DNA75 screen reads 'off' in tc mode

[ej2_sir]

thanks for everyones help with this! Ill soldier on for a bit with all the recommended fixs and if its still flakey i might buy a custom box and 510 and desolder/resolder chip into a new case. Hopefully that should leave me with a reliable mod!

 

[binky18]

hi. yes I had this problem with the nano and the bigger one. all I did was tighten down the plate as much as I could and it was fine after. also the hcigar big mod has a adjustable 510 pin. I found that it needed to be raised up to connect better to my subtank mini's. the isub tanks met the 510 fine but the subtank mini's were just a tad to short. Iv had a few issues with the screen also, what I did was remove the tank and put in a fully charged battery, connected to escribe and re-set factory settings and the issue was cleared.

 

[Arctic_Wolf]

hi. yes I had this problem with the nano and the bigger one. all I did was tighten down the plate as much as I could and it was fine after. also the hcigar big mod has a adjustable 510 pin. I found that it needed to be raised up to connect better to my subtank mini's. the isub tanks met the 510 fine but the subtank mini's were just a tad to short. Iv had a few issues with the screen also, what I did was remove the tank and put in a fully charged battery, connected to escribe and re-set factory settings and the issue was cleared.

What did you use to tighten down the top plate please bud ????

 

[binky18]

I used some curved nosed pliers. Each tip went in each hole and I tenderly squeezed the plate down. It's a tight fitting tank that causes the initial problem because the plate unscrews with the tank when you take it off. I found that tightening the plate up cured the problem. Hope this helps??

 

[ej2_sir]

I used some curved nosed pliers. Each tip went in each hole and I tenderly squeezed the plate down. It's a tight fitting tank that causes the initial problem because the plate unscrews with the tank when you take it off. I found that tightening the plate up cured the problem. Hope this helps??

Thanks for your help. Ill coil up a tank when my sanity has returned. It has stopped saying off now, just doesnt seem to be reading true ie temp starts low and struggling to get above 300f... Im using UD 316l... Maybe the wire thats crap and giving me problems?

 

[binky18]

i use the vape mesh company wire off ebay. never had any probs with their Kanthal or SS 316 317L versions. I have to say that once I got the hang of the mods and learned how they work they have been brilliant paired with kanger tanks. I really do recommend a re-set via escribe. also I watched a few utube vids so I could understand how to change settings manually. they are a little tricky to start with because they are so advanced over standard mods but once you pick up on which buttons to press and in which order it all fits into place.. best of luck with it

 

[Arctic_Wolf]

Thanks for your help. Ill coil up a tank when my sanity has returned. It has stopped saying off now, just doesnt seem to be reading true ie temp starts low and struggling to get above 300f... Im using UD 316l... Maybe the wire thats crap and giving me problems?

Tightening 510 plate right down didn't help then bud ??

 

[ej2_sir]

Tightening 510 plate right down didn't help then bud ??

I gave it another go last night and even though tight, I managed to crank a quarter turn on it. Now it seems to be behaving better and ohms seem more stable/realistic. I'm away for a few days but will try a build when I get back and let you know. Once again appreciate everyone's help!

 

[binky18]

re-set factory settings before you fire up the new build then take it from there. hope it works fine for u

 

[spikey1]

Also, if it plays up again, take the removable 510 plate off and clean the threads on the plate and mod (I used vodka as that was all I had). Mine were covered in black shit and doing so seems to have sorted it!