SS alien wire headaches

[bidley]

So I thought I'd try some ss alien write for some tc goodness.
I've tried a couple of builds with it in my Griffin 25, but without fail after a few tugs my cuboid starts switching into vw mode. Same happens with the rx200.

Is there a specific technique for building tc coils with silly alien wire? I'm spacing my coils.

 

[andy3434]

So I thought I'd try some ss alien write for some tc goodness.
I've tried a couple of builds with it in my Griffin 25, but without fail after a few tugs my cuboid starts switching into vw mode. Same happens with the rx200.

Is there a specific technique for building tc coils with silly alien wire? I'm spacing my coils.

Best to use different wire for TC, ss is not the most accurate for TC so when you try building fancier coils can cause problems. I use my ss for power mode only now and use NiFe48 from zivpf for TC claptons and it works great, much less trouble than ss and still pretty easy to work with and nice flavour from it.

 

[danb]

without fail after a few tugs my cuboid starts switching into vw mode. Same happens with the rx200.

Is there a specific technique for building tc coils with silly alien wire? I'm spacing my coils.

What's your resistance, I'm guessing pretty low? AFIK if the resistance changes are too small for the mod to handle, it will assume you are using a non-TC wire and switch to VW mode.

 

[E3Nomad]

So I thought I'd try some ss alien write for some tc goodness.
I've tried a couple of builds with it in my Griffin 25, but without fail after a few tugs my cuboid starts switching into vw mode. Same happens with the rx200.

Is there a specific technique for building tc coils with silly alien wire? I'm spacing my coils.

I've noticed that with some TC mods it's not only the change of resistance that triggers a flip to wattage mode, but also the rate of change. Using coils of large mass slows down the rate of change, which seems to be recognised as a characteristic of non-TC wire. I've found that increasing wattage heats the coil faster, thus accelerating the rate of change in resistance to the extent that the coil is recognised as OK for TC.

The other possibility is battery-related, albeit unlikely with the Cuboid and RX200. In single cell TC mods, the switch to wattage may occur if the battery is incapable of delivering current (amperage) high enough to heat the coil to the point were change in resistance is recognised. Could be tired, discharged or fake battery problem.

 

[jayley]

My Cuboid has always been a dick when it comes to ss and tc ..

 

[E3Nomad]

My Cuboid has always been a dick when it comes to ss and tc ..

Interesting … it was my cuboid's switching that first started me thinking about the rate of resistance increase. As long as my builds stay within the mod's (and batteries') amperage limits, I no longer have any problems with SS316. (Bear in mind that that a single clapton of SS316 26/32awg built to 0.2 ohms has a heat flux per Watt of 1.7 mW/mm² so a firing dual coil set-up to a heat flux of around 185 mW/mm² is going to take more than a Cuboid can deliver unless it's upgraded to 200W, and even that's pushing it)

 

[E3Nomad]

I guess I should add to the observations I've made above my recognition that different TC chips are running different algorithms to detect a change in coil resistance. Some are likely to be finicky whilst others do it in their sleep. I've no experience of the DNA chips in this respect and I'd really appreciate some feedback from others who use them.

 

[bidley]

I've found it's very dependant on the build I use and the current phase of the moon (probably).

I tried another build at a slightly higher resistance and seems OK. I'm generally new to TC so I need to keep feeling my way.

 

[fr33sp1r1t]

Recently switched to SS Claptons (26/32 awg 316L) from Ti on my Triade DNA250 . Some observations I have made on the tanks i use - the Smok S2 is a breeze to use, twin spaced coils 8 wraps on a 3mm former, about 0.3 ohms (slightly higher than the 0.2ohm 28awg twisted pair Ti coils i was using), stable coolish vape at 190 to 200ish degrees C. Thought no probs lets try another tank.

Made the same coils for a Smok G2, here the fun started, wouldn't stay in temp mode, coils resistance basically flat-lined in EScribe, I know SS can do power mode so i tried a few vapes, talk about a warm vape (could have cooked eggs on the tank). Tank was also showing a slightly different resistance on test meter from mod while cool!!!. Decided something wrong here. Striped the coil/bottom back off the G2, tightened leads, checked for hotspots/ breaks/touching coils etc. all seemed good, back on mod same weird results. To cut a long story short, after much faffing around I removed the removable deck in the G2 and cleaned the contact point inside it, then rebuilt. Outcome resistance stable, temp works properly, nice clean coolish vape. Moral of this tale - if your having problems in Temp control that worked flawlessly before make sure your tank is thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt properly.

Next adventure is how this build will handle on a Griffin 25+ (should be something similar to the Smok S2 as I don't use the top airflow cap on the Griffin).

 

[Arctic_Wolf]

Recently switched to SS Claptons (26/32 awg 316L) from Ti on my Triade DNA250 . Some observations I have made on the tanks i use - the Smok S2 is a breeze to use, twin spaced coils 8 wraps on a 3mm former, about 0.3 ohms (slightly higher than the 0.2ohm 28awg twisted pair Ti coils i was using), stable coolish vape at 190 to 200ish degrees C. Thought no probs lets try another tank.

Made the same coils for a Smok G2, here the fun started, wouldn't stay in temp mode, coils resistance basically flat-lined in EScribe, I know SS can do power mode so i tried a few vapes, talk about a warm vape (could have cooked eggs on the tank). Tank was also showing a slightly different resistance on test meter from mod while cool!!!. Decided something wrong here. Striped the coil/bottom back off the G2, tightened leads, checked for hotspots/ breaks/touching coils etc. all seemed good, back on mod same weird results. To cut a long story short, after much faffing around I removed the removable deck in the G2 and cleaned the contact point inside it, then rebuilt. Outcome resistance stable, temp works properly, nice clean coolish vape. Moral of this tale - if your having problems in Temp control that worked flawlessly before make sure your tank is thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt properly.

Next adventure is how this build will handle on a Griffin 25+ (should be something similar to the Smok S2 as I don't use the top airflow cap on the Griffin).

Welcome back to POTV .

You definitely need to be quite anal about cleaning all possible contacts to get the best from TC . Keep everything gunk free, shiny and polished and understand the part static resistance can play too . (Very handy read by @danb and others in response here ... https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...threads/tc-accuracy-and-wire-selection.87131/ ).

You've got to love the DNA's and Escribe for troubleshooting problems though . It is a massive help with the device monitor and atty analyser. I've also wasted a fair few hours just plugging in my DNA's with different builds and atties in the device monitor for all sorts of useful info to see exactly what's going on with EVERYTHING . I'm certainly not an engineer or particularly tech minded and never will be lol , but I do like to experiment to come at problems from the experience angle of trying and testing. Just because something didn't work very well doesn't necessarily mean it's an epic fail lol, as lessons are certainly learned .

Hope the Griffin builds worked as you'd hoped . Nice big decks, you could throw an extra wrap in and creep the resistance up a tiny bit too if you haven't tried it yet .