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MTL YFTK Kayfun X

If you're vaping 50/50 juice in the Kayfun X - use a 2.5mm i.d. coil, twist the end of the cotton to a tight point and when you thread it through the coil there should be some resistance - not enough so you drag the coil out of position but enough to pull on it so it moves a little (if you're using skinny wires like 28ga try holding it is position with your thumbnail as it will move easily - you need to pull the cotton, but not drag lol). If it slides through with little to no resistance then that's way too loose - if it drags on the coil and you have to use anything resembling force then that's too tight. Slightly too tight seems to work better than slightly too loose.

When you trim the wick to fit in the juice-well, fluff it if necessary to open up any compacted areas that the scissors may have compressed - BUT DO NOT THIN THE COTTON, just fluff it up. Use either pointy tweezers or the blade of a very small screwdriver to gradually push the ends of the wick into the juice wells. The juice wells should be filled so the end of the cotton touches the bottom and filled completely - if you've wicked a 2.5mm coil so you get the right amount of resistance when you thread it through you will have the right amount to fill the ports.

Take your time priming the cotton - cover the coil and cotton with a light coat of juice, leave for 10 seconds and repeat several times until it the cotton is soaked, take care not to fill the deck under the coil as if any juice gets into the airpin it will gurgle and spit - several light coats of juice on the coil and cotton is better than a big splurge that soaks everything. Fire it and re-apply a bit of juice, do this a couple of times so there is no cotton flavour when you come to vape it. Assemble the tank - only put in about half ml in case you have screwed up but if you've wicked and filled the juice ports tight enough you should be good.
 
Kudos, @Crispycritters , that’s about the best description of how to wick a Kf (not just the X) I’ve seen! It’s not like a lot of other rtas…needs a bit more cotton than most :2thumbsup:

I’ve never experienced leakage from either my X or Lite+ and I wick them very similarly to the instructions above ;)
 
I also got the clone and I love it but when I used the drip tip that come with it made my black blend tobaco taste like sweet and I hate sweet on tobacco so I wonder if it was because of drip tip because when I changed it if was OK or the fact that I am type 1 diabetes
 

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There’s no question that changing the airflow with a more restrictive drip tip can change the flavor profile of your juice. I won’t go deep into the physics, but constricting or opening the airflow changes the pressure and velocity of the vapor. This in turn changes the temperature, and can cause the vapor to condense within the chimney. This changes the characteristics of the flavor.

I use temp control exactly for this reason, I can adjust it to the exact flavor I enjoy ;)
 
I haven't attempted to measure it but the supplied drip tip appears to have the same bore size as the chimney.
 
After some advice, long time Kayfun user, over the years have had a few so thought I would give the X a go even though the tank is on the small side for me. Yesterday an X arrived from china supposedly a YFTK and cannot make it out, the postive post is always loose even when a coil is attached there is a lot of movement, the centre post and the pin that goes into it when tightened gives me no atomiser error, if I untighten it to get a connection to the mod the screw itself is very loose and as a result the ohm's are all over the place, have looked at the original spare parts page dismantled it and all seems in order, my suspicion is the centre post or aerocon pin are not right, anyone come across this ?
 
After some advice, long time Kayfun user, over the years have had a few so thought I would give the X a go even though the tank is on the small side for me. Yesterday an X arrived from china supposedly a YFTK and cannot make it out, the postive post is always loose even when a coil is attached there is a lot of movement, the centre post and the pin that goes into it when tightened gives me no atomiser error, if I untighten it to get a connection to the mod the screw itself is very loose and as a result the ohm's are all over the place, have looked at the original spare parts page dismantled it and all seems in order, my suspicion is the centre post or aerocon pin are not right, anyone come across this ?

The positive post isn't held in place by the pin in the 510 unlike most other atomisers - if you remove the deck from the base and look at the underside of the build deck there is a nut, nip it tight with pliers if you don't have an appropriate sized open spanner and it should tighten the pos pin and resolve the varying resistance problems. Adjusting the Aerokon pin will tighten or loosen the airflow but have no affect whatsoever on tightening the positive post.

Edit - before tightening the nut slide the small black o-ring off to avoid nipping it, don't forget to replace it after tightening the nut or it will piss juice through the 510 into the mod.
 
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The positive post isn't held in place by the pin in the 510 unlike most other atomisers - if you remove the deck from the base and look at the underside of the build deck there is a nut, nip it tight with pliers if you don't have an appropriate sized open spanner and it should tighten the pos pin and resolve the varying resistance problems. Adjusting the Aerokon pin will tighten or loosen the airflow but have no affect whatsoever on tightening the positive post.

Edit - before tightening the nut slide the small black o-ring off to avoid nipping it, don't forget to replace it after tightening the nut or it will piss juice through the 510 into the mod.
Thanks for the information, you mentioned an o ring which was not inserted I am sure when I opened the tank however I did see an o ring the on https://www.svoemesto.de/en/Kayfun-X-spare-parts/35622 which is called no9, is this the one you mean ? Have attached a photo with an o ring I got from the spares bag, not sure if this is the way it should sit ? Not sure what you mean by "- before tightening the nut slide the small black o-ring off to avoid nipping it, don't forget to replace it after tightening the nut or it will piss juice through the 510 into the mod " as there is no O ring where my nut is, with the O ring in place like the picture I sent I can get the post to be secure however without the O ring it still wobbles and nut cannot get in any further.
 

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Not had that problem with mine. Having had it for over a year it has behaved itself very well with one exception, it can sweat quite a bit from the top where you pull it up/slide back to fill, never found out why.
 
Thanks for the information, you mentioned an o ring which was not inserted I am sure when I opened the tank however I did see an o ring the on https://www.svoemesto.de/en/Kayfun-X-spare-parts/35622 which is called no9, is this the one you mean ? Have attached a photo with an o ring I got from the spares bag, not sure if this is the way it should sit ? Not sure what you mean by "- before tightening the nut slide the small black o-ring off to avoid nipping it, don't forget to replace it after tightening the nut or it will piss juice through the 510 into the mod " as there is no O ring where my nut is, with the O ring in place like the picture I sent I can get the post to be secure however without the O ring it still wobbles and nut cannot get in any further.
Sorry bud, last night I couldn't find my KFX so I had a look at the Lite assuming the decks would be the same internally - and unfortunately they aren't.

I've managed to find my KFX and, unlike the Lite, there is NO o-ring on the 510 side of the center post. Sorry for the confusion, it was dumb of me to assume it was the same as the Lite without checking.

I've stripped my KFX to check. Disturbingly - mine has no o-ring number 9. It is just the center post and the white number 10 insulator. When I reassembled the center post held the positive pin firmly - I re-assembled with just the post and insulator, I did not add the missing o'ring. The centre post 'nut' is recessed inside the build deck so you can't get to it when you re-assemble. If you cant screw the center post in enough using finger pressure I'd wrap a bit of cloth around the bottom of the post and try using a bit of force.

That o-ring No 9 looks to me like it should sit in the groove on the center post and not on the insulator as in your pic, I would try to screw in the centre post with just the white insulator - it SHOULD hold the positive firmly in position - if not something is wrong with either the center post or positive.

I gave up on my KFX after less than a month because it gurgled after every fill. I'm not wondering if the fact mine doesn't have a Number 9 o-ring is the cause of the issue.

I'm sorry about me getting confused over the KFL and KFX decks. That sort of dumb shit doesn't help
 
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