it for TC. I have four other non-TC mods, including 2 mechs, which I use for non-TC builds.

I think all vapers do temperature control as part of normal vaping ... nobody wants a burnt taste or a dry hit, do they? You'll know how well you do it when you change your wick. Is it blackened? Is the coil gunked up? How much juice do you get through before you need to rewick? Do you get a load of spitting when you vape?

I enjoy vaping on kanthal, I'm used to it. I'm only just getting used to TC. If you think nothing's broken then you've nothing to fix. Happy days. :)

Well I enjoy building coils and wicking, so every few days they get changed, the longest a coil has been left in is probably a week.

The coils sometime are Orange, but not blackened.

I just find that standard watt mode gives me better control than actual TC. It could be where I am slower to grasp things due to what happened last year, that I am not fully on the TC train.

I am going to build a NI200 in my el cabron later and see how I like it, as last night I was really enjoying it but using my worst clone that leaks. (Terrible mutation x v4 copy, fasttech cheapy, I now know its worth spending a few pounds extra to get a quality clone).

I notice when I need to re drip as you can tell when the coil is getting dry, and also by how many hits you have had, so thats not a problem, and my coils aren't all gunked up as I change them regularly.

I am going to give NI200 a proper go in my el cabron on my newest mod, the smok Xcube 2, I noticed it worked much better with NI than TI, even with the coefiicient set manually to titaniums correct setting.
 
scrumpox
"So it's the 3 pole connection that's the major obstacle?

I don't see why the heatsink control/connector that you imagine could not be part of the mod, maybe with integral 510 connector. There's a decision around backwards compatibility of course ... the mod should ideally accept non-smart atties."

Yes I think so, the way round it would be to keep the 510 geometry, but might have a center connector making it a 3 channel connection. The mod would sense the presence of a 'smart' atty and adjust its mode to suit. A bit like iphone sockets that can accept the presence of headphones with built in mics. The center connector would be the sense signal return from the atomiser head, and the circuitry could then be in the mod. There are already pins for squonking that have the centre bored out, so its not a huge leap from there to put in a third connector. A short circuit between the centre pin and positive would indicate a normal atty, some sort of resistance would indicate a smart atty. The box would then auto adjust its mode to suit.

I think we've cracked it, where's my patent form?

By the way I've only been vaping for around 8 months, and I thoroughly enjoy making my own coils, I hope I'm not a dinosaur before my time!
 
Ok now I have TC working properly, I really, really like it.

It even kind of lets me know when to redrip, as it almost instantly hits the temp limit when dry, when moist it takes a little while.

I did believe I was allergic to nickel, as when I bought my first TC mod I had a throat and chest infection coming on, and as I had a sore throat after using I believed it was that, so switched to titanium, which seems to not work aswell.

Last night and today I have used nickel for the first time properly after being put off, I am not :) allergic, and this really is revolutionary to me.

Now I understand why everyone goes on about it. I think a lot of my future orders will be for NI200 as well as kanthal, as so far 3 out of 6 of my mods can do TC.
 
Just to make sure I am doing this right, I locked in the Ohm reading at .12, I do not have to do that as the resitance changed do I?

As in app the coil has risen to around 0.19, but it still is working perfectly TC wise.
 
Yes you lock in the baseline resistance at room temperature so that it can compare the active resistance reading to estimate the coil temp
 
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